55 hours on BX1870 and overheating

85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
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Bedford - VA
IN a perfect world ............ on a hard working machine, the top of neck of radiator is gonna be 200-220 F.......
210 is ideal, but......

bottom is going to be 100F less or better.
2018-08-16 19.59.01.jpg
2018-08-16 19.59.33.jpg
 
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DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
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After you blow out the radiator with compressed air from the driver's station toward the headlights, then use a mix of 50% water and 50% Simple Green, and spray the radiator with that in the opposite direction that the air flows. The airflow is from the radiator toward the headlights. Flush with lots of water and your radiator should be sparkling clean on the outside. As others have said, also verify the actual temperature because it could be a defective sender or a contact issue. If the radiator thermostat were stuck closed it would overheat in less than 5 minutes. It is either a clogged radiator not flowing air through the fins or it is an electrical issue with the sender and/or the gauge.
 
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Evan Williams II

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BX1870
Mar 27, 2023
16
3
3
SW Pa, USA
After you blow out the radiator with compressed air from the driver's station toward the headlights, then use a mix of 50% water and 50% Simple Green, and spray the radiator with that in the opposite direction that the air flows. The airflow is from the radiator toward the headlights. Flush with lots of water and your radiator should be sparkling clean on the outside. As others have said, also verify the actual temperature because it could be a defective sender or a contact issue. If the radiator thermostat were stuck closed it would overheat in less than 5 minutes. It is either a clogged radiator not flowing air through the fins or it is an electrical issue with the sender and/or the gauge.
Ok, this weekend I will try the cleaning w/ solution, Then test the temp w/ a gun. And yeah, thought that about the stat, as it operates longer then 5 minutes before it gets rising. I get about 15-20 minutes in before it climbs. I can get it operating below high if the PTO is turned off, but there is a problem obviously.
 

tinkerwitheverything

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bx2370-1
Jun 3, 2015
319
72
28
Manitoba
I clean it out often. I know how to service that. It's simple. The mouse nest, it is not due to lack of service. As mentioned, it has only 55 hours on it, and all services needed at that mark, I did. I can clean out the mouse nest on a Monday, park it, and it come Wednesday, they start another, so its not carelessness. maybe I need to put some more rodent killer out. It's just a very wooded area where I park it. Maybe I need to change parking spots as well.
If your cleaning it like your saying then I take back what I said. Guess next would be remove the thermostat install a new one and see what happens. On a side note once you have the old one out test it in hot water to see if it opens this way you'll know for sure it's faulty
 

Evan Williams II

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BX1870
Mar 27, 2023
16
3
3
SW Pa, USA
I
If your cleaning it like your saying then I take back what I said. Guess next would be remove the thermostat install a new one and see what happens. On a side note once you have the old one out test it in hot water to see if it opens this way you'll know for sure it's faulty
had a spare, new Thermostat I installed yesterday. Same result. This weekend, I will test w/ a temp gun, but I know it is running hot, as both hoses, top and bottom are roughly same temp. I think my next step is a rad. flush. I appreciate everyones help so far.
 

85Hokie

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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
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Now you mentioned that you cleaned the radiator ........ as mcfarmall said - did you pull the screen UP and clean it?
 

tinkerwitheverything

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bx2370-1
Jun 3, 2015
319
72
28
Manitoba
I

had a spare, new Thermostat I installed yesterday. Same result. This weekend, I will test w/ a temp gun, but I know it is running hot, as both hoses, top and bottom are roughly same temp. I think my next step is a rad. flush. I appreciate everyones help so far.
Check the old thermostat first and see what it does. Could need a good flush cleaning like you mentioned . I use my tractor lots year round and have never had it go above 2 bars. Even in the winter I slip in a piece of carboard between the rad and the screen with a 4" round opening in the cardboard to get more heat out of the heater and I've never had it go over 2 bars. Of course during the summer season the screen and rad get blown out after every use. I blow back through the rad first and then with the air flow direction .
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,295
4,872
113
North East CT
The problem I believe based on what you have already posted is that your water pump has failed. It hasn't failed in the normal way that most water pumps fail is that the front bearing wears out and they leak from the front. What most people haven't experienced is the impeller has come loose on the shaft and it isn't spinning fully circulating the coolant.
To check my theory, remove the radiator cap and start the engine and observe the coolant moving at the top of the radiator. You should see the coolant moving across the top of the radiator, and if you increase the RPMs the movement should have an effect on the movement of the coolant across the top of the radiator.
 

