L4150 Repair Restore

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm just going to throw this in there:
I wouldn't be investing 2K into it, I'm just cheap that way.

I've updated my thinking after looking at your pic of you holding the bushing over the shaft.
It's not a traditional bearing surface that has to rotate all the way around like a spinning shaft.

I would Mig weld or Tig weld it up and then just grind it to bushing tolerance, it doesn't have to be perfect as it's not spinning or doing 100MPH down the hwy.
You have good surfaces on the inside and outside end to use as a guide.

Three ways I can see to get the old bushing out:"
1: Cut a slot or two in it, I use a vibrating tool or a reciprocating saw.
These last 2 are based on if you can get behind the bushing.
2: If you have a three jaw puller that will fit behind the bushing then you could pull it.
3: Reinstall the broken thrust washer weld weld the 2 halves together than use that to push the bushing out.

 

[CiscoRanger]

can you grind/cut a groove in the bushing with a dremel tool? What is the material of the bushing? Brass/bronze or steel material?

I might try a three jaw puller and push against a bolt that is “disposable” instead of the thrust collar adjustment bolt.

I also think that it could be turned out on a lathe if there is some sort of protruding nut where the bolt screws into.

Thanks Russell. It’s steel. Interesting idea using the threaded adjustment hole. Thx.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Back to thequick question of the day…

What is the best, proper or acceptable way, and correct tool for removing a bushing from a blind hole? I’d rather not try to cut it out with a torch If I can avoid it.

View attachment 102516

Blind bearing puller. or bushing splitter.

Absent one I would put a piece like that on a mill or drill press and bore it out.

Dan

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I was wondering how you'd get it out.
* Can you get an inside puller on the inner shoulder?
* Drill most of it out, then collapse the thin remainder?
* Fit a smooth rod to the i.d. Half fill the bore with thick grease and slide the rod in. Hit or press the rod and hope the pressure on the grease pushes the bushing out. No, I've never done this but it sounds cool.
* Cut or grind a slot in it. If you score the housing a little it's no big deal.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I was wondering how you'd get it out.
* Can you get an inside puller on the inner shoulder?
* Drill most of it out, then collapse the thin remainder?
* Fit a smooth rod to the i.d. Half fill the bore with thick grease and slide the rod in. Hit or press the rod and hope the pressure on the grease pushes the bushing out. No, I've never done this but it sounds cool.
* Cut or grind a slot in it. If you score the housing a little it's no big deal.

There is no shortage of speciality tools for these situstions. These split collet pullers have a super positive grip and are very effective.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

I was wondering how you'd get it out.
* Can you get an inside puller on the inner shoulder?
* Drill most of it out, then collapse the thin remainder?
* Fit a smooth rod to the i.d. Half fill the bore with thick grease and slide the rod in. Hit or press the rod and hope the pressure on the grease pushes the bushing out. No, I've never done this but it sounds cool.
* Cut or grind a slot in it. If you score the housing a little it's no big deal.

Thanks guys. Great ideas. i considered welding a plate inside with a nut and pulling it with a bolt. If a torch really is the best way I can do that and go slow. I just don’t want to cut the housing.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Thanks guys. Great ideas. i considered welding a plate inside with a nut and pulling it with a bolt. If a torch really is the best way I can do that and go slow. I just don’t want to cut the housing.

Did you read my post?
I pointed at a way to do it like you are thinking.
Just pull out the original thrust adjustment bolt and replace with a longer bolt.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Did you read my post?
I pointed at a way to do it like you are thinking.
Just pull out the original thrust adjustment bolt and replace with a longer bolt.

Good morning, I did. I was going to look and see if there’s enough of the washer left, to pull that off. Thinking on your idea of building the shaft up with welds as well. And how to make it smooth enough where it won’t just eat through the new bushing in short order.

Thanks for those suggestions.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Good morning, I did. I was going to look and see if there’s enough of the washer left, to pull that off. Thinking on your idea of building the shaft up with welds as well. And how to make it smooth enough where it won’t just eat through the new bushing in short order.

Thanks for those suggestions.

If you can live with a cobbled repair take a hand grinder and remove the ridge on the end of the trunnions and do a little clean up on the worn segment. Make a new (sloppy fit) bushing to match the reduced diameter of the trunnion. It should be "good enough" to solve your misalignment issue.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

If you can live with a cobbled repair take a hand grinder and remove the ridge on the end of the trunnions and do a little clean up on the worn segment. Make a new (sloppy fit) bushing to match the reduced diameter of the trunnion. It should be "good enough" to solve your misalignment issue.

Dan

In my mind having the top and bottom (where the ridge is) a smaller diameter than the sides, is going to continue to allow the axle to cant even with a thicker bushing because there’s such a large difference between the diameters by almost .100. Especially since the bushing is only holding 70% of the shaft. I think I have to build up the top to try and get it as close to the side diameter of 1.913 as possible to help the new bushing hold it. Maybe a hybrid of weld buildup, grinding and smooth finish with some epoxy might get it done.

My sons wedding is in a week so, I probably have to set this aside til after that, which means I’ve got some time to overthink this.

 

[TheOldHokie]

In my mind having the top and bottom (where the ridge is) a smaller diameter than the sides, is going to continue to allow the axle to cant even with a thicker bushing because there’s such a large difference between the diameters by almost .100. Especially since the bushing is only holding 70% of the shaft. I think I have to build up the top to try and get it as close to the side diameter of 1.913 as possible to help the new bushing hold it. Maybe a hybrid of weld buildup, grinding and smooth finish with some epoxy might get it done.

My sons wedding is in a week so, I probably have to set this aside til after that, which means I’ve got some time to overthink this.

