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Running a turboed engine at high power and shutting down without a period to cool the turbomachinery can cause severe rubs as the casing cools down quicker that the rotating parts. In many cases it also reduces the oil supply to the turbo bearing. I'm not saying that's what happened here but...

You are a great mechanic!

Did you happen to notice that it's a 35 gallon bucket!

How do you know it's overheating? Sending unit could be bad. Use an infra-red thermometer. If it's really hot, then make sure the thermostat is opening fully. Most often it's the radiator airside that gets clogged with seeds, chaff, and dirt. Make sure you clean it so you and see through it...

I have an M4500 and I rarely use the decompression system but when I do, it kicks off by itself. It only allows a faster spin up on the engine for starting. Igntion of the fuel occurs with the decompression system is closed. As an aside, my operators manual never even mentions it! I found it my...

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Sounds like a classic case of restricted fuel delivery. Crud in the tank, plugged fuel filter, water in the fuel, failed lift pump (if it has one). Start at the las line before the injector pump (IP), turn on the key and crank the engine holding a container to catch the fuel. You should see a...

Make sure that you are getting fuel to the fuel injection system and your air cleaner is not clogged.

On a tractor, you need all the dust filtration you can get. K&N filters are not the correction filtration level for any tractor.

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With 3000 hrs on the engine, I'd suspect: a) stuck open relief valve, and/or b) loose or cracked oil pump supply tube, and/or c) worn oil pump, and/or d) increased bearing clearances.

You either have water in the fuel storage container and/or the tractor fuel tank That will allow bacteria to grown in the fuel as it lives in the fuel/water interface. When you use BioKleen it will kill the bacteria but you still have to deal with bacteria and its waste. It doesn't disappear.

I agree on the thread sealer. I usually Permatex those.

Usually, loader frames are weldments and as such, they generally don't mate up perfectly. You have to use a BFH, a prybar, and a come-a-long to get them mounted when they are brand new. I don't know of any special tricks but some people believe that suitable foul language and persistence help!

Get your owners manual out and look up the instructions for changing the fuel filter. You probably just have to bleed the fuel delivery system.

Air on the line is of no consequence to the pressure reading.

Poor english on my part. Should have said "... I doubt you would not have been able to move it....." i.e you wouldn't be able to roll the engine over.

If the engine was hydrolocked, I doubt you would not have been able to move it. It could be something as a result of the re-build. Were he bearing pre-lubed? Can you remove the glo plugs and turn the engine over with a wrench on the harmonic balancer?

WE could use a little more info. Given what you have provided, I would check the air cleaner for clogging and check for fuel flow, starting at the lift pump outlet and working back to the tank. At every point you should have continuous full flow. It the fuel dribbles or is intermittent, you have...

That compression number is too low. Either the valves are not set correctly or the valve timing is incorrect. Is it possible the head gasket was too thick?