RCW

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BX2360, FEL, MMM, BX2750D snowblower. 1953 Minneapolis Moline ZAU
Apr 28, 2013
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Chenango County, NY
Evan Williams - you have a different engine, but this is the sending unit on my BX2360. Up front opposite fan. Might be similar. Connector pulls right off.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
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John Reichert

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2021 Kubota L3301 Kubota AT70S Tiller
Jan 16, 2023
6
0
1
Crestwood KY
Evan: After reading what you have tried so far, I would consider checking for a head gasket leak. I read the tractor has 55hours but over the years, the coolant should be changed, every 1 - 2 years. Was it? As the coolant breaks down with AGE, the corrosion inhibitors are gone, leading possibly to rust or engine corrosion around the head gasket. Another question, is the size of the Mower you are pulling with the BX1870 tractor, within the tractor’s limitations? Meaning, if the work load exceeds the design limits you can have an engine problem. Was the tractor ever abused by overloading?
Just another avenue to consider.
John
 

Evan Williams II

New member

Equipment
BX1870
Mar 27, 2023
16
3
3
SW Pa, USA
Evan: After reading what you have tried so far, I would consider checking for a head gasket leak. I read the tractor has 55hours but over the years, the coolant should be changed, every 1 - 2 years. Was it? As the coolant breaks down with AGE, the corrosion inhibitors are gone, leading possibly to rust or engine corrosion around the head gasket. Another question, is the size of the Mower you are pulling with the BX1870 tractor, within the tractor’s limitations? Meaning, if the work load exceeds the design limits you can have an engine problem. Was the tractor ever abused by overloading?
Just another avenue to consider.
John
Thanks for the reply. No, coolant has never been changed. I used an exhaust leak detector, but it came up negative. And the tractor was just used for grass cutting and some light earth moving and has the stock deck. I noticed also some fan belt squealing and I plan on replacing this soon to see if that helps. But back to head gasket leak, I know in an auto, the signs of that are a odd oil color and white smoke in exhaust, does the same apply here?
 

John Reichert

New member

Equipment
2021 Kubota L3301 Kubota AT70S Tiller
Jan 16, 2023
6
0
1
Crestwood KY
Thanks for the reply. No, coolant has never been changed. I used an exhaust leak detector, but it came up negative. And the tractor was just used for grass cutting and some light earth moving and has the stock deck. I noticed also some fan belt squealing and I plan on replacing this soon to see if that helps. But back to head gasket leak, I know in an auto, the signs of that are a odd oil color and white smoke in exhaust, does the same apply here?
 

John Reichert

New member

Equipment
2021 Kubota L3301 Kubota AT70S Tiller
Jan 16, 2023
6
0
1
Crestwood KY
Evan: The reason I mentioned the possibility of head gasket leak is because of my issues with a 1984 FORD, 1710 tractor. The following is my experience. The 1710 has a 3 cylinder diesel engine of about 23.5 horse power and a standard transmission. When purchased, the tractor was used, with about 60 hours. I purchased it along with a 60” finish mower, 60” rotary cutter and a 5’ grading blade for snow removal from the former owner of the property. This was my first diesel and of a tractor larger than a typical lawn mower and presumably my insignificant expertise was similar to the seller of the1710. He explained to me at the time that he had purchased two smaller machines which were inadequate for the tasks required on the property. One of the smaller tractors had rolled over, so he bought the 1710 with the accessories listed above. The 1710 did not have ROPS.

