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The L3302 and L2501 are the same frame size with same loader. Pushing, pulling, lifting; not likely to be a big difference. The advantage (to some) for the 2501 is no exhaust treatment so not as much expensive stuff to potentially break down. The advantage to the L3302 is more HP which can be...

Sounds like an issue with the operator presence switch, but with it being new, I’d probably leave it to the dealer under warranty unless it’s extremely simple to fix.

October is definitely a good time to visit. It’s starting to cool off a bit then and kids are back in school so it’s pretty quiet. Just get trip insurance if you’re spending a good bit on it. October is also hurricane season here.

I prefer the temperate rain forest in the mountains. Wife prefers the beach, particularly the northern outer banks where there’s limited to no development. We live in the middle so we travel via camper to have a bit of home we can take in either direction.

I’ve never been to New Hampshire. If my wife’s medical issues ever stabilize enough to allow us to make long road trips with the camper again, a glove swap would be a good excuse spend a couple weeks there.

Because all their left-handed mates are residing solo in the glove bin at my shop. Can’t help with the remainder of your questions.

If you can’t source an OEM window; AND it’s flat; AND the Binswanger Glass in Raleigh isn’t too far from you; most likely they can provide custom cut safety glass based on a cardboard template. If it isn’t flat, there’s still a chance they can custom bend depending on complexity of shape...

Maybe there’s something different about Kubota tractors and if so, I’m open to correction. However, auto glass replacement and equipment cab glass replacement, in my experience, requires a urethane adhesive sealant specifically made for the task. (Just an example; not a specific recommendation.)...

Not sure this is worth posting, but… Somewhat before I was born, I think mid-1960’s, my father bought this Ford that had a long crack and chunk missing from the left side of the block. He rebuilt the engine and glued a piece of steel in the hole with some sort of two part epoxy. In the late...

Wife and I had a similar decision a couple years ago when we bought the T2290. We had a zero turn and for reasons still beyond my understanding she absolutely hates zero turns. 4WD wasn’t a requirement for us, so the T was a good option. The BX sans loader wasn’t much more than the GR, the BX...

I have little else useful to add here and my only experience with using float on a toplink is with my ROPS L4701, which is admittedly a severely limited sample size, so take this for what it’s worth, which may or may not be much. When I first got the hydraulic toplink, I thought it might be...

1. Just out of curiosity, what is your task where float is desirable or required? If you don’t have a specific use for it, it’s a lot of money for something there’s no current need for and could be added later if a need arises. Dealer asked me the same question when I specified a float detent...

For the boxblade it should be wide enough to cover the tire tracks. Same for the blade and I second @jyoutz opinion on offset and weight.

Don’t detach the boxblade. Put the remote in float. (Push it past the detent and leave it there.) Raise the lift. If the end without the hydraulic cylinder raises and the one with the hydraulic cylinder doesn’t, it’s a float. And yes, you can move the hoses to get the toplink to float. Edit...

1. No. If you have a full quick hitch, the hydraulic toplink mounts to the tractor side of the quick hitch. There’s a hook on the implement side of the quick hitch for the toplink on the implement. Same for the lift arms. So yes, it puts the implement a few inches further behind the tractor but...

After owning a Kubota that just rolled over 500 hours, I don’t have anything bad to say about Kubota or the two dealerships I deal with. After spending a few active years on this forum, I don’t hear much bad about them either; a few issues/complaints but not much. As @rc51stierhoff suggested...

Put the disc harrow back in the shed, got the bush hog out of the shed, dropped the loader, put the ROPs down to fit under the trees, and mowed. And mowed. And mowed some more.

Not running them currently because I haven’t had to replace the blades that came on my T. Have used them in the past on previous mowers. Seemed to be of good quality and held up well.

Rowed up field to flat field, part two. This is what today started with. Dried out decently yesterday. Pretty lumpy. Not bush hog friendly quite yet. Dad used to have a home made drag that went with the disc harrow. It was a pair of 6x6’s in a V with a piece of angle iron at the back, a couple...