What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[Old_Paint]

Picked up my filters and engine oil at the local dealer today. They claim 5 gallons will do the trick to refill the tranny and the front axle on the LX2610SUHD, so I guess we'll see. Gonna try to meter it in rather than just glug-glugging it into the tranny first, and hold off on the front axle until I know for sure I have at least a gallon left over in the bucket (per the salesman). If 5 does it, I'll pick up another bucket next month. Gotta ration my tractor expenses these days. Nearly $150 for filters and engine oil. It's still under warranty, so I'm sticking with the Kubota branded oils. Warranty runs out about the same time I make the last payment, and was timed that way for a reason. I will be looking at less expensive substitutes, especially engine oil when the warranty is done.

UDT2 is also expensive so I'm hoping for a full 400 hours out of this change. It was changed at 50 and 200 hours according to the service schedule. Schedule said just filters at 50H, but I went ahead and put new oil in. Couldn't hurt, and I had the money at the time. Now I'm just holding out for some dryer and warmer weather. Crawling around on concrete is better than crawling around on gravel, and certainly better than being in the mud, but the slab in my shop will suck all the body heat out of ya in a blink. I do have some anti-fatigue mats I may try out under there this time, though. Turns out while anti-fatigue mats are great for feet and ankles, they don't do diddly (except perhaps make it hurt worse) for messed up discs at L2, L3, L4 and L5. Never mind they don't follow me around when I'm working in the shop. Hopefully I don't spill much on them and can use them again. Gonna drop the BB and the FEL (with the bucket on) so I can do a good cleanup and proper greasing after giving Lexy a bath. She's overdue, but I've been trying to keep the worst sprayed off with the hose and wiped down. Time for another good thorough cleaning so I can monitor for any newly developing leaks. I'll do the grapple next.

PS. Does anyone know how much replacing both filters affects the refill quantity on the LX2610SUHD. IIRC, it does hold a little less than the non-SU models because there's no mid-mount PTO, but seems I remember at least 4.5 gallons going in to get proper level on the dipstick. I raise the lift to fill the lift cylinder for checking level as well. Dunno, just always figured it should be accounted for.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

Picked up my filters and engine oil at the local dealer today. They claim 5 gallons will do the trick to refill the tranny and the front axle on the LX2610SUHD, so I guess we'll see. Gonna try to meter it in rather than just glug-glugging it into the tranny first, and hold off on the front axle until I know for sure I have at least a gallon left over in the bucket (per the salesman). If 5 does it, I'll pick up another bucket next month. Gotta ration my tractor expenses these days. Nearly $150 for filters and engine oil. It's still under warranty, so I'm sticking with the Kubota branded oils. Warranty runs out about the same time I make the last payment, and was timed that way for a reason. I will be looking at less expensive substitutes, especially engine oil when the warranty is done.

UDT2 is also expensive so I'm hoping for a full 400 hours out of this change. It was changed at 50 and 200 hours according to the service schedule. Schedule said just filters at 50H, but I went ahead and put new oil in. Couldn't hurt, and I had the money at the time. Now I'm just holding out for some dryer and warmer weather. Crawling around on concrete is better than crawling around on gravel, and certainly better than being in the mud, but the slab in my shop will suck all the body heat out of ya in a blink. I do have some anti-fatigue mats I may try out under there this time, though. Turns out while anti-fatigue mats are great for feet and ankles, they don't do diddly (except perhaps make it hurt worse) for messed up discs at L2, L3, L4 and L5. Never mind they don't follow me around when I'm working in the shop. Hopefully I don't spill much on them and can use them again. Gonna drop the BB and the FEL (with the bucket on) so I can do a good cleanup and proper greasing after giving Lexy a bath. She's overdue, but I've been trying to keep the worst sprayed off with the hose and wiped down. Time for another good thorough cleaning so I can monitor for any newly developing leaks. I'll do the grapple next.

