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Thanks Russell I have that parts manual. My friend JohnDB helps me out a lot and he found this link from a USA mower shop that mentions the superseded number https://www.m-and-d.com/KUB-04810-00150.html My thoughts are the oring is compressed inward toward the outer edge of the groove it sits...

I live in Australia and I got sent the wrong three orings for the gear case cover for the M4500DT. These are the ones that feed from the oil pump and back through the block to lubricate crank and cam. The gear case has circular channels cut out to fit the orings in. The first ones sent were...

Thanks guys that's a relief. $600 saved

I have replaced worn piston rings and rod bearings in s2600 engine Kubota M4500DT. No knowledge of the previous life of the tractor but when I got it the oil hadn't been changed for a long time. I read if under the crown is black then it would have been overheated. Photo under crown is a lacquer...

Thanks Paul I will take note of that. There is very little contaminant I found in the sump oil filter etc so maybe just keep up the oil changes is a good idea. There obviously has been some contamination over the years so I will clean where I can without trying to run anything through the crank...

This ridge is not half way down the cylinder. It is only 5/16"-3/8" down the cylinder where the top compression ring has been at its maximum height at TDC. Its common for an old engine to wear a thin ridge around this area as the bore wears. There is what is called a ridge removal tool which...

Yes I see you have a BMW high performance engine which would have very little tolerances. The bearing oil clearance tolerances on these are .00138- .00366 with wearable limit up to .0079" so up to 4 thou over. These are an old push-rod tappet diesel engine which often can run for years even with...

This is the scored one and wear on the combustion force end. All other 6 like this. 40 years of wear. I wouldn't think mains would be as bad because they rotate and don't have to stand explosive forces. I am no scientific engineer but I reason the mains would be no where near perfect but...

Do you have any conclusions what I could be doing wrong and why I might to have to do everything again? It is very expensive and very time consuming to completely recondition an old tractor like this. I am spending about $1000 on needed parts. Complete reconditioning would cost over $3000 and a...

I have a workshop manual and the measurements are within tolerances.

I have the engine stripped, pistons out, cam shaft out but the mains are left in because the engine is still on the tractor and it is staying there. I don’t want to go as far as remove the block. I am hoping the mains are okay, the rod bearings have some wear and some contaminant scoring, they...

Thanks. Bush number superseded 15221-21980 with 15221-21982. Still pre-sized, press in and use?

My wrist pins on M4500DT S2600 engine have some have some play at the end when in the rod bushes. They measure within ½ wear allowances of what the manual says which I think is a bit much .15mm .0059” is the specs attached diagram allowance. There is some slight wiggle at the end of the pins in...

It did have some pink looking compound on the washer but it wasn't rock hard. The washer claw was not on the washer when I first looked at it. I think someone had sheared it putting it on. I could see the missing piece when the bolt was free. Possibly someone had sheared it putting it on or put...

P.S. Forgot to add this is a right hand thread if anyone wants to know

To Clear this thread. Thanks for the starter idea but I think this was too tight even for that. Sheared half inch drives, some hardened steel until I didn't want to ruin any more tools. Before I fixed the pulley solid it was still moving tractor even in high gear with handbrake on and chain and...

Surely its not 1100 foot pounds tight, so I cant see why it wouldn't work even with half inch drive. I have never used one but sometimes the car tire guys go a bit tight with them and you need a bar on the wheel brace to fix a flat.

No need to apologize Woodsy, everyone trying to help here. Thanks I will get it or snap it, I am a stubborn old mule. Then drilling and easy out and tapping. I don't want to go there hopefully. I think if it did snap the threaded part would come out easier. I think it seized on that giant washer.

Not so dumb, I wasn't sure so I went clockwise as well because sometimes tightening can free a bolt. It was still tough if it is left hand, I will research to make sure but cant find anything so far, so I assume its right hand. Wolfman commented on someone else that had so much trouble he almost...