From almost the beginning of my 30+ years of owner ship, the 1710 tractor would belch coolant out the overflow tube on hot day while I cut 5 acres of pasture grass and associated weeds. I have some steep hills on the property. If I cut a fairly level section of pasture, there usually wasn’t an overheating problem. There was never a problem if the tractor was just idling or driving a post hole digger. Over the years I replaced, the radiator, thermostat, all hoses, water pump, tried several radiator caps and kept the radiator screen clean. I can honestly say that neither of these attempts to fix the problem worked or seemed to solve or even improve the cooling.

I came to suspect there was a cracked head or a leaking head gasket, but with the few inexpensive tools (dyes in the coolant or bubbles from exhaust) I just couldn’t confirm a head or gasket problem. There were never any leaks from the block, head, radiator or water pump. I went to the local dealer for advice. I didn’t have the ability to remove the head to check for myself to confirm the head was the problem. I was left with having the tractor hauled to the dealer, have the head removed, x-rayed for cracked, etc. $$$. That would be a lot of money for an inspection if the problem wasn’t a leaking head gasket.

So, I used the tractor for years and religiously checked the coolant before and after use along with keeping an eye on the coolant temperature when using the 1710. A gallon of anti-freeze mixed 50/50 would last me at least a year. That approach lasted until the spring of 2022. Last Spring while I was cutting a field, the coolant came gushing out of the radiator overflow tube. I let the tractor cool down and refilled the radiator. Same thing happened again but now just idling. The tractor was hauled to the dealer for the inspection I had put off years ago. The verdict was a head with several cracks. All attempts to weld the head or find a used head were unsuccessful. The 1710 with about 1,040 hours was sold for scrap metal. It served me well.

So, in late summer I became the proud owner of a brand-new Kubota L3301 with a standard transmission. I did some research before the new purchase. I suspected that maybe the 23 hp. 1710 was undersized for the hills in my pasture which may have contributed to the head cracking. I may have bought a bigger engine and tractor then is necessary. But I am very pleased with the handling and stability on the hills. Having the ROPS on the new Kubota was a selling point to my wife. My Kubota is used for pulling a 545 #, Land Pride 3 spindle, Grooming Mower, Model FD2560. I have been very impressed with the finish cut. Unlike the 1984 Ford I710, the L3301 climbs the hills pulling the Land Pride mower with little effort or engine laboring. This spring, the mower is slicing through the grass and I am sure the job isn’t taking as long as before the new purchase. The new tractor has less than 30 hours.

Evan, I wish you success and do hope my experience may be of some help in your trouble shooting. I spent many hours frustrated over the problem with my old Ford 1710.
 

Evan Williams II

New member

Equipment
BX1870
Mar 27, 2023
16
3
3
SW Pa, USA
Evan: The reason I mentioned the possibility of head gasket leak is because of my issues with a 1984 FORD, 1710 tractor. The following is my experience. The 1710 has a 3 cylinder diesel engine of about 23.5 horse power and a standard transmission. When purchased, the tractor was used, with about 60 hours. I purchased it along with a 60” finish mower, 60” rotary cutter and a 5’ grading blade for snow removal from the former owner of the property. This was my first diesel and of a tractor larger than a typical lawn mower and presumably my insignificant expertise was similar to the seller of the1710. He explained to me at the time that he had purchased two smaller machines which were inadequate for the tasks required on the property. One of the smaller tractors had rolled over, so he bought the 1710 with the accessories listed above. The 1710 did not have ROPS.

From almost the beginning of my 30+ years of owner ship, the 1710 tractor would belch coolant out the overflow tube on hot day while I cut 5 acres of pasture grass and associated weeds. I have some steep hills on the property. If I cut a fairly level section of pasture, there usually wasn’t an overheating problem. There was never a problem if the tractor was just idling or driving a post hole digger. Over the years I replaced, the radiator, thermostat, all hoses, water pump, tried several radiator caps and kept the radiator screen clean. I can honestly say that neither of these attempts to fix the problem worked or seemed to solve or even improve the cooling.

