L4150 Repair Restore

[Nicksacco]

Hey @CiscoRanger - interesting work. Kindly post pics once you get everything to your satisfaction!

 

[CiscoRanger]

Good morning, and Happy Mother’s Day to all the mothers out there.

The front axle bushings finally arrived and I will update more on that later. Hoping to get started on JB welding the shafts today.

Quick question: What is the best, proper or acceptable way, and correct tool for removing a bushing from a blind hole? I’d rather not try to cut it out with a torch If I can avoid it.

 

[Nicksacco]

Hey Cisco.
I'm also curious to see what others suggest.
The first thing that comes to mind is a lathe if it could be chucked.
I used a plasma cutter on mine and gently (low voltage) made striations down the length.
A bearing puller might work if you have room. Based on my experience bushings are really a tight interference fit

 

[CiscoRanger]

Hey Cisco.
I'm also curious to see what others suggest.
The first thing that comes to mind is a lathe if it could be chucked.
I used a plasma cutter on mine and gently (low voltage) made striations down the length.
A bearing puller might work if you have room. Based on my experience bushings are really a tight interference fit

Thanks Nick. Did you have to repair the axle pivot bosses? Or just new bushings?

 

[Nicksacco]

In my case the bushings were for my swing cylinder mounts on the BT900.
There's 4 of them. See https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/bt900-refurbishment-and-fun-part-2.63259/

 

[CiscoRanger]

Cool. Nice work, Nick!

 

[Nicksacco]

Thanks Cisco.
First however, I beat myself up trying to bang the 2 out of the bottom swing frame with a large hammer and various drivers!

I believe heat is going to be your friend on this endeavor!

 

[TheOldHokie]

Your idea on the sleeve got me thinking if i cant find one, I may be able to just have these guys make one to the max current OD of the boss, to the correct ID of the new bushing. Then JB it in there. That’ would help it be as centered as possible, and got to be a little more cost effective than 2k per side. Hell, I could do that in a couple hours with a lathe and a piece of round stock.

No need for a bushing in a bushing. Just drill housing oversize and make one oversize bushing.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

No need for a bushing in a bushing. Just drill housing oversize and make one oversize bushing.

Dan

Thanks Dan. I think I’ve jettisoned the secondary bushing idea. It’s hard to describe in text, but initially I thought some sleeves (should have used that word instead) may be easier to use for the build up of the boss, than using the new bushing. Because the new bushing is only about 60% of the total length of the boss. I’ll post up pics if I ever stop drinking coffee on the porch.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Thanks Dan. I think I’ve jettisoned the secondary bushing idea. It’s hard to describe in text, but initially I thought some sleeves (should have used that word instead) may be easier to use for the build up of the boss, than using the new bushing. Because the new bushing is only about 60% of the total length of the boss. I’ll post up pics if I ever stop drinking coffee on the porch.

I have done similar repairs using a shop made bushing. I am not familiar with your exact situstion but generally a piece of cake.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

I have done similar repairs using a shop made bushing. I am not familiar with your exact situstion but generally a piece of cake.

Dan

You’re gonna make me get up and walk over to the shop, aren’t you?

 

[TheOldHokie]

You’re gonna make me get up and walk over to the shop, aren’t you?

No - I just sat down at my PC and looked back through the pictures, Its only a couple hours max to bore and sleeve those mounts with a milling machine and lathe. Good as new.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

No - I just sat down at my PC and looked back through the pictures, Its only a couple hours max to bore and sleeve those mounts with a milling machine and lathe. Good as new.

Dan

Ok, tell me where I am thinking wrong on this one.

The axle boss goes into the axle support housing, all the way through and past the busing until it hits the thrust collar and the lash adjustment screw. So the bushing is not intended to be as long as the boss, and since it is shorter, if the wear on the boss is not brought back to spec, the axle housing and bushing will fall right back into that same wear groove.

This is roughly where it rides on the boss.

So, my two options (according to the awesome people on here) to bring the boss back to spec diameter are to have someone weld and turn down, or I use the new bushing as a form to fill the wear spots with JB Weld.


I had considered using a sleeve (as @PoTreeBoy had pointed out) the length and proper factory OD of the boss and epoxying that in. So it wouldnt really be 2 different bushings, just a fixed sleeve, riding in a bushing. It would go into the housing, through and past the bushing. The issue was, no one makes a .010 sleeve that length. max I found was about half the needed length.



The housing seems fine, so I'm not sure I understand why I would want to bore that out.

Hope this helps?

 

[TheOldHokie]

Ok, tell me where I am thinking wrong on this one.

View attachment 102510
The axle boss goes into the axle support housing, all the way through and past the busing until it hits the thrust collar and the lash adjustment screw. So the bushing is not intended to be as long as the boss, and since it is shorter, if the wear on the boss is not brought back to spec, the axle housing and bushing will fall right back into that same wear groove.