PS. Does anyone know how much replacing both filters affects the refill quantity on the LX2610SUHD. IIRC, it does hold a little less than the non-SU models because there's no mid-mount PTO, but seems I remember at least 4.5 gallons going in to get proper level on the dipstick. I raise the lift to fill the lift cylinder for checking level as well. Dunno, just always figured it should be accounted for.

Orgin of those filters...?

On a side note, I have a flat bed, tilt deck equipment trailer with no sides. I load ALL my equipment on it for oil changes etc. I never have to crawl on the shop floor. The trailer deck is a whole easier to access tractor/equipment drain plugs and filters, etc.

 

[McMXi]

I used both tractors this afternoon. I spent close to 45 minutes using the rear blade behind the M6060, and I've come to the realization that I'm really glad that I have a front hydraulic angle snow blade on the MX for snow removal. I used to have a rear blade on the BX most of the winter for extra weight, but rarely used it to move snow. I much preferred the front mount snow blower which I used exclusively to keep the driveways and parking areas clear. So this is my first experience using a rear blade for significant snow removal, and frankly they suck! No doubt someone will say that a rear blade is the best thing going and they have no issues using one, but I bet they have no point of reference if they believe that. Rear blades are not really designed to move snow which has a low density hence lots of volume. When I used the rear blade to move gravel and some dirt this past fall it was awesome in that application.

The boom cylinder rod extension idea kind of worked but also presented another problem in that when the boom swings further over, the angle of the blade relative to the boom changes significantly too. With the boom further over, I'm unable to angle the rear blade enough to get the snow moving towards the outer left edge. I now realize that the only good solution is to extend the blade by 24" or so (bolt on) to the left side, leave the boom cylinder at the factory setting, and try to get all the snow rolling off the blade and down the hill. The problem I'm having is that the 17" tall rear blade fills up very quickly and the less than ideal angle allows snow to windrow at the other end which is less than ideal. I had to get on the MX and use the front blade to get the driveway sorted out and the finished product is shown in the bottom photo.

Having said that, I have managed to reduce the amount of snow that's piled up along the edge of the lower driveway.

 

[mdhughes]

Fell a Oak Sunday, it had a big limb blown out of the top last year and wasn't doing to good at the end of the summer. I got 3 60" logs out of it. With as muddy it is around our place, I didn't want to try 80". Need to get back down to it and cut the rest of it up.

 

[S-G-R]

I used both tractors this afternoon. I spent close to 45 minutes using the rear blade behind the M6060, and I've come to the realization that I'm really glad that I have a front hydraulic angle snow blade on the MX for snow removal. I used to have a rear blade on the BX most of the winter for extra weight, but rarely used it to move snow. I much preferred the front mount snow blower which I used exclusively to keep the driveways and parking areas clear. So this is my first experience using a rear blade for significant snow removal, and frankly they suck! No doubt someone will say that a rear blade is the best thing going and they have no issues using one, but I bet they have no point of reference if they believe that. Rear blades are not really designed to move snow which has a low density hence lots of volume. When I used the rear blade to move gravel and some dirt this past fall it was awesome in that application.

The boom cylinder rod extension idea kind of worked but also presented another problem in that when the boom swings further over, the angle of the blade relative to the boom changes significantly too. With the boom further over, I'm unable to angle the rear blade enough to get the snow moving towards the outer left edge. I now realize that the only good solution is to extend the blade by 24" or so (bolt on) to the left side, leave the boom cylinder at the factory setting, and try to get all the snow rolling off the blade and down the hill. The problem I'm having is that the 17" tall rear blade fills up very quickly and the less than ideal angle allows snow to windrow at the other end which is less than ideal. I had to get on the MX and use the front blade to get the driveway sorted out and the finished product is shown in the bottom photo.

Having said that, I have managed to reduce the amount of snow that's piled up along the edge of the lower driveway.

View attachment 148147

View attachment 148148

View attachment 148149

This is my second winter with the front blower and rear blade. Like you said, it fills fast and I find on the LX it starts to push the tractor around. I primarily use the blade to pull snow away from the house, deck and other obstacles where I can't use the blower and then blow it away.
Thankfully i have no hills to deal with.