I dont follow - my suggestion removes the ridge. Also looking at the parts book that trunnion looks to be nothing more thanb a cross pin welded into a stamped steel axle section. Cut them off flush, bore out the center, and weld in a new pin for a "real" repair.

Edit: Whoops - you have a DT which is a different beast. This is what you are working with? Are both trunnions FUBARed?

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

the trunnion is currently an oval where the bushing sits. the ridge exists because the bushing doesn’t sit there. If I grind the ridge off the top, it’s still out of round by almost .100. Most of that .100 is on top. the new bushing would have to have an ID of at least 1.939 to fit over the sides, leaving that .070 or so gap at the top still.

seems To me I’d either need to reduce the side to side diameter to match the top and bottom (and grind off the ridge) or just build up the top behind the ridge to match the side to side diameter.

 

[CiscoRanger]

I dont follow - my suggestion removes the ridge. Also looking at the parts book that trunnion looks to be nothing more thanb a cross pin welded into a stamped steel axle section. Cut them off flush, bore out the center, and weld in a new pin for a "real" repair.

Edit: Whoops - you have a DT which is a different beast. This is what you are working with? Are both trunnions FUBARed?

Dan

View attachment 102575

Yes, both are fubar...front is much worse.

 

[TheOldHokie]

View attachment 102574

the trunnion is currently an oval where the bushing sits. the ridge exists because the bushing doesn’t sit there. If I grind the ridge off the top, it’s still out of round by almost .100. Most of that .100 is on top. the new bushing would have to have an ID of at least 1.939 to fit over the sides, leaving that .070 or so gap at the top still.

seems To me I’d either need to reduce the side to side diameter to match the top and bottom (and grind off the ridge) or just build up the top behind the ridge to match the side to side diameter.

Yes, yes, and yes. Its WTF out. Use a hand grinder to clean it up and make it round as best you can and make a new bushing to fit. That trunnion is almost 2" in diameter - you have lots of meat left on the bone to work with. It ain't factory perfect but IMO its better than any other idea so far.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

Update: I can’t believe it’s been 2 months. My goodness time flies. Got my kiddo married off and life settled down a bit so I came back out to check on the Cheeto.

When we left off I was trying to figure out an approach to fix the worn axle boss

I finally decided on getting a pipe weld grinder attachment ($80) and mig welding it up, as @North Idaho Wolfman and I had discussed. Honestly, I was pretty worried about messing this thing up.

I started out laying down some short beads on the top half, staying away from the edges so I could use those as a guide. I’m clearly not a professional welder, so I’m happy to laugh at these with you.

From there it was a matter of grinding down, filling in some holes, some more grinding, etc…about 3 iterations.

Until finally we were about at the diameter I needed.

It turned out a lot better than i thought it was going to, for sure. I missed the diameter by about .015 on the small side, so I’ll probably hit it with JB weld and form it with the bushing so everything is nice and tight. Glad that is done. have to do the other side tomorrow.

have a great night y’all!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Update: I can’t believe it’s been 2 months. My goodness time flies. Got my kiddo married off and life settled down a bit so I came back out to check on the Cheeto.

When we left off I was trying to figure out an approach to fix the worn axle boss

View attachment 107842

I finally decided on getting a pipe weld grinder attachment ($80) and mig welding it up, as @North Idaho Wolfman and I had discussed. Honestly, I was pretty worried about messing this thing up.

I started out laying down some short beads on the top half, staying away from the edges so I could use those as a guide. I’m clearly not a professional welder, so I’m happy to laugh at these with you.

View attachment 107843

From there it was a matter of grinding down, filling in some holes, some more grinding, etc…about 3 iterations.

View attachment 107844

Until finally we were about at the diameter I needed.


View attachment 107845

It turned out a lot better than i thought it was going to, for sure. I missed the diameter by about .015 on the small side, so I’ll probably hit it with JB weld and form it with the bushing so everything is nice and tight. Glad that is done. have to do the other side tomorrow.

View attachment 107846

have a great night y’all!

Looks great!

 

[CiscoRanger]

Looks great!

Thank you sir. Appreciate your help as always. That pipe grinder is awesome. Well worth the $ and I don’t think it would look like it does if I’d used a flap disk.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Update: I can’t believe it’s been 2 months. My goodness time flies. Got my kiddo married off and life settled down a bit so I came back out to check on the Cheeto.

When we left off I was trying to figure out an approach to fix the worn axle boss

View attachment 107842

I finally decided on getting a pipe weld grinder attachment ($80) and mig welding it up, as @North Idaho Wolfman and I had discussed. Honestly, I was pretty worried about messing this thing up.

I started out laying down some short beads on the top half, staying away from the edges so I could use those as a guide. I’m clearly not a professional welder, so I’m happy to laugh at these with you.

View attachment 107843

From there it was a matter of grinding down, filling in some holes, some more grinding, etc…about 3 iterations.

View attachment 107844

Until finally we were about at the diameter I needed.


View attachment 107845

It turned out a lot better than i thought it was going to, for sure. I missed the diameter by about .015 on the small side, so I’ll probably hit it with JB weld and form it with the bushing so everything is nice and tight. Glad that is done. have to do the other side tomorrow.

View attachment 107846

have a great night y’all!

Thats better than good Seesco

What did the machine shop want to do that - a grand plus?

In that application I doubt its worth your time fretting over .015

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

Thats better than good Seesco

What did the machine shop want to do that - a grand plus?

In that application I doubt its worth your time fretting over .015

Dan

Thanks Dan, I appreciate it. You're right. I just know loose tolerances accelerate wear, but yes, I'm being OCD.

$2,000 - 4,000. So far, we are money ahead. We'll see how tomorrow goes.

 

[DustyRusty]

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