I came to suspect there was a cracked head or a leaking head gasket, but with the few inexpensive tools (dyes in the coolant or bubbles from exhaust) I just couldn’t confirm a head or gasket problem. There were never any leaks from the block, head, radiator or water pump. I went to the local dealer for advice. I didn’t have the ability to remove the head to check for myself to confirm the head was the problem. I was left with having the tractor hauled to the dealer, have the head removed, x-rayed for cracked, etc. $$$. That would be a lot of money for an inspection if the problem wasn’t a leaking head gasket.

So, I used the tractor for years and religiously checked the coolant before and after use along with keeping an eye on the coolant temperature when using the 1710. A gallon of anti-freeze mixed 50/50 would last me at least a year. That approach lasted until the spring of 2022. Last Spring while I was cutting a field, the coolant came gushing out of the radiator overflow tube. I let the tractor cool down and refilled the radiator. Same thing happened again but now just idling. The tractor was hauled to the dealer for the inspection I had put off years ago. The verdict was a head with several cracks. All attempts to weld the head or find a used head were unsuccessful. The 1710 with about 1,040 hours was sold for scrap metal. It served me well.

So, in late summer I became the proud owner of a brand-new Kubota L3301 with a standard transmission. I did some research before the new purchase. I suspected that maybe the 23 hp. 1710 was undersized for the hills in my pasture which may have contributed to the head cracking. I may have bought a bigger engine and tractor then is necessary. But I am very pleased with the handling and stability on the hills. Having the ROPS on the new Kubota was a selling point to my wife. My Kubota is used for pulling a 545 #, Land Pride 3 spindle, Grooming Mower, Model FD2560. I have been very impressed with the finish cut. Unlike the 1984 Ford I710, the L3301 climbs the hills pulling the Land Pride mower with little effort or engine laboring. This spring, the mower is slicing through the grass and I am sure the job isn’t taking as long as before the new purchase. The new tractor has less than 30 hours.

Evan, I wish you success and do hope my experience may be of some help in your trouble shooting. I spent many hours frustrated over the problem with my old Ford 1710.

Thank you for your concern. My father bought new and still has a 1980 Ford 1700 series. I thought it was a cool little tractor both then and now still. The Kubota just seems t have a ghost in the machine, as it is really "young". I'm hoping the fan bely is the issue, after that, I will try flushing....after that, im baffled, and it will have to go in...
 

DustyRusty

Well-known member

Equipment
2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,295
4,872
113
North East CT
Have you tried washing the radiator as I suggest in a previous post? If you make the fan belt too tight it will cause you additional problems with the alternator having a failed front bearing, and the water pump bearing going bad. That is the reason that the fan belt has a deflection in it when properly installed. Just because the fan belt is turning the water pump doesn't mean that the water pump is working as intended. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and allow the engine to come up to operational temperature, about 2 or 3 bars on the temperature gauge. Then have a helper increase the RPM of the engine, and looking into the neck of the radiator where the cap is installed, see if you can see the coolant circulating. If the coolant can be seen circulating then the water pump is OK. Then allow the engine to continue at the higher RPM and see if the temperature of the engine increases. Look at your watch to determine how long the engine has been running. If it has been running at the higher RPM for more than 15 minutes and has climbed up to 4 bars, then I would suspect the thermostat is defective or the radiator cooling fins are still clogged with dirt.
This is the same thing that happens to the outside condensing units of home air conditioning units, and why the compressors keep starting and stopping when the overpressure switch kicks in. The solution to fix the problem is the same as with your tractor, clean the radiator or as it is called in an air conditioner, clean the condenser.
This shouldn't be a continual issue that you are dealing with, and I don't see this as an unsolvable issue.
 
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