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I always adjust the bolt on the front of the axle pivot. It's part of a routine service. It will certainly help things not wear prematurely.

You could certainly double not the studs and try to remove them. Typically they aren't very easy. You can only remove the front bracket without removing the driveline.

If you'll notice on each bracket is two bolts and two studs. The driveline must be removed to drop the axle down to remove the brackets. There's no reason you can't drill and tap the original bracket. I have had better luck using a die grinder to cut the old bushing out for replacement.

I would have any of the parts you might need for your front drive. I would have the outer axle assembly rebuilt ready to ship as well.

I would remove the outer axle and inspect the bearings. You have an inboard and an outboard bearing. You also have the two half moon keepers that sit behind the large gear. Is it possible that those are not in place. This also possible that you have a bearing that is not correct. Maybe the...

As Wolfman said shift fork. Reverse gear has its own shift fork. First and second gear would be a separate shift fork. It would be odd that both of them are broke. My guess is something in the actual shift cover causing the problem. This is a 45 year old tractor and can have a lot of wear and...

I hope this helps.

Is it the black hose or the red hose? The red hose is the suction line to the pump. The black hose is the pressure line from the pump to the valve. The suction line is generally just slipped on barbed fittings with the hose clamp. The black hose will have cramped on ends. Any good Auto Parts or...

I have the tensioning bracket. The springs it would be best to get new ones from kubota. They are still available.

Normally your loader gets hydraulic oil before the 3-point hitch. I assume you have the aluminum hydraulic block under the seat on the left side. This should be where your oil is coming from for the loader. Then it is returned to the block to be used in the three-point. Where did you check the...

Are you looking for the original base? If so I should have a used one.

I would bet the hydraulic pump lost prime. Take the suction line off the pump and pour oil into it. Most cases that'll solve the problem.

My guess is that the hydraulic pump lost prime. This can happen when the pumps get weak or you have a leak on the suction side of the pump. I would suggest you remove the screen on the right side of the engine under the hydraulic pump and clean it. Then remove the pipe that is attached to the...

If your hydraulic reservoir is full your pump will be full as well. No bleeding necessary.

To check the oil pressure you will need a 1/8 British pipe adapter to your gauge. Standard pipe just won't start in the hole. On larger pipe sizes it's no problem. I've tried to use 1/8" npt and it won't work. Most Auto Parts stores will have them.

Yes. I have plenty of L245 DT parts.

You will need to prime the pump. Take the inlet pipe off the pump and fill the pump with oil. Should pick it up and start working.

I have plenty of them. I sent you a message.

As others have said it's relatively easy to drop the whole four-wheel drive box out. If the lever is all intact I would try spraying some penetrating oil on the detent portion which is located on the outside. I see many times they are just rusted up and won't allow the lever to move.

Tough old tractors. At one time here in the Central valley of California there was a lot of these machines. The most popular in this area where the mudders used in row crops. I actually went to SAME service school in 1985. They used an air code diesel similar to the Deutz engine. Don't see many...