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I've got a goose neck lamp, and an old CB antenna magnet. Thanks for the idea. I guess it could also be useful for looking backwards without having to turn around in your seat for reversing. My neck and back would appreciate that.

Seat time will help with knowing when the bucket is level to the surface you are on, but I'm still going to fashion up a mirror to help to see the bucket lip. Quite often I use the lip to lift, flip, scoot, etc. and sometimes need to position the lip just right, not necessarily flat or level...

I would ask the seller when he filled it up. If that fuel has been sitting there for months on end, I'd drain the tank t inspect it for debris, check the filters, and would instantly have a low fuel situation to see if the light works. If it's fresh fuel, I wouldn't bother doing all that...

https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=24&page=1 If you weld like I do, it would be wise to worry about it breaking ;) Using a coupler like in the link above would be a worry free way to extend the steering shaft.

And I think the Hurst shifter knob would go good on the throttle bar, and of course some fuzzy dice. This reminds me I still have an old Mack truck bulldog hood ornament I need to mount up front.

Have you considered cutting the splined end off steering shaft and welding in a length of rod to lengthen the whole shaft. That would move your steering wheel as close as you'd like without having to match any splines or get a new wheel.

PO = previous owner

Sounds like a win-win for you, but a no go for me. Enjoy and thanks for sharing.

Interesting. I'm going to look tonight.

They look really good. My first concern was ratios, but skeets already mentioned that. My second concern was sidewall construction. With a FEL, the fronts need to handle the brunt of that weight and from my experience ATV wheels tend to have soft sidewall for better flex and traction, but are...

Yes, the liquid increases the footprint or contact patch just like in a balloon, but to a much lesser degree. The tire carcass does flex but not as much as a balloon. If the tire didn't flex (think solid wheel as in a wooded wagon wheel) then adding iron weights wouldn't increase the footprint...

I don't see why all electric vehicles don't have a solar panel on the roof and hood. I have a ten minute drive work. If it had a solar panel to top off the battery while it sat in the sun for 8 hrs while I'm at work, I'd never have to plug in. But then I would miss out on having to do oil...

Looks like you've got that weight low enough to help for your situation, nicely done.

Curious, do you mow with the mmm while keeping the 235 lbs on the 3pt for extra traction? I agree that the liquid in the tires doesn't do any harm to the lawn in normal situations, and my rears are filled (much bigger tires with a lot more weight than a BX), but my point was 'heavier is not...

Depends on what you're doing with that BX. If you're mowing, neither is best. If you're doing heavy front loader work, both would be better, different machine would be best. If you use that BX for a little of everything which is what it's made for, then iron is easier to put on and take off...

Since the steering is hydraulic, not direct linkage, there is no correct steering wheel orientation. It's a circle and it will change orientation as you use it, but will always be a circle. If the name plate not being right side up all the time bothers you, cover it with something circular...

I decided on the EA box blade after looking at everything I could find. It's the beefiest, best built one out there. Pricey, but with free shipping it's not that much more than others, and is more than worth the extra cash if you have it. the J-bar stuff looked clean and put together well...

I'm not too familiar with those two models in particular, but in general, backhoe and bucket work is hydraulic in nature, so hp doesn't really matter. More HP does not = more power. If the lift specs on the loaders is about =, I would suggest that the backhoe on the 23 would be much better...

Just in case, should mention that by "on a public road" means driving it, not trailering it. If it's on a trailer on a public road, it does not need to be attached. As a matter of fact, it should be taken off per the manual since at hwy speeds the wind will most likely deposit it into someones...

My ZT does much better on slopes than any riding mower I've ever had. Heavier, wider wheel base, much bigger rear tires, lower center of gravity. I feel more comfortable on slopes on it than I do on my tractor. Of course all is relative, and anything will flip if you're not paying attention.