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Yes sir, there was a snap ring prior to castle nut. Do I simply remove the castle nut?

Helping my neighbor with bearing replacement. Who can offer advice on removal of tiller shaft?

Try reversing just 1 pin. That's what I've done with tiller.

Here's the light with bracket.

The ones on the rear are made by Grote. It's a standard light assembly. Your local parts store will carry them.

Search for my post L1801 custom tires. Shows you an idea for custom tires.

View from the inside. Made a mistake though...you pop the headlights out then use nut bolt to secure the rubber boot. Then you put the light back in.

My front hood, and dash shakes like a fat hooker on a cold night. Perhaps a couple well places bungie cords will eat up some of the wiggle. Regarding head lights: Go buy a pair of the rubber headlights with the metal brackets, $10 each. Chop off the bracket and drill a hole for the wires to...

I have multiple bolts as well on a similar machine, L1801. I'm confident they are strictly for the build process.

Agree 100%. Often enough it's the same 3 fixes.

Meanjean: I find photos taken with iphone are more likely to flip. If the volume buttons are down to the left, then the photo usually comes out correctly. Was something i had trouble with, And havent since i discovered this. Good call. Took my last pic as suggested and it's good.

Do you have a rear axel to attach to?

It sure looks that way.

Thanks for the tip.

The pics are sideways but you get the idea. As others suggested run steel from the front towers to the real axel. I can provide additional pics if you like. Email me here at: Meanjeandj@icloud.com

It's making me load these buggers one at a time and they're coming out sideways!

Hopefully the pic comes thru

Happy to hear it worked out for you.

Did you check the connections at the starter?

The engine stop knob you mentioned, is it actually the decompression lever? Don't want to use that for turning off a tractor.