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There is a way you can mark the three holes using your lathe. There are sixty holes in the drive gear next to the chuck and you use the pin with the knurl on it to lock the chuck for marking. Couple of different ways to locate the bolt hole center with measuring and math and I put a center punch...

Great write up! 🤣🤣🤣

You are on your way! Practice, practice, practice. I like what I am seeing in your progression! Congratulations on the new toy

How did that get past QC? Simple, there is no QC department!

I have become a fan of the 17HMR for varmint hunting out to 200 yards. After that the 223/556 and then the venerable 22-250 for the 400 plus yard shots.

I believe we have the same lathe. The spindle bore is tapered for a number 3 Morse taper. Just make sure the spindle bore is clean before seating the center.

Unless someone comes up with the thickness, you can assemble the cluster and use a feeler gauge to establish the gap and subtract a couple of thousands for heat expansion. It appears to me that the shim is acting like a washer between the bearing and retaining clip.

This is a sure sign of aging! A few short years ago I would have crawled underneath to blast this for paint. The thought of doing that so disgusted me I took the time to do this. I am happy!

Going back together. I made up some replica removable dowel pins for the clutch housing. In theory, you put a nut on the threads and they will back out of the blind holes. That is if they don't rotate. This will be the next guys' problem. Anyway, installed them and then attached the clutch...

That part doesn’t look like a casting. It looks like a formed plate which would mean it is mild steel plate. But your picture sure looks like a cast steel break. Scratching my head on this one

Good detective work! And when you are dealing with trying to find parts, adult beverages are part of the game.

Installed the bushings and checked for fit.

Making new bushings for the brake actuator. This is kind of a challenge because of how thin the wall of the bushing is. ID is for .75" shaft and the OD is .805" so the wall is only about .025". Chucked some bearing stock in the lathe and turned the OD to size. Then I drilled and bored each...

Starting to reassemble the transmission. The woodruff key on the drive coupler was pretty beat up so I decided to make one due to the fact this key is kind of an oddball size. (Woodruff #126) I think this is the first one I have ever made. Then when it came time to install the coupler, there...

Rebuilding the pto driveshaft. I started by turning down the forward end that rides in the countershaft bushing. This end was worn over .015" but it really didn't have to be a certain size. So I turned it down to where it just cleaned up and then machined an undersize bushing and brought that...

On the main transmission coupler, somehow the surfaces of the seal and the coupler got damaged. Scratching my head here as it looks like something got jammed in between the coupler and the seal housing. But what happened is anyone's guess. I machined the coupler surface down and made a sleeve...

Working on the two input shafts couplers on the transmission. Both have seal surfaces that are worn. I made a whole new pto coupling nut out of 4140.

Good excuse for a road trip for the wife and I. On the bucket list for the experience. Really enjoying this retirement gig!

Pressed the bushings out of the gears and made some new ones out of Ampco bronze that I had on hand. Pressed them in and reamed to size. I also added a hole in the gear casting for oiling the bushings. Carbide drill got that done.

Pretty much disassembled down to as far as I'm going to go. Got a nice day coming up early next week to power wash parts so in the mean time I'll rebuild some parts. Starting with the reverse gear shaft and bushings.