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Those of you who have the "Porta-Band" type, what lead you to buy that particular model?

The PCs first use, putting a radius on the ends of the 1/4" angle.

You mean 10 pounds into a five pound box. Yep. This Plasma Cutter is like an orgasm. It cuts SO AWESOME!!!

This is Puff. She likes to have ALL the Nyla Bonz in front of here. She never sits still for a picture.

What a chore. It started easy, move the middle shelf down 2.5". Then I went OCD...LOL. Man, almost a full day farking around to get my welding cart set-up for the Plasma Cutter to be on board. The cart is completely self contained. The Motor Guard Air Dryer, Plasma Cutter and air feed are all...

I was in a similar situation regarding "help" in general, prior to getting my little Kubota. My getting a Plasma Cutter is going to help me get several tractor related projects done. I also have some modifications I want to do to my box trailer. On the fun side, I plan to use it for freehand...

I'm gaining. All wires followed factory (planning ahead), but not attached to the fuel pump line. And I thought Japanese vehicles were a headache. The factory wire harness routing is strategically snaked. I followed them with my looms, and zip-tied along the way, clear of all moving parts...

I'm thinking the cooler coil will not work on it's own. Added into the larger system (as shown early on within the thread), it definitely would help. I've done things the hard way. Within reason, I'm replacing the weld shop so I can save. I also don't have much patience anymore. I want it NOW.

Update to running the wires. Once the ROP bases were removed and I got a look from the bottom, the fight was on. After about 1.5 hours, struggling, there was no way to get the wires through. I tried fish wires. Forget it. I decided to try drilling through the baffles. I used 12" drill bits...

Been there..done that. Rinse/Repeat....MANY TIMES!!!! We do what we do. (y)

My lights and ROPS Gray paint arrived today. I couldn't help myself to clamp the lights to the mounts, and test them. They fit nicely, both on the mounts, and tucked under the ROP Bar in the bend. Wide Beam Floods. They're definitely bright. Now to decide how to go about my best approach...

BXhoosier This looks to be a handy addition, maybe it will also work on my 2023 BX23S. How has it been working out for you? Thanks for sharing.

The hairpin type will work better and easier.

I don't necessarily care for the toplink myself. I considered drilling through the center and putting the thru-rod in it, that's when I did what I did as seen above.

If I was in your situation... That pole building needs commercial road mat barrier put down over the sand. Then I would put down 3" crush quarry rock, then a 1" crush binder to fill/lock it all together, then packed. Or, pour concrete (best) Gutters, downspouts into 6" corrugated pipe to...

This is probably relative to all BX models. Where the 3PH is attached to the lift-arms, the top pins, (nearest the toplink) what have people done to eliminate those cumbersome circlips? Longer pins? Clip Pins? Linch Pins? There's got to be a better way. What's your solution to the madness?

Easier for me to adjust tool free.

I've seen this switchback method used in a personal autobody shop. Theirs come from the pump and started at the top- blowing down the switchback. On the bottom leg it dropped to a long straight with a drain. Above the drain about 18" was a "Y" which continued the loop to the tank, which also had...

At this point I'm staged for testing lights in several positions, due to mount size. The lights can be clamped to the mounts, then the mount with light, can be moved and clamped most anywhere. Where I'm at on the WA Coast, bugs have never been much of an issue.

I looked into them. I've also had someone locally try to sway me into buying a portable type. As it stands, I use a radial arm, and tablesaw for cutting (up-to) 3/8" aluminum. Those tools work, but they send the bits and pieces just like when cutting wood. I don't care for the mess there is to...