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I think 100td is correct. The reason the rubber part looks tapered is because it's permanently deformed. It's probably hardened, too. I've had that happen with o-rings in non-orb applications. Take the seal off carefully and replace it with an o-ring with the same ID and thickness.

It varies but summer blend fuels can jell as high as 28°F

If the pistons hit the pushrods that's a really big problem! Most likely the valves were stuck and the push rods were bent by the lifters pushing up on the push rods. Alternately, if this is an "interference engine" the valve timing was lost and the piston(s) hit open valves(s) causing them...

I doubt you can use the three point with a backhoe on the tractor.

Do some troubleshooting before you start throwing parts at it. Does this machine have seat switches, pto switches, clutch switches, etc in the starter circuit? if it does, make sure those switches are operating properly. make sure the battery ground is making good contatct with the chasis. Are...

it's probably stuff from the manufacturing process. Next filter change should be what ever in your fuel plus what falls or crawls into your tank.

Make sure the strainer at the fuel tank out let is not clogged, restricting fuel flow. Check the air filter for clogging. After that look for a loose switch connection that might cause the fuel solenoid toshut off the fuel intermittently.

Is the vibration continuous? If so, check the u-joints and make sure that the angle of the pto shaft relative to the horizontal is not excessive. Dings in the blades could unbalance them and also cause the problem. Does the vibration follow the blade speed?

How much do the hay bales you want to lift weigh? I'd worry about the moment about the lower part of the bucket anting to deform underload.

I talked to the local Kubota dealer's part guy yesterday about the ROPS program. He was very straight forward. The ROPS is sold at cost with no dealer mark up and the additionally the buyer pays for the shipping. No problem if I want to install it. He said he found two part numbers for my...

+1 if you are plowing you might want o use mixed control where you have position control and draft sensitivity but for most implements (blades, rotary cutters, finish cutters, etc) you just want position control.

Thanks for the tip, Russel.

Glad you got it running and fixed the problem! As i said previously, I don't have any direct experience with your tractor model so I'll give you my opinion based on my experience with tractors in general. Was there a crush washer on the fitting or an o-ring? If so, you might consider...

I have loaders on our other two tractors so I can lift the ROPS into position. Installation should just be via long bolts in the slots on the rear axle housing would be my guess. I'll stop by my local dealer and check it out. It sounds like for the most part it is not going to be a hassle...

Generally the bleeding process for when you run the engine out of fuel requires you to bleed the fuel filter, and then the injector pump and then the injectors, in that order. So if you didn't bleed the injector pump do that then move on to the injectors. Make sure the battery is fully charged...

Having recently bought a 1978 Kubota M4500 tractor, I understand Kubota Inc has a ROPS program for older tractors. Apparently I can get a Kubota designed ROPS for our M4500 for $319. Has anybody here participated in this program and if so, do you have any comments pro's or con's about it?

I don't know if I mentioned this but some times a lift pump has a screen on it. There is a little "domed" cap with a screw in it. If you remove the screw, the cap comes off and there is a screen under the cap. IF you have a pump like that, check to see if it has a screen in that might be clogged...

The little engine in your tractor doesn't use much fuel so the pump doesn't have to supply much. It just needs to boost in to the injector pump. And when you open the discharge port since there is no restriction, there is hardly any pressure. Put a "T" in the line and measure with a fuel...

+1 I always start at the tank and work forward. The trash starts in the tank often clogging the strainer. The root cause is generally water condensation that allows a medium for bacteria to grow in the fuel/water interface. That causes a snotty looking crud to form. You can minimize the problem...

Respectfully, while a spark ignition engine has a throttle plate to regulate power through regulating airflow, compression ignition engines have an unrestricted air induction system. So the term WOT is not applicable. I know that sound like picking flysh** out of pepper, but it is an important...