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I find it very common (atleast around here) for Ptos to get stuck, won't slide then won't latch then won't unlatch... ect. Generally when they get stuck attached I just unhook everything else and slowly drive away, drive shaft comes apart and I got to my shop to get it unhooked from the...

Water pump looks like new, removed it and it looks perfect. Nothing is blocked either. I only notice 2 things with one being a tiny tiny amount of side to side play in the pump shaft that I can feel bad is too small to see and the impeller has a very slight wobble. So why it only has enough push...

Looking on YouTube it's common for the veins to crack off or the impeller to crack. Usually after alot more than 4k hours but.... it sure appears to be the case. Impeller still spinning but pieces missing so no flow. Next step is removing the pump to confirm..

I looked in with the scope, bumped it and of course it started because it starts to easy but anyways I was able to see the impeller spinning. Can see the port to the input side of the heater line whare it enters the block, it blows right at that port so the impeller must have damage. I saw it...

I see that the water pump on mine looks like the heater core line is more priority. Just looking at a picture of the pump inside the line for heat is on the side and the regular cooling must push back? So no heater core flow must mean dead pump completely

For checking out a water pump? Yea I guesss

Uhhhhh wutt

I know the heater core one isn't as I can use a little pump in line to make flow go to that and get heat. Not sure what's computer controlled on this other than it's weird but pretty cool starting sequence.

I believe it's the primary water pump, no heat because theres no flow to the heater core but nothing is plugged. Must be a bad shaft seal that pulls air in when spinning but seals when stopped. Kinda crazy if that tractor has been running with just the thermosyphon effect

It's currently charged to 35PSI from It's own pressure it makes. 2 hours it hasn't dropped 1 PSI. It's kinda insane

Honestly it's like a valve that opens when the engine starts and closes immediately after. Since it holds pressure and vaccume. It's making me insane

I'm soon gunna build some sorta coolant trap to help air get out better without losing coolant and then close the hood and pretend it's fine 😄 🤣. Exhaust I would expect the chemical test to go off or there to be alot more flow into the cooling system at high load/rev. It does increase but not...

So lets say it's a weirdly placed crack, what area heats up within 1-2 mins to open a crack but cools in seconds to let it close back up so the system will hold pressure and vaccume. Not only that it only got slightly worse after 880 hours and tons of heat cycles.

It's quite possible, I do know normally at full hard load a diesel will start blowing a bit of black (good ones generally not too bad just can tell) modern ones It's like the engine controls say "ok don't add anymore fuel were at rated output" My old engines just roar hard and start putting out...

That's crazy lol... I think the 6068 is 180Hp engine tuned to 130 but I forget for sure. They do that alot I think, I have a 91HP kubota narrow and my friends friend has a 60HP full size that I'm pretty sure has the same engine tune down... it sure sounds and looks like it.

It has more than rated power though

On a diesel? No idk how on this

Theres a couple pics, the giant square thing is the intercooler heat exchanger and if you think it looks messed up I have a temp pump on the secondary cooling system as I originally thought it was the pump behind the fan pulling air. I haven't switched it back yet because the lower flow rate...

Similar yes and it could be, It holds vaccume to. I'll send pics of it

6 cylinder so must be 6068