Tight front crankshaft fan drive pulley bolt M4500DT

[kubotafreak]

Fish farmer,
Little shade tree, but the starter will break that crank nut for you. Usually place the breaker bar against the frame. Briefly engage starter. Just make sure the safety tabs are bent flat, and try to position the breaker so it wont fall off. Works if you don't have an impact, or space to use one.

 

[GeoHorn]

Fish farmer,
Little shade tree, but the starter will break that crank nut for you. Usually place the breaker bar against the frame. Briefly engage starter. Just make sure the safety tabs are bent flat, and try to position the breaker so it wont fall off. Works if you don't have an impact, or space to use one.

That’s thinking outside the box… but if the fastener is Right-hand…. that suggestion will only work if the engine rotates Counter-clockwise (from the drivers seat view).

 

[kubotafreak]

That’s thinking outside the box… but if the fastener is Right-hand…. that suggestion will only work if the engine rotates Counter-clockwise (from the drivers seat view).

I know kubota does that with some of the rider mowers, but the tractors are conventional setup so crank pully up front. Counterclockwise from seat. But it would still work on the other style. In both configurations the natural rotation is the same(clockwise from crank snout). Fastner will be conventional. It will have an arrow or groove to indicate otherwise.

 

[GeoHorn]

I have a BETSTCO finish mower that has counter-clockwise blades (when viewed from beneath)…which has UNmarked 14mm LEFT-Hand bolts which attach the blades….. completely opposite one might expect with that rotation. They often come loose as the result and I will probably have to make some sort of “tab”-washer to stop that silliness.

There was no warning in the owner manual so I tried to remove a blade when a spindle-bearing froze after only a couple hours operations. The company was very responsive and sent me a new spindle as well as a pair of new belts and a spare blade…(although I didn’t ask them for either of that)… I’m not complaining about the company …. I’m just whining about no indication those were left-hand threaded bolts…

…so when I tried to replace the failed spindle and couldn’t get that bolt off that blade…I grabbed my 1/2” impact and… promptly snapped that iron bolt.

The reason I felt so sheety about it was because it was a bolt with a 24mm head…and 14mm L.H.-threads…50mm long.… Have you ever tried to find one of those? …on a Saturday..??
I went to Fastenal and they would be happy to sell me some exact replacements….only $4 each…. in a bag of One-Hundred Grrr…

Amazon sold me a pair for only $4…delivered in 24 hrs….. only problem being they were 3” long… no biggie…

Anyway…. point is…not all L.H. Fasteners are properly marked or noted in WSM/Owner Manuals…and the rotation of the item may not be correctly-engineered either.

 

[Fishfarmer]

To Clear this thread. Thanks for the starter idea but I think this was too tight even for that. Sheared half inch drives, some hardened steel until I didn't want to ruin any more tools. Before I fixed the pulley solid it was still moving tractor even in high gear with handbrake on and chain and rubber grip around the pulley. So tight. Black socket is a hardened beauty but only 1/2 inch drive, so it kept snapping bars. 3/4 drive would have worked which I didn't have. Grind the socket because the pipe wrench would not grip. Six foot breaker bar and metal boxing bolted to pulley so it could not turn. Some emery paper on pipe wrench also. I didnt think it would work but it did. " Dont try this at home" brace yourself goggles on, lots of BF&i

 

[Dave_eng]

I do not think anyone has suggested a torque multiplier wrench.
They are cheap and develop a phenomenal amount of torque.
For someone without an air or battery impact wrench they get the job done.

Torque multiplier

Models selling for less than $100.

Dave

 

[Fishfarmer]

To Clear this thread. Thanks for the starter idea but I think this was too tight even for that. Sheared half inch drives, some hardened steel until I didn't want to ruin any more tools. Before I fixed the pulley solid it was still moving tractor even in high gear with handbrake on and chain and rubber grip around the pulley. So tight. Black socket is a hardened beauty but only 1/2 inch drive, so it kept snapping bars. 3/4 drive would have worked which I didn't have. Grind the socket because the pipe wrench would not grip. Six foot breaker bar and metal boxing bolted to pulley so it could not turn. Some emery paper on pipe wrench also. I didnt think it would work but it did. " Dont try this at home" brace yourself goggles on, lots of BF&i

P.S. Forgot to add this is a right hand thread if anyone wants to know

 

[kubotafreak]

P.S. Forgot to add this is a right hand thread if anyone wants to know

Quite impressed it was on that tight. You would have thought the threads, or nut would have given up at that amount of torque. Did it have locking compound on the threads? As far as breaking the 1/2 drives. I break them all the time. Too often for my taste and that is with snap on/craftsman. I wouldnt make it without a good tool warranty.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

NICE , it's OFF !!!
Did the tractor rise up when you jumped onto the bar ?
Amazing how much 'fun' you can have with ONE **%$%&()(#@ bolt !
progress..itty,bitty baby steps, but PROGRESS !

 

[TheOldHokie]

P.S. Forgot to add this is a right hand thread if anyone wants to know

Having removed a few in the last 50+ years I was pretty sure of that. You might want to consider putting an impact wrench on your next Xmas list.

Dan

Quite impressed it was on that tight. You would have thought the threads, or nut would have given up at that amount of torque. Did it have locking compound on the threads? As far as breaking the 1/2 drives. I break them all the time. Too often for my taste and that is with snap on/craftsman. I wouldnt make it without a good tool warranty.

My guess is the head was rusted to the pulley.

Dan

 

[Fishfarmer]

Quite impressed it was on that tight. You would have thought the threads, or nut would have given up at that amount of torque. Did it have locking compound on the threads? As far as breaking the 1/2 drives. I break them all the time. Too often for my taste and that is with snap on/craftsman. I wouldnt make it without a good tool warranty.

It did have some pink looking compound on the washer but it wasn't rock hard. The washer claw was not on the washer when I first looked at it. I think someone had sheared it putting it on. I could see the missing piece when the bolt was free. Possibly someone had sheared it putting it on or put some type of locktite on the washer and then did it up as tight as they could. Will get a new washer with my order. I found a supplier here in Australia thanks Kubotafreak. They are a bit dearer than the prices in the states but with freight and all the messing around it will be easier to get the parts here. Thank you so much for your help appreciated. About to post another thread, comment if you have advice. Cheers.
P.S. Greensville Jay, the tractor couldn't lift with the length of support on the boxed steel but I was aware I could break my back, ha ha. Chinese pipe wrench, I was ready for that to break also. It didn't crack the bolt it just slowly freed up, some surface rust on the thread but was not causing the binding it was the washer. threads are fine and screw straight in after a WD spray. Good old Chinese pipe wrench. They do make some good tools.