Search results

It's time for you to visit your local dealer or Messicks online and order a set of manuals and start taking things apart.

Are the front tires spinning? You should be able to figure it out pretty easily. Put the tractor in 4wd. Then jack up one front tire and see if you can rotate that tire by hand while the other 3 are sitting on the ground. It should be locked in. Then repeat for the other side.

Run it whatever RPM you are comfortable with. Your backhoe should be just as strong, but it will move faster with higher RPM. Same with your loader. Increase the RPM as you become more proficient at digging smoothly with the backhoe. The only impliment I care about RPM much is my mower, and...

I wouldn't worry about it one bit. Backhoe work is pretty easy on the tractor engine, just a steady RPM and light variable load.

Glad to hear you got it fixed. I would have replied sooner but I have a heck of a time logging into this site sometimes.

Great write up so far. Thanks for taking the time to do such a thorough job. I have an L245DT of similar vintage. My dash looks the same as yours. The only idiot lights on mine are the charge and oil lights within the tach. I think one of the holes in the dash is for a compression release...

I bought my forks off of Craig's List for $150, they are Rankin brand.

Even light duty forks will be stronger than what your loader will lift. I'm about 90% done with my new house, and I've used my forks for exactly the same. Unloaded pallets with tile and my wood stove, moved tons of lumber and debris, they are incredibly handy.

Hard to say. My tractor will drip a bit from the overflow after working hard for a while. Fluids expand when heated, air much more so. Maybe you still had some air? Seems pretty normal to me to burp a bit. Caps are spring loaded to limit the pressure for a reason. Most vehicles have catch...

The vent on mine is under the seat, points out to the left. It's a curved piece of tubing maybe 3" long, sort of a question mark shape. It was threaded into the case. I broke mine off trying to get it out so I chased the threads with a standard 1/8 NPT and used regular pipe fittings to make a...

I'll try to get you some one of these days. If you do a Google images search for L245DT you'll find a lot of pics on the web where the loader subframe rear arms that go from the middle to rear axle are clearly shown.

I'd bet on either a fuel level/obstruction/debris/water problem if you're sure a safety switch isn't at fault. No way a bucket of dirt should bog down your tractor. If I couldn't back up out of a hole with a loaded bucket I'd be in trouble. I've had to winch my tractor out backwards while it...

I would suggest you check the fluid level and the transmission vent. Mine was doing that for a while till I found that the vent was plugged. Seems to have taken care of it since I figured that out.

The cap on top of the transmission is the fill plug. On the side of the trans near the clutch pedal is the level plug, fill till it leaks out there. The trans and hydraulics are a shared fluid setup. The screen is on the left side at the bottom, opposite of where the suction line comes in on...

How sure are you that it actually needs to come apart? What diagnostic work did you do to decide the motor needed rebuilt? This started as a head gasket and an oil leak didn't it?

I use additives in my diesel pickup and Kubota. Mainly 2 stroke oil or Diesel Kleen. Lubricity is my main concern. Diesel fuel isn't what it used to be. If I can add a few dollars worth of anything that improves lubricity and reduces wear then it's a very small price to pay in my opinion...

Sounds like you had a hole and they plugged it. When the pressure drops, it jumps off the bead.

BC, let's see some pics of the 378 and maybe some of your other bucks and bulls. My eyes go right past the tractor to the racks in your shop.

Unless something major happens, there is little to no metal to metal contact and these things are easily rebuilt by replacing the plastic and rubber parts only. Call your dealer and ask about a rebuild kit. I've done one on my loader and one on my backhoe and both were pretty reasonable, maybe...

You might try your local Napa for a can of bead sealer. It's similar to rubber cement. If you clean your wheel and tire beads with a wire wheel and laquer thinner first you should prevent the tire and bead from slipping in the future.