85Hokie
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Ok, this weekend I will try the cleaning w/ solution, Then test the temp w/ a gun. And yeah, thought that about the stat, as it operates longer then 5 minutes before it gets rising. I get about 15-20 minutes in before it climbs. I can get it operating below high if the PTO is turned off, but there is a problem obviously.After you blow out the radiator with compressed air from the driver's station toward the headlights, then use a mix of 50% water and 50% Simple Green, and spray the radiator with that in the opposite direction that the air flows. The airflow is from the radiator toward the headlights. Flush with lots of water and your radiator should be sparkling clean on the outside. As others have said, also verify the actual temperature because it could be a defective sender or a contact issue. If the radiator thermostat were stuck closed it would overheat in less than 5 minutes. It is either a clogged radiator not flowing air through the fins or it is an electrical issue with the sender and/or the gauge.
If your cleaning it like your saying then I take back what I said. Guess next would be remove the thermostat install a new one and see what happens. On a side note once you have the old one out test it in hot water to see if it opens this way you'll know for sure it's faultyI clean it out often. I know how to service that. It's simple. The mouse nest, it is not due to lack of service. As mentioned, it has only 55 hours on it, and all services needed at that mark, I did. I can clean out the mouse nest on a Monday, park it, and it come Wednesday, they start another, so its not carelessness. maybe I need to put some more rodent killer out. It's just a very wooded area where I park it. Maybe I need to change parking spots as well.
had a spare, new Thermostat I installed yesterday. Same result. This weekend, I will test w/ a temp gun, but I know it is running hot, as both hoses, top and bottom are roughly same temp. I think my next step is a rad. flush. I appreciate everyones help so far.If your cleaning it like your saying then I take back what I said. Guess next would be remove the thermostat install a new one and see what happens. On a side note once you have the old one out test it in hot water to see if it opens this way you'll know for sure it's faulty
Check the old thermostat first and see what it does. Could need a good flush cleaning like you mentioned . I use my tractor lots year round and have never had it go above 2 bars. Even in the winter I slip in a piece of carboard between the rad and the screen with a 4" round opening in the cardboard to get more heat out of the heater and I've never had it go over 2 bars. Of course during the summer season the screen and rad get blown out after every use. I blow back through the rad first and then with the air flow direction .I
had a spare, new Thermostat I installed yesterday. Same result. This weekend, I will test w/ a temp gun, but I know it is running hot, as both hoses, top and bottom are roughly same temp. I think my next step is a rad. flush. I appreciate everyones help so far.
Most definitely. I do that like once every week or so.Now you mentioned that you cleaned the radiator ........ as mcfarmall said - did you pull the screen UP and clean it?
ok - cool, just checking on the little thingsMost definitely. I do that like once every week or so.
Thanks for the reply. No, coolant has never been changed. I used an exhaust leak detector, but it came up negative. And the tractor was just used for grass cutting and some light earth moving and has the stock deck. I noticed also some fan belt squealing and I plan on replacing this soon to see if that helps. But back to head gasket leak, I know in an auto, the signs of that are a odd oil color and white smoke in exhaust, does the same apply here?Evan: After reading what you have tried so far, I would consider checking for a head gasket leak. I read the tractor has 55hours but over the years, the coolant should be changed, every 1 - 2 years. Was it? As the coolant breaks down with AGE, the corrosion inhibitors are gone, leading possibly to rust or engine corrosion around the head gasket. Another question, is the size of the Mower you are pulling with the BX1870 tractor, within the tractor’s limitations? Meaning, if the work load exceeds the design limits you can have an engine problem. Was the tractor ever abused by overloading?
Just another avenue to consider.
John
Thanks for the reply. No, coolant has never been changed. I used an exhaust leak detector, but it came up negative. And the tractor was just used for grass cutting and some light earth moving and has the stock deck. I noticed also some fan belt squealing and I plan on replacing this soon to see if that helps. But back to head gasket leak, I know in an auto, the signs of that are a odd oil color and white smoke in exhaust, does the same apply here?
Evan: The reason I mentioned the possibility of head gasket leak is because of my issues with a 1984 FORD, 1710 tractor. The following is my experience. The 1710 has a 3 cylinder diesel engine of about 23.5 horse power and a standard transmission. When purchased, the tractor was used, with about 60 hours. I purchased it along with a 60” finish mower, 60” rotary cutter and a 5’ grading blade for snow removal from the former owner of the property. This was my first diesel and of a tractor larger than a typical lawn mower and presumably my insignificant expertise was similar to the seller of the1710. He explained to me at the time that he had purchased two smaller machines which were inadequate for the tasks required on the property. One of the smaller tractors had rolled over, so he bought the 1710 with the accessories listed above. The 1710 did not have ROPS.
From almost the beginning of my 30+ years of owner ship, the 1710 tractor would belch coolant out the overflow tube on hot day while I cut 5 acres of pasture grass and associated weeds. I have some steep hills on the property. If I cut a fairly level section of pasture, there usually wasn’t an overheating problem. There was never a problem if the tractor was just idling or driving a post hole digger. Over the years I replaced, the radiator, thermostat, all hoses, water pump, tried several radiator caps and kept the radiator screen clean. I can honestly say that neither of these attempts to fix the problem worked or seemed to solve or even improve the cooling.
I came to suspect there was a cracked head or a leaking head gasket, but with the few inexpensive tools (dyes in the coolant or bubbles from exhaust) I just couldn’t confirm a head or gasket problem. There were never any leaks from the block, head, radiator or water pump. I went to the local dealer for advice. I didn’t have the ability to remove the head to check for myself to confirm the head was the problem. I was left with having the tractor hauled to the dealer, have the head removed, x-rayed for cracked, etc. $$$. That would be a lot of money for an inspection if the problem wasn’t a leaking head gasket.
So, I used the tractor for years and religiously checked the coolant before and after use along with keeping an eye on the coolant temperature when using the 1710. A gallon of anti-freeze mixed 50/50 would last me at least a year. That approach lasted until the spring of 2022. Last Spring while I was cutting a field, the coolant came gushing out of the radiator overflow tube. I let the tractor cool down and refilled the radiator. Same thing happened again but now just idling. The tractor was hauled to the dealer for the inspection I had put off years ago. The verdict was a head with several cracks. All attempts to weld the head or find a used head were unsuccessful. The 1710 with about 1,040 hours was sold for scrap metal. It served me well.
So, in late summer I became the proud owner of a brand-new Kubota L3301 with a standard transmission. I did some research before the new purchase. I suspected that maybe the 23 hp. 1710 was undersized for the hills in my pasture which may have contributed to the head cracking. I may have bought a bigger engine and tractor then is necessary. But I am very pleased with the handling and stability on the hills. Having the ROPS on the new Kubota was a selling point to my wife. My Kubota is used for pulling a 545 #, Land Pride 3 spindle, Grooming Mower, Model FD2560. I have been very impressed with the finish cut. Unlike the 1984 Ford I710, the L3301 climbs the hills pulling the Land Pride mower with little effort or engine laboring. This spring, the mower is slicing through the grass and I am sure the job isn’t taking as long as before the new purchase. The new tractor has less than 30 hours.
Evan, I wish you success and do hope my experience may be of some help in your trouble shooting. I spent many hours frustrated over the problem with my old Ford 1710.
Ya, but it does need changing, so it can't hurt. It turns the water pump too, I believe, so that was my line of thought.If the fan is spinning, I can't see it being the fan belt as your problem.