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Convince a man Against his will He's of the same Opinion still!

Kinda the way i figured this thread would go! Good luck everybody.

It feeds the hold but not the pull-in winding. I suppose there could be a short inside it causing the amps to be too high but it is a long shot.

It will take a LONG time for all the air to work it's way out of the hubs. Some models have vent plugs on the top to let the air out.

They simply snap in there. I "carefully!" pry them out with two screwdrivers .

I would repair it myself if I owned it, so, yes, I think a good or average machine shop could do it. It likely wouldn't be much cheaper than a new one from Kubota though! I would try installing it end for end, put lots of grease in there and you might get a lot more running out of it. The...

The BW wire that goes through the safety switches is to small to blow the 30a fuse. I would look for a wire worn through somewhere between the starter and the ignition switch that moves and shorts out when the engine is cranking. It seems it is the engine cranking that is causing it to blow...

Depending where you get parts they will likely add up to $3000 or so and about 20 hrs labour with a loader.

It isn't a sleeved engine. Pistons are available .25mm over so you can bore it to that.

Simply pull them back and they will come off. Start with the front one. The "skidplate" must be off. If there is a lot of slop in the front joint you may have to replace the front diff ring and pinion to correct it!

The PTO does operate when in reverse but it lacks "live" PTO so the PTO stops when you clutch the tractor. That would be a pita with a snowblower!

Remove the tin "skidplate" and remove the centre hanger bearing then the shaft will come out. The kit from Kubota is the best way to fix it.

Sounds like the engine has been overheated. You will likely have a cracked head and scored cylinders. The radiator cap adapter will likely be ruined as well on the seat where the cap should seal. Consider installing a custom rad with more rows. The 1140 was hard to keep cool, especially if...

I agree! It isn't! I don't know why I thought it was a BX but even a B7800 would require a lot of expensive parts to convert.

If Kubota had a similar model that has position control it would be easier. The BX style transaxle has never incorporated any type of PC. By substituting an external valve with feedback from the TPH linkage it could be done ( I once did it on a PowerKing tractor that I had) Room to install it...

The return oil from the steering IS the charge oil for the HST on a BX ( and some other Kubota models) so the steering and the HST are related. They are right though, that you shouldn't need to prefill the steering cylinder though it wouldn't hurt to do it. Running the transmission low on...

In my experience an in-frame rering job is rarely satisfactory. If your engine has been "dusted" it will need to have the cylinders repaired. The compression is definitely on the low side and likely causing the rough idle and smoke on cold start.

You can weld stainless steel to mild steel, it actually welds quite nicely! But it is not stainless steel anymore after you weld it so why spend the extra money?

The correct answer is no..... but with enough determination anything is a possibility!

I have actually done this repair on a BX2670 but I also have a complete machine shop and about the same years experience! That said, a local machine shop should be able to do this. It isn't really very hard and shouldn't take them very long.