This is roughly where it rides on the boss.
View attachment 102509

View attachment 102511 So, my two options (according to the awesome people on here) to bring the boss back to spec diameter are to have someone weld and turn down, or I use the new bushing as a form to fill the wear spots with JB Weld.


I had considered using a sleeve (as @PoTreeBoy had pointed out) the length and proper factory OD of the boss and epoxying that in. So it wouldnt really be 2 different bushings, just a fixed sleeve, riding in a bushing. It would go into the housing, through and past the bushing. The issue was, no one makes a .010 sleeve that length. max I found was about half the needed length.



The housing seems fine, so I'm not sure I understand why I would want to bore that out.

Hope this helps?

Bear with me - I am catching up.

If I understand this the problem is wear on the male part the fits inside the bushing?

If so can you not turn it undersize and make an undersize bushing to match. Just like turningva crankshaft journal and fitting undersize bearings.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

Bear with me - I am catching up.

If I understand this the problem is wear on the male part the fits inside the bushing?

If so can you not turn it undersize and make an undersize bushing to match. Just like turningva crankshaft journal and fitting undersize bearings.

Dan

Hi Dan.

Yes the male shaft part.

Yes that can be done. i called a bunch of machine shops from Fort Worth to Abilene, and the ones that will do it want a couple thousand for both bosses (shafts). They also offer to weld up and turn to factory spec. I could do this myself also, but I don’t have a mill. At this point, never having actually worked the tractor, I’m hesitant to drop that kind of $ until I know there are no other major problems lurking that will appear when I start working it. If everything goes good for a season, I may have this repair done to fix it correctly. Or buy a used mill and do it myself.

leaving it the way it is makes the front drive shaft sit canted and it leaks the hydraulic fluid out of the seal, and the 80w90 out of the diff. I could leave the drive shaft off, but continuing to run it like this is just going to wear the shafts worse.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi Dan.

Yes the male shaft part.

Yes that can be done. i called a bunch of machine shops from Fort Worth to Abilene, and the ones that will do it want a couple thousand for both bosses (shafts). They also offer to weld up and turn to factory spec. I could do this myself also, but I don’t have a mill. At this point, never having actually worked the tractor, I’m hesitant to drop that kind of $ until I know there are no other major problems lurking that will appear when I start working it. If everything goes good for a season, I may have this repair done to fix it correctly. Or buy a used mill and do it myself.

leaving it the way it is makes the front drive shaft sit canted and it leaks the hydraulic fluid out of the seal, and the 80w90 out of the diff. I could leave the drive shaft off, but continuing to run it like this is just going to wear the shafts worse.

OK - got it now - that arrangement is called a trunnion mount and the worn pins are called trunnions. I still see no justification for a 2K repair price. How undersize, out of round, and off center are the trunnions?

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

OK - got it now - that arrangement is called a trunnion mount and the worn pins are called trunnions. I still see no justification for a 2K repair price. How undersize, out of round, and off center are the trunnions?

Dan

I captured the measurements here in post #260

L4150 Repair Restore

Go back and read the above post as I edited it:

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[TheOldHokie]

I captured the measurements here in post #260

L4150 Repair Restore

Go back and read the above post as I edited it:

www.orangetractortalks.com

Over a tenth of wear on the axle trunnions. I dont see many reasonable options.

• Grind under and fit custom bushing
• Weld up and grind to stock.
• Cut old trunnions off, bore axle for new through trunion and press or weld trunnions into bore

First and last seem the easiest.

Dan

 

[CiscoRanger]

Over a tenth of wear on the axle trunnions. I dont see many reasonable options.

• Grind under and fit custom bushing
• Weld up and grind to stock.
• Cut old trunnions off, bore axle for new through trunion and press or weld trunnions into bore

First and last seem the easiest.

Dan

I know. And that’s the minimum wear.

I was so close to being done with this thing, too.

Back to thequick question of the day…

What is the best, proper or acceptable way, and correct tool for removing a bushing from a blind hole? I’d rather not try to cut it out with a torch If I can avoid it.

 

[Russell King]

I know. And that’s the minimum wear.

I was so close to being done with this thing, too.

Back to thequick question of the day…

What is the best, proper or acceptable way, and correct tool for removing a bushing from a blind hole? I’d rather not try to cut it out with a torch If I can avoid it.

can you grind/cut a groove in the bushing with a dremel tool? What is the material of the bushing? Brass/bronze or steel material?

I might try a three jaw puller and push against a bolt that is “disposable” instead of the thrust collar adjustment bolt.

I also think that it could be turned out on a lathe if there is some sort of protruding nut where the bolt screws into.