 

[Yotekiller]

Fell a Oak Sunday, it had a big limb blown out of the top last year and wasn't doing to good at the end of the summer. I got 3 60" logs out of it. With as muddy it is around our place, I didn't want to try 80". Need to get back down to it and cut the rest of it up.

View attachment 148151

View attachment 148153

View attachment 148154

I've got the same grapple. That thing is built well and works great!

 

[EC135P3H]

Learned a painful lesson during my 50 hour service on the LX2610SU. The tractor had like 51.2 hours on it when I did the service. Of course I started it, moved all the hydraulics and re checked fluid levels.

I was in a rush and it was getting dark. Somehow I managed to leave the key in the position just before you activate glow plugs. So the dash was illuminated.

I didn’t figure this out until two days later when I pulled up to do some work at a farm and tractor battery was dead.

I jumped it off with my truck and low and behold, THE HOUR METER READ 70.4 hours!
Yep, the hour meter runs even though the engine wasn’t.

 

[dirtydeed]

On a side note, I have a flat bed, tilt deck equipment trailer with no sides. I load ALL my equipment on it for oil changes etc. I never have to crawl on the shop floor. The trailer deck is a whole easier to access tractor/equipment drain plugs and filters, etc.

That's a great idea. You could ditch the oil drain pan and treat your wood trailer deck at the same time. I like it.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

That's a great idea. You could ditch the oil drain pan and treat your wood trailer deck at the same time. I like it.

haha sure.

Might be to slick or pita to load equipment if/when it rains down here though.

 

[McMXi]

This is my second winter with the front blower and rear blade. Like you said, it fills fast and I find on the LX it starts to push the tractor around. I primarily use the blade to pull snow away from the house, deck and other obstacles where I can't use the blower and then blow it away.
Thankfully i have no hills to deal with.

Yeah, I would argue that rear blades are really designed to move heavy, dense material rather than snow. The moldboard height is lower and matched to the weight of the material to be moved. Snow blades have higher mold boards because snow is much less dense so designed to handle volume rather than mass. In fact, snow blades come with a warning that the blade is not designed to move heavy material so use with care.

I would occasionally use the rear blade behind the BX25 to do what you describe, but other than possibly upgrading the rear blower to a much more expensive pull forward type blower, I have just about the perfect set up on the MX. Not to say that the rear blade behind the M6060 isn't useful during the winter, but it will need to be extended in order for it do what I want/need. It wouldn't be much fun if I only had a bucket and rear blade for snow removal.

 

[RCW]

Yeah, I would argue that rear blades are really designed to move heavy, dense material rather than snow. The moldboard height is lower and matched to the weight of the material to be moved. Snow blades have higher mold boards because snow is much less dense so designed to handle volume rather than mass. In fact, snow blades come with a warning that the blade is not designed to move heavy material so use with care.

I would occasionally use the rear blade behind the BX25 to do what you describe, but other than possibly upgrading the rear blower to a much more expensive pull forward type blower, I have just about the perfect set up on the MX. Not to say that the rear blade behind the M6060 isn't useful during the winter, but it will need to be extended in order for it do what I want/need. It wouldn't be much fun if I only had a bucket and rear blade for snow removal.

True - - I have a rear blade for my BX and a front-mount blower.

Keep the rear blade and box blade stored where I can get to them in the winter, but seldom use either for snow.

Their utility is somewhat limited for snow. There's times I've used both because I needed them for one reason or another.

Typically get by with just the blower.

I'm at the point where I could raise my snowblower's shoes. I still leave 1.5" of snow.

Haven't done so because I've got a bunch of layers of sand on the driveway I don't want to throw, and just a few weeks away from when the blower would normally come off anyway. March is traditionally the peak of Maple Season here, so we often (hopefully) get some thaws....

We also get Blizzards in March (2 or 3(?) on March 14).......but still often have blower off before April 1.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

When I was letting the tractor warm up, I noticed a little bit of green spot under the tractor. It was antifreeze...I'm like hmmm. Looked arounded and traced it back to the radiator hose, leaking right where the clamp was so I snugged it up some and now no more leak! Easy fix. The coolant reservoir never dropped any, still a hair above full so super minor leak.

