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Do you have a CB repair shop any where near you. If so I bet they would have any part you would need if it is a diode that's bad. Look at it this way. It's already broken so you can't break it worse. It will either fix it or not.

The dirt dobbers were a small problem on my rops model M 9000 but I think they came as standard equipment on my cab model. It seems like every other time I fuel mine I have to clean the vent tubes out. 9 times out of 10 it will be the one on the right side for some reason. Never have figured...

You might get lucky and just take the fuel line loose at the filter and flush the tank out without removing it. I think I would try that first.

Where did you make your adjustment? Most will have a high and low idle adjustment screws at the pump where your throttle linkage hooks to it. If you work that throttle you should be able to see where the linkage moves. After you find that point the adjustment screws should be at the top and...

Let us know how it works out Dusty.

I hope they will leave that one alone. I really don't want the fresh orange scuffed up.

Just a thought, Have you checked the fuel primer knob on the side of the pump to make sure it's closed? I had a IH do something like the way you describe this one and it was the air filter. Changed it and everything went back to normal.

My old Cat mechanic told me the biggest reason most will say not to use water is the fact that a lot of the time a person will wash their radiator out and not let it dry and put it right back in the dust and then the trash will stick to it worse than normal. He told me if you wash it good that...

If the crud was that bad I bet you have a bunch of stuff built up in your tank as well. You may be better off to remove your tank and wash it out good. If you have a algea problem it will be built up in your tank to. It's probably starving for fuel and there for no power.

I may be fixing to tell you wrong so please forgive me if I do. I think if you use a standard remote valve to power a hyd motor or drive you will overheat your tractors hydraulic system. This would be where you will need a flow control remote which is normally listed as a optional third remote...

I just sold a 14" like that for $100. I thought that was fair. I put ezee flow spreader in my google search and there was several in it for way less money than that.

Find the wires that go to the switch and check them with a ohm meter in the closed possition. If they are working it should pass current thru the switch. If you have it closed and no current passes thru then you located your bad switch.

First thing that comes to my mind is a safety switch.

When you changed the fuel filter did you look at what was in it? Did it have water or little black looking specks in the fuel? If you have water in you tank and didn't notice it even with the new filter you will still have water in it and didn't fix your problem. When it's running does it...

I went thru what sounds like the same circumstance that you are going thru now and it about drove me crazy. Ended up loosing all my refridgerant and I even made up a few new cuss words in the process. I felt like kicking my own ass after I found the problem. Try this and maybe you will get...

Even though it doesn't have many hrs it is still 4 yrs old. What does the trans oil look like? Is it milky looking? You could have water in it from condensation.

I bet the car saw better days

Ipz, I do remember that but I don't think I ever got to see the mountain stone version. It seemed like every time it would rain that poor dude was fixing his mail box.

Don't know anything about them but it seems like they have what you need. www.compactractorparts.com

I can't see it from my house. I guess it's about 250 yds from the road.