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haha..i'm gulity of this as well ^^. went to move one day..and for some reason it would not move ?, hmmm..did my hydro go out again ?..nope ..i forgot to take the parking brake off !..lol.

Yeah, i have been doing ton's or research on what kinda tires i needed ?, i really wanted to try the r14 ?, but i could not find any for the size of my rims that i had to purchase ?. so i went with the r1's for the work area i plan on using my tractor in. i purcahsed this tractor used a year or...

they are Carlise, farm specialist. on brand new kubota rims. when you switch from turf tires to ag tires ?, you must also install the tires on different rims, turf tire rims are not the same rim styles for ag tires.

I mounted 4 new ag tires to my b2100. currently waiting on power steering parts to come in, so i can rebuild the power steering. i swapped out the turf tires ( they still hold air, but dry rotted ) with some tread left on them, but i needed more traction for an up coming job i need to get done...

now that i will agree on !..lol.

FEL are optional, which would explain the SAE bolts maybe ?. from the factory, '' most '' bolts on kubota's are metric, but not every one of them, from what little time i've worked on my b2100 ?. i've had to use metric sockets and wrenches.

ok..let me rephrase my statement a tad..'' most '' bolts on kubota's are metric, but not everyone of them. lol

i have not looked your model up , but the easy way to check to see if the battery is charging, crank it up, use a multimeter touching the neg and pos terminals on battery, with the rpms up, the tester should show at least 12 or more volts going back into the battery. if for some reason its not...

you are welcome :-). yep..all bolts on kubota's are metric..that is..unless '' someone '' changed them to SAE at one point in its life ?.

with enough time, you can just look at the bolt head, and tell what size it is ?. pretty much every bolt head on kubota's are all metric. 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm are all the common bolt heads. until you start taking lose larger bolts ?, these will range up to 20mm, 22mm, and so forth. the smaller...

before i purchased my titan bb, i did a lot of research about those special clips, every video i watched about them showed small rocks getting down inside the clips, making them very hard to remove, i made a hard pass on that bb, and went with the titan bb with pins to adjust the shanks.

chances are, if #70 and #80 bearings are bad ?, then #90 oil seal should also be replaced, but at least it can be replaced from the outside, i had to replace this seal on my mmm output shaft for my b2100.

i use a 4ft box blade on my b2100, works pretty good. to decide which box blade is wide enough for your tractor ?, measure the width of your rear wheels, then try purchasing a box blade close to its width ?, or a tad wider ?, same goes with a tiller attachment, you should stick to wheels width...

on my tractor, the pick up screen is on the right rear , inside the transaxle, lower bottom side. it has a line running to it, out side has a large nut on the end. next to it is a copper washer i think it is ?, then the line, then another washer, then screws into the transaxle. i do not know...

i do not own your model, my tractor is a b2100. what i can toss your way is two things what could cause your tractor not moving ?, one being the hydro pump at the engine ?, or worse case, the hydrostat transmission is bad ?. if its the hydrostat transmission ?, be warned !!!..this is very high...

* SOLD *

no, sorry, it was sold, guess i should have came back to update this post, sorry.

you might wanna look the fich up, and see if it calls for any o-rings and gaskets ?. if your tractor is anything like my b2100 ?, you will have to split the tractor in order to get to it ?. watch for any odd placed hydraulic lines that have o-rings ?, remember where they fit. a tube of yamabond...

i do not know of any skid plates for this area on your tractor ?. i have a b2100, and it too has lines in odd places under it. perhaps you could drill and tap some holes in the main frame on the sides, wrap you some metal around and over the bottom, in other words, make a home made skid plate...

flat part on metal where the tube goes up into the block is bent from what i see ?. straighten it out, install a new o-ring back onto the end of the tube that goes up into the block. be warned ::!!!, o-rings from harbor freight kits do not work !.