I will warn you when you have a leak like that it does not pull fluid from the reservoir back to the radiator.
So let it cool completely then open the radiator cap and check radiator fluid level directly.

 

[Kennyd4110]

I jumped it off with my truck and low and behold, THE HOUR METER READ 70.4 hours!
Yep, the hour meter runs even though the engine wasn’t.

Wow, I thought that issue was long fixed.

 

[dirtydeed]

haha sure.

Might be to slick or pita to load equipment if/when it rains down here though.

I treat mine with used oil...my preference has been used trans fluid. Works great and isn't slick at all...even when rain wet.

ATF Wet

ATF Dry

 

[mdhughes]

I've got the same grapple. That thing is built well and works great!

I have been really please with it.

 

[Old_Paint]

Orgin of those filters...?

On a side note, I have a flat bed, tilt deck equipment trailer with no sides. I load ALL my equipment on it for oil changes etc. I never have to crawl on the shop floor. The trailer deck is a whole easier to access tractor/equipment drain plugs and filters, etc.

Got 'em at the dealership, so where they actually come from, I can't answer, but hopefully they're still genuine Kubota filters in genuine Kubota boxes. The guys at the dealership are pretty good and very knowledgeable. They probably wouldn't intentionally steer me wrong. They're pretty happy when someone comes along with DIY oil changes in mind. They'd much rather do repair work than service work which keeps most of the repair customers a lot happier. If they fail or something in the tractor fails due to a filter, I've got photos and a sales receipt to back up the warranty. I've 100% stuck with OE fluids and filters since I bought it. It works hard for me, so I take care of it, and make sure I don't violate any warranty conditions.

The LX isn't too bad to get under if I take off the QH and the loader. Neither is hard to do, so no biggie. It's certainly a lot shorter then. It looks really weird without the loader. I can sit on a stool beside it to do the engine tasks but definitely going under for the transmission. If I put the mats down they'll insulate me from the cold slab and round off some of my sharp bones. Just gotta remember to wear some good CR gloves because last time I serviced it I got a pretty nasty nick when my strap wrench slipped off one of the filters. How those buggers get so tight is beyond me. I don't remember putting them on that tight. I use a filter wrench that is just a square tube that fits on a 1/2" drive socket and has a 1" wide nylon strap on it that just tightens up in either direction. I always put a little bit of oil on the o-ring to prevent it from sticking to the block or housing, and normally hand tighten it with the anticipation of snugging it snugging it up some more if I see a drip. The most dangerous one (for barked knuckles) is the engine oil filter. It's in a pretty tight place for tools, yet easy to get to. I learned the hard way to take the little fan belt deflector off to get the strap wrench on better. It's stainless steel and razor sharp on the edges. Makes me wonder why something like that would be so close to the fan belt, but hey, Kubota knew what they were doing, right?

It's raining, and I don't want to try to work on the tractor until it stops (because I have to park the FEL outside along with any 3P attachment I might have on it), so I guess harassing some poor soul at the Apple store is the next best thing. My phone stuck its head in the dirt after the last IOS update. If I wind up in jail over the phone, I hope the missus will bail me out. It's the last time I let the missus buy a used phone from anyone. She got this one from a neighbor that upgraded. First thing I did was a factory reset to start over. Worked well for a few months until the next IOS update. It's been a harrowing experience since. Of course, my provider and Apple are both willing to SELL me a new one. Why not GIVE me a new one since the IOS updates seem to have screwed this one up?

 

[Old_Paint]

Learned a painful lesson during my 50 hour service on the LX2610SU. The tractor had like 51.2 hours on it when I did the service. Of course I started it, moved all the hydraulics and re checked fluid levels.

I was in a rush and it was getting dark. Somehow I managed to leave the key in the position just before you activate glow plugs. So the dash was illuminated.

I didn’t figure this out until two days later when I pulled up to do some work at a farm and tractor battery was dead.

