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You also need to use common sense with the whole ordeal, including dr’s orders. My 82yo lawnmower pushing mother had a hip done last January. All went well but she was told to leave the dressing on for six weeks and it would be removed at her follow up visit by the doctor. The dressing started...

Or you can put this in the hydraulic oil but you’ll need a uv light and glasses to see it. Probably easier and less costly to just replace the seal as NIW said...

I missed this part…. Then I must agree with this

And possibly a broken radiator neck! Safest way is to gently use a cotter pin puller along with dish detergent or rub-r-lube.

Click on the envelope in the upper right corner and send 007Kubotoguy a private message. He has helped many of our members with parts.

I’d also check the input shaft for runout, along with pilot bearing to input shaft fit. Something is not right with those kind of multiple failures.

I just bought 6 cases of -20 for the shop @ $3.00 gal. at Auto Zone on sale last week. Best price I’ve seen since ”the election”. Two years ago I was paying $1.29 gal. It makes beet juice worth it now. Ive been looking for a LR wheel for my L3650 due to PO’s calcium use.

Exactly.. Scrap steel, scrap rubber, and a couple of hours of work with a band saw & drill press. Who cares if they’re powder coated ???

Sheesh ….. doesn’t anyone make anything anymore?

My thoughts exactly….. More information is definitely needed. Exactly where are the plumes coming from? White smoke from the exhaust is a completely different issue than blow-by from the breather, as is (the possibility of) low oil pressure.

I answered my own question. Your tractor is a grey market tractor and isn’t recognized by US dealers or parts manuals. There may or may not be a US market cross model. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/ultimate-gray-market-must-read.20178/

It’s possible your problem is as simple as this. You won’t know until you at least pull the cover. Not sure what parts availability is like for this model. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/b7100-stalls-on-clutch-release-wont-roll-in-neutral.54097/#post-497223

Drill a 1/8” hole in the collar. Install a sheet metal or self tapping screw in a slide hammer puller should do it. You may be able to grab the outer collar with a hook adapter from a puller also. From the Messicks parts site…..

Your question was answered previously….. We’re all trying to help you here. The many videos on YouTube are short and to the point. As crazy as this sounds, I actually found a bad ground on an Infinity between the engine and trans with a voltage drop test. Multiple trips to the dealer couldn’t...

Plenty of YouTube videos on this… The test is always the same … just a matter of where you test the circuit. Test must be done under a load. If your problem is from the the ignition switch to the starter, that’s where you test. You also need to test for voltage drop from battery to the ignition...

You’re causing more confusion by calling a solenoid a relay. Relays are not built into starters. Relays have been added to many starting circuits because the wiring, switches, opc, etc. can’t supply enough current to operate the magnet in the solenoid on the starter. Completely agree on the...

I cannot confirm size…. but once the handle is flipped up to the released position, the bolts are no longer loaded.

Mine was ugly when I got it…. https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/the-crooked-fel-kubotas.31558/post-262687

If it turns out you need a shutdown relay after your diagnosis, check this out… https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/l3650-shutdown-timer-t0070-31410.45758/