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No not like that, the side you see goes into the block. Other side is a standard coupler

Thats the one end That's weird. I basically need that in a hose end so I can put stub hoses and then use pioneer fittings. F. 20B0 is on the one end I see.

They use an uncommon type. The entire manifold is unusual... for now I have a rag duct taped to it to catch the leaks

Theres no room to fit anything directly so I need to make short stubby hoses that will fit that block and then put pioneer fittings on. The flat flace you get one attach/detach cycle and then they leak.... pioneer theres some older than me and they never leak. The unusual thread type is what may...

As mentioned above I guess they are called flat face couplers, they use them on this as there is no room for pioneer style unless you add short hose pieces that are the weird thread style. Also this loader is an M16 not a LA1854 Something about my environment is making them terrible, pioneer...

I love my Kubota M5n091 but my do I hate thoes bobcat style quick couplers.... every spring I take the loader off and ever fall I put it back on. Every fall atleast one of the fittings leaks really bad and needs to be replaced.... I get one attach/remove cycle out of thoes expensive couplers...

I have this in off topic as it's not a kubota tractor but this is still interesting.... My one tractor was having issues such as screaming hot transmission and an error light saying charge air temp high... I went through many things of thinking it was the 3rd water pump that cools thoes things...

They just keep on trucking

I'm always welding stuff on the farm, hard facing, repairs.... building new stuff. My newest welder does tig so that's fun and now I can fix my aluminum pipe. My 2 welders are a big old Lincon 250, and a new Ecowave 200.. or is it 210 I forget. Oh and a little portable mig welder too. The lincon...

No it lines up with min and max, see the other thing I forget is these amperage value recommendations are also going to be for a certain travel speed too. I'm pretty good at adapting to current with different speeds. I did find at 200amps the stoody 35 worked better though but had to go faster...

That's quite possible, just have to move faster

The c The color described is correct according to videos, also I need the hardness as even stoody 31 wears off pretty fast. 7018 is what I use for almost everything else it's great, vertical, upside down everything. See I can do the 200+ amps probably just do 200 as I know my welder shoots...

It's just a plain mild steel, it welds fine just if I use the recommended current I have to go alot faster or I'll just blow an inch into the material. Keep in mind my welder is an old idealarc 250, transformer style welder. Apparently transformer style tends to put out alot more amperage than...

Maybe, hard to say..... Whatever it is I'm getting a nice oil on water colored beads

Exactly so why the crazy high recommended current?

That's what I always do, but the recommended current thing had me curious. Whare does that number come from? It's the current I would use to weld heavy plate with good depth with that rod size. Oh that's the thing, in practice 225 amps is waayyyy too much.

So on the farm I do lots of welding, more welding, endless other repairs and some hard facing. I usually choose my welding current based on what works and got pretty good at judging it. I got a new rod, stoody 35, hardfacing rock picker teeth. I'm not perfect enough to get it to self peel but I...

I managed to find the parts but they are a few weeks away... I actually managed to drill a hole through a bolt and make it into a nipple and then used a rubber hose to cobble it for now

No only one end is a banjo eyelet, other end is 3mm pipe thread male going to 6mm pipe thread female

No it goes right on the high pressure pump, it adapts to the male version of that though as in the part that broke off is male. 3mm is the size on the injection pump, line is like a 6mm