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We have an old new holland ts100, built like a tank frame wise and like a toy car in the rest but we manage. Recently when you shift into reverse after having a big push like scooping up a load or somthing it will start to roll then clunk. Still works but this clunk in the rear end is...

Imma just eat the whole Apple

I'm one of thoes people who gets alot of sinus headaches that border on migranes. Bad smell? Massive headache... Weather pressure change? Massive headache.... Bend over alot.... you get the gist. So I basically live on excedrine but then you can get reflex headaches but I get the headaches...

Copper pipe isn't that hard to solder, joints don't have to be picture perfect as long as they are really strong

That's currently what I'm doing because same problem. Although I did see a different type of gate valve but it's reducing style. The in side gets 1/2 the diameter and outlet gets the other. Plunger plugs the hole between the 2. But it's reducing so not a fan

Also stainless steel or brass? Stainless is like 1/3 cheaper. My opinion is a ball valve, they trap water and can split on the side but this crack only leaks when opening or closing the valve. It does not leak in normal operation. You may wonder why I would choose this valve. For me gate...

I assumed the van because the tail light circuit was blinking which should be solid. But my dad was so sure it was somthing else. I think it's corrosion as the voltages do read correctly but it can't pas current.

At the end of the day the van connections were bad. I bought a 7 to 4 pin converter and it works fine. It already had a 4 pin but it was bad. Works great now, I cleaned up the trailer wiring with some nice heat shrink as well

I did somthing similar, I tested it with a separate power supply and the trailers ground and the light worked fine. Hmmmm

It's quite possible the ground is bad although not a tiling trailer. Does not appear rusty but it's possible. Truck ground and trailer ground have a connection but that does not garentee it is good under load. I will run a ground wire and see what happens.

My ground tested good but it would not be that hard to make it a 4 wire whare the ground is ran the the frame of the light. eliminating the need for ground to pass through the frame. When I say tested good it reads a voltage and a connection,

Trailer actually is 3 wire.

Ok Idk if I'm screwing up or if my dads van connections are bad but he needs me to get the lights on one of his boat trailers working. Should be fairly easy, they are very dim and acting odd, clean up grounds and still dim. Ohh he ran the battery dead testing ok so fix that.... solid tail lights...

You wouldn't believe the force that loader would take when hitting something. It's actually not uncommon for big farms to bend loaders in 2-300hp tractors as well. Everything has a limit although usually they hit somthing on the other side to fix it. The newest kubota I bought has a very smart...

Unfortunately this can happen, smaller tractors are easy to overload and damage. I had a deere that I hooked somthing plowing snow at full speed. Snapped the plows angle cylinder but did not hurt the loader (so I thought) it actually bent one of the loader arms slightly to the right, noticeable...

I think it's one tank that goes across but I didn't look close. Almost looks like the biggest part of the tank is on the left and pickup on the right. Fun side note is this takes DEF fluid but it uses almost none.... like 78 hours and I used 1/4 tank of DEF. I'd say 4 tablespoon of DEF per like...

It's under the cab, not on the left or right side is right across. Pickup is on the right though.

I was pushing out brush so like 5 mins at the angle.

I honestly don't find new machines of any type read accurate fuel levels.

I think it has to do with lowering the center of gravity and keeping it balanced. I feel like it should pickup from both tanks somhow but if this is my only issue ill be fine.