Fixing hole in side of block

[D2Cat]

all this talk of AI, but no one ever talk about HI

hillbilly intelligence

seal up hydraulic/diesel, give up on the last cylinder

View attachment 143531

all your fittings from your FEL, take them all out, glob it all in gasket, make them tight

there was nothing wrong with the fitting, you just didnt fasten it all the way

View attachment 143532

seal you everything

View attachment 143533

the diesel leak was so obvious, one of your injectors from all that pressure, come loose, you surgically seal it

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seal your diesel line

decision: you were defeated by that last hydraulic cylinder, clean it, and glob gasket maker around the seals, and hope for the best

go ahead and reassemble your hydraulic cylinder, and your hydraulic robot should not produce bubble since you seal up all hydraulic route, and your engine should not sputter out since you solved the diesel leak

you should be able to carve earth today even if one of your hydraulic cylinder still leak a bit, the hydraulic system should not produce bubble and your robot should function fine

View attachment 143536

do you a hillbilly rebuild, glob gasket maker and hopefully the pressure pushes it into the leaking area

mistake, why you were not light on your feet:

all of those leaks could have been fixed in a day or less, you were heavy on your feet, striking away, not thinking

come you back to being light on your feet

Beautiful work!

 

[L35]

Beautiful work!

That ought to do it this time I’m thinking.

 

[joesmith123]

hydraulics work, but still leaking cylinders

unbelieveable, the 2 cylinders you fully sealed are leaking,

but the 2 cylinders that defeated you are not leaking

wrap your head around that narrative while you go change the shape of your realm

machine fully stuck in the dirt, hydraulics doing same thing, work when its cold, then nothing when it get hot, add some more fluid

add you 5 gallon hydraulic fluid, there are about 10 gallons of fluid total inside

describe what happens: turn on your engine, hydraulics work, 5 minutes later, hydraulics lock up

there are zero visible leaks, and you can see ton of fluid inside transmission, not bubbly

there is whining when hydraulics work, zero whining when they dont work

3 point hitch works fine when hydraulics work, does not work when hydraulics lock up

some dinosaur probably know the problem, go take off your hydraulic filter and see whats inside

take of cover of filter, let it spill out, work for 15 minute, hydraulic lock up

take you out your filter, boom, your hillbilly instinct was right

filter fully clogged, the fluid dirty

clean it surgically, put it in, run it for time, take it out do it again

probably good to do a complete fluid flush

surgically clean you everything, zero fluid was able to go through it

proof that the answer is usually way simpler than you think

send them message that you are out the office changing the shape of your reality

Gosling crane and a gander rod
A humped backed mule and ground up sod

 

[Lil Foot]

hydraulics work, but still leaking cylinders


View attachment 143544

unbelieveable, the 2 cylinders you fully sealed are leaking,

but the 2 cylinders that defeated you are not leaking

wrap your head around that narrative while you go change the shape of your realm

 

[Sidekick]

But the seat has a new cover .

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I have to wonder if this is a junk yard with that fence in the background, and these tractors were junked.

Yes, that is a junkyard and those tractors are being very methodically turned into junk, one part at a time.

Now go wash your hands with diesel before dinner.

 

[Russell King]

Quote —> “probably good to do a complete fluid flush”

Yes that is probably a good idea…

 

[joesmith123]

L295DT changing the shape of your earth, give haters a little snack

L295DT swinging around that big steel bucket with big force leveling out your reality, diesel engine purring

dip stick not showing oil, your engine eating your oil

give the haters a little something will ya?

its harder to start once she is hot because I think too much oil inside combustion chamber

please nature let it be something fixable in the head and not something where you gotta take off the loader

but you can still manage it, you can spray gasoline into intake when cranking, it helps alot

dont be mad your diesel engine eating its own oil, just be happy your diesel engine eating period

Once you get a second, go you back in the thread 15-20 page, and you can see:

@North Idaho Wolfman called it out when we saw oil coming out exhaust hole 2

then someone said it could be that seal on the head, i did not change those, they are 45 year old

go back in the log and reread what they said

She only eat oil under load, does not eat oil when idling

witness you full blown cold start

starts right up, but if hot, then more oil in combustion area putting your diesel ratio out of whack

December 5, 2024

youtube.com

L295DT lost her mind, trying to break a cinderblock in half,

she declare -

"why did you torture yourself for so long and I was right there waiting for you to heal me?!"

