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Oh, that was bad... :o

And I don't think you need to run it straight.

Sadly, that's not my shop. I've got a good sized shop, but not that open. Mine's jam full of machines of all descriptions from fabrication to machining to woodwork, and not counting material and half finished projects. I also don't have enough head room for an indoor lift, so mine is outside.

No that I get, thanks for elaborating. I didn't think about sitting on the tires and no safety stops, which are needed just as they are for a 4 post drive on lift. I was looking at it from the frame of mind I was pondering regarding my frame fixture, and didn't consider that it's now setting...

Care to explain why? Looks like the arms are under the tires, which is as stable as it gets (and I don't recall seeing tractors easily tipped by hand). And lift is nowhere near capacity. Assuming pads are properly engaged and arms locked, I don't see a problem. I love the way engineers just...

This is making me queasy. My not quite 2 year old grandson (and mom, my daughter) is coming to stay for a month in a few weeks. Gotta be extra double careful around the little buggers.

I know you weren't talking about my shop, but where do you think I got my handle? I'm always in the dog house, so the moniker first surfaced as my CB handle back in the days of CB (don't say it!)

Looks like he built a roll-on pallet so that his 2 post works more like a 4 post in that it supports via the tire contact surface. I was pondering how I could support mine with a custom sub-frame without sitting on the tires (and still keep it wide enough to be stable), but it's not a trivial...

There are many types of bronze, some so hard and tough they cause the hard steel pin to become the wear item. So that's not necessarily an issue assuming the right alloy is selected for making a bushing so that it's either sacrificial, or not.

Building a fixture to lock it in only helps so far. You put a lot of heat in, it's gonna warp when you release it. Not so bad if it were not restrained, but still warp, and I'll bet that's what this is. Quality fabrication requires that you either put together a plan to keep it within limits...

Good point. A rosette weld directly behind the pin would provide a much stronger joint.

I think he's missing 11, which preventing the arms (10) from moving in and out. If that is combined with turnbuckles that don't rotate as you suggest, then the turn buckles try to force the arms out going up, but that binds up the rigid double shear mounts which fight to keep the lower arms...

Sorry, scanning through, missed that.

You could also put a bar in front above the pins. It will press on the back of the restraining bar as it pushed into the existing backer bar as a fulcrum. Bottom is better since it shortens the lever, but taking the load off the pins (and flanges) is the most important goal. You just have to...

I have no idea if this applies to this head, but even if the head cylinder chamber shape is the same, chamber volumes can change quite a bit and still look the same. If the new head has a larger cylinder chamber volume, that would drop your compression. Again, no idea if that is relevant here...

Russell's last link shows the swivel joints on top just like mine. I just noticed that both sides of yours are adjustable. To start with, that's not normal and likely indicates some swapping. They also appear somewhat heavy for the tractor, and the bottom looks to have been cut off and...

I don't think so. Looks to me like your just missing the upper end of that swivel. And mine are sort of cocked on the bottom allowing the main lift bars to remain vertical when angled out. But how you approach it is up to you and your resources.

Looks to me like those lift arms are possibly from another tractor, and missing the upper swivels. Here is a pic of mine for reference.

Very true. Funny story. When I took my CCW years ago, the last part was the practical test at the range. Everyone had to bring their own gun, and there were maybe 4 classes there, over 30 people. Started out setting around as the instructors came around for the final stuff, checking weapons...

I'm with you. I don't care for the look or feel of the Glocks I've shot. But I love my Ruger SR! Other than that one exception, I'm a wheel gun guy, also Ruger. My favorites are the 6" GP100 when I can wear a shoulder holster, and a 2" SP101 when I can't, both in 357 mag.