I jumped it off with my truck and low and behold, THE HOUR METER READ 70.4 hours!
Yep, the hour meter runs even though the engine wasn’t.

What year model is your SU? Mine's a 2019. Can't say I've ever left the switch on, so I wouldn't notice the problem.

Hope you're enjoying your SU as much as I have mine.

 

[biketopia]

I treat mine with used oil...my preference has been used trans fluid. Works great and isn't slick at all...even when rain wet.

ATF Wet

View attachment 148237

ATF Dry

View attachment 148238

Do you cut it with diesel or just ATF? I recently built a wood shed and planned to spray it with 50/50 used oil and diesel.

I'll have to get some pictures but last week I had a local company come to media blast the chassis of my C-10 project. The operator wasn't very good at taking visual clues, like he was sinking into the gravel driveway, but decided to pull down to the back of my property anyway. Pulled off the hardpack to try and u-turn and sank the truck and trailer, got it stuck, had to call for help, totally rutted the hell out of my yard and access road. So I'll have quite a few hours of seat time to try and fix that up so I don't rattle my insides out mowing this year.

Took a few days off and installed a chimney liner and hooked up a fireplace insert. Used the tractor to get the liner up on the roof. Also used it to clear an area for a wood shed.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

Got 'em at the dealership, so where they actually come from, I can't answer, but hopefully they're still genuine Kubota filters in genuine Kubota boxes. The guys at the dealership are pretty good and very knowledgeable. They probably wouldn't intentionally steer me wrong. They're pretty happy when someone comes along with DIY oil changes in mind. They'd much rather do repair work than service work which keeps most of the repair customers a lot happier. If they fail or something in the tractor fails due to a filter, I've got photos and a sales receipt to back up the warranty. I've 100% stuck with OE fluids and filters since I bought it. It works hard for me, so I take care of it, and make sure I don't violate any warranty conditions.

The LX isn't too bad to get under if I take off the QH and the loader. Neither is hard to do, so no biggie. It's certainly a lot shorter then. It looks really weird without the loader. I can sit on a stool beside it to do the engine tasks but definitely going under for the transmission. If I put the mats down they'll insulate me from the cold slab and round off some of my sharp bones. Just gotta remember to wear some good CR gloves because last time I serviced it I got a pretty nasty nick when my strap wrench slipped off one of the filters. How those buggers get so tight is beyond me. I don't remember putting them on that tight. I use a filter wrench that is just a square tube that fits on a 1/2" drive socket and has a 1" wide nylon strap on it that just tightens up in either direction. I always put a little bit of oil on the o-ring to prevent it from sticking to the block or housing, and normally hand tighten it with the anticipation of snugging it snugging it up some more if I see a drip. The most dangerous one (for barked knuckles) is the engine oil filter. It's in a pretty tight place for tools, yet easy to get to. I learned the hard way to take the little fan belt deflector off to get the strap wrench on better. It's stainless steel and razor sharp on the edges. Makes me wonder why something like that would be so close to the fan belt, but hey, Kubota knew what they were doing, right?

It's raining, and I don't want to try to work on the tractor until it stops (because I have to park the FEL outside along with any 3P attachment I might have on it), so I guess harassing some poor soul at the Apple store is the next best thing. My phone stuck its head in the dirt after the last IOS update. If I wind up in jail over the phone, I hope the missus will bail me out. It's the last time I let the missus buy a used phone from anyone. She got this one from a neighbor that upgraded. First thing I did was a factory reset to start over. Worked well for a few months until the next IOS update. It's been a harrowing experience since. Of course, my provider and Apple are both willing to SELL me a new one. Why not GIVE me a new one since the IOS updates seem to have screwed this one up?

I have been noticing more and more Kubota replacement parts have been coming from China.... So after the warranty is up, order the cheap clone filter(s) and cut one open and compare it to of the used "Kubota" ones.

 

[Siesta Sundance]

I treat mine with used oil...my preference has been used trans fluid. Works great and isn't slick at all...even when rain wet.

ATF Wet

View attachment 148237

ATF Dry

View attachment 148238

Thanks, will probably do that.