zero rebuttal from you

only once you plane out your realm do you realize how crooked it was

yes, let that purring diesel, carve out your reality, along with its little hydraulic pump,

together moving your unit, the exact fashion you imagine, with zero effort

let L295DT reveal to you the beauty of your earth while you pick the next boxcar song

(this is a paid ad against machine that need input from you at all time)

starter fluid: no, it does nothing, has zero effect on starting it when hot

only thing that works: spin you that injecton pump without engine compression, pump diesel into your combustion chamber, until the diesel wash away the oil

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

dip stick not showing oil, your engine eating your oil

give the haters a little something will ya?

its harder to start once she is hot because I think too much oil inside combustion chamber

please nature let it be something fixable in the head and not something where you gotta take off the loader

but you can still manage it, you can spray gasoline into intake when cranking, it helps alot

dont be mad your diesel engine eating its own oil, just be happy your diesel engine eating period

Wholly Moley!
We have reached a whole new load of insanity where we are spraying Gasoline into the Diesel engine to start it!

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Wholly Moley!
We have reached a whole new load of insanity where we are spraying Gasoline into the Diesel engine to start it!

That's the way old, cold diesel engines were started, no problem there. (here's all the details)

 

[Tarmy]

What is the over/under on what explodes/quits/enters orbit first?

Engine
Hydraulics
Radiator
Other



Joe gets style points from me for stamina on this….build.

 

[RCW]

Joe - - you got it moving! Great shakes, but you definitely have some things to attend to.

 

[Henro]

Only seven more posts to reach 1000!

Let’s go Joe!

 

[NCL4701]

Only seven more posts to reach 1000!

Let’s go Joe!

Six…

 

[Tarmy]

Here to bump MY post count so I look important…

Five

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

That's the way old, cold diesel engines were started, no problem there. (here's all the details)

That method would is fine for a dual fuel 50's International, but alas nope it's a 70 Kubota that he's dumping gasoline into the intake.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

That method would is fine for a dual fuel 50's International, but alas nope it's a 70 Kubota that he's dumping gasoline into the intake.

However both seem to have the necessary "low compression during starting," it's just that the old International had a lever, the newer Kubota does not.

 

[jaxs]

Wholly Moley!
We have reached a whole new load of insanity where we are spraying Gasoline into the Diesel engine to start it!

Ordinarily that might cause a problem but in this case I really don't think it will matter. I just hope this thing doesn't blow a hole in other side of block and start the process over.
Relax, you were stressing earlier over renewing o-rings and seals with rtv rather than replacing them but as can be seen in post 983 the filter caught excess pieces so that Joe was able to surgically cleaned them out.

 

[Ktrim]

So, disassemble & clean all parts, check bore for size & pitting, (and if within tolerance) hone bore, polish ram, replace wear ring, replace all seals & o-rings, replace spring key, lube all parts with clean hydraulic fluid, and reassemble, and pressure test.
Right?

 

[joesmith123]

1000 post into it, and your $2500 investment acting like $20,000 machine

L295DT come back to life to plane out your existence

unbelieveable, turns out there was ZERO coolant in your engine

You carved 20-30 hour of earth with ZERO coolant in your engine

You point to it showing them where you think it is evaporating:

This used to be a temperature gauge, you put some sealer on it thinking it was good enough,

no, your an idiot, it has been evaporating this whole time and has been BONE DRY for the past few days that your machine has been smoking

Soak in that narrative while you go and SEAL with ton of jb weld that crevice

It was not your fault that much but still, check your fluid daily until you hash out all the problem

gob you up that area with jb weld while concluding:

dont assume that you got it in the bag and let your guard down,

make you all your mistake with this engine until you learn all the detail that matter

witness your L295DT shaping your realm

after running for 30 hours straight over heating the whole time

Oil boiling out of the head and the chooch vent, with the oil pressure going down to 10 psi

Lugging the earth for you, with ZERO coolant

Then, you put the coolant back in, and now you can lug earth 6 times faster than without coolant

You tried to give hater a snack, diesel engine said no.

You cant believe it even if you see the receipt

yes, here is your L295DT doing a wheelie in high gear and the bucket fully down on the ground

2 wheel drive, lugging the earth for you, diesel engine purring with more power than you can use