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Well all I can say is, you guys are batting way above my pay grade, but it is interesting, and enjoyable reading.

That's a great looking old rig, I would love to have one like it. If it was mine, I would replace the wood and leave it in it's "working clothes".

Can this be done in place ? Considering what it takes to remove and reinstall the cyl, Doing it in place seems like it would be worth the extra discomfort. If doing it on a bench, I think I would replace the other retainer ring as well .

Does the engine you took the filter assy off of run well with it installed? When you bypass the filter do you use different hoses, most likely. Try a new hose between the inlet of the filter and the pump with the original filter assy installed, the inner wall of the original hose may be...

I would replace it. If Kubota don't have one, I am sure a Napa type place will.

Your tire is 18" in diameter, 8.5" wide on a 10 inch rim. Any 8.5 x 10 inch tube will do. No need to feel stupid, we all need to learn every thing we know.

It appears to be the ECU. But what triggers the ECU, I am not sure, probably a combination of engine rpm and transmission pressures. There also appears to be a hst swashplate sensor and a hst pedle sensor.

Check out this link. It looks like a good rig. I Put A Kink In My Bucket Hitch | OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

Excellent, very well though out. Sometimes a guy needs to build his own to get what he wants.

Considering how quickly the oil is leaking, I would look in the access port with a flashlight and a mirror if needed, to verify where the oil is coming from. There have been a lot of needless repairs done because people "though" they knew where the fluid was coming from.

I could not copy and paste so I took a couple of pictures. These are from my WSM for my L6060. They perform the same procedure for the lash between the bull gear and the lower bevel gear. The only pressure on the plasigage will be the rotational force to turn the vertical shaft and the bull...

I know what you mean, normally you don't move anything when you use plasigage, but I am thinking without any real resistance, like a wheel being driven by a diesel engine it might stand up. ??? If you put it on the coast side I think it would just get pushed out of place, so the drive side is...

One big problem I see with it being held in place with grease, is it being pushed out of position when the tooth sweeps into the valley between the teeth. To make this work I would almost think you would need to assemble it without turning anything. Then take it back apart, and measure the...

My owners manual states to cycle some R.V. antifreeze through it. I have done this every year and never had a issue.

Great find. I also was thinking hyd cylinders, but seeing the amount of travel you may need to go to motors and chains, to get the entire amount of travel.

Is the lever moving or is the tractor down shifting on it's own ? If it is down shifting on it's own, try turning off the stall guard, and the auto downshift, and see what happens.

I would say the main thing to verify is that the teeth are not touching the coast side of the teeth when they are coming into and out of contact.

you would need to put it on the coast side, not the driven side. That's the only way I can see it working. As Hagrid mentioned, solder would do the same trick.

grease. The procedure reads to use grease.

I checked my L6060 manual and it reads the same, and it points to the side of the tooth. My concern would be the plastigage getting wiped/damaged. I would think you would need to put it on the "coast" side, to measure the lash. You can try the gears by hand, but I don't think the teeth would...