If the shaft moves in the case the pinion bearings are shot. If that's the case (no pun intended) you'll need to overhaul the differential. Have you checked the front diff lube level to see if it is low?
Good morning Nick. It’s True! Hopefully this is one of the final things for now. Would like to start disc’ing.Cisco-
This reminds me of all the stuff I found when going thru my L35 and the song by the Fixx.
Man that axle was heavy!
Keep going - it's worth fixing...
Thank you for the kind words, Dick. And you’re right, so many folks have jumped in and invested themselves in my project here. I’m beyond grateful.I just wanted to chime back in to say how nice it is to see you (and other posters) still interested in this L4150's return to a full life. I think you and this machine have become serious friends. Someday you may adopt another project but the thoroughness you've brought to this one is something everybody appreciates - especially as the world seems to move toward a throw-away culture.
Years ago, my first tractor - an 8N - was replaced by a Kubota 345DT and I was hooked on Orange. The L345 was great for many things but for pulling an orchard sprayer the L4150 had better power and mass. One day I saw one for sale and bought it on the spot. It was the perfect tractor, gobs of power, sure-footed pulling a load, everything always worked, no oil leaks ever.
This machine is definitely worth the fine job you're doing. Best luck - great project . I just skimmed through the whole thread - thanks for all of it. Dick B.
The boss had some honey do’s for me this morning assembling and filling some garden beds.Grab a hold of the shaft like a gorilla and shake, does the shaft move in the case?
If it doesn't you might be right.
I don't know if you can remove just the rear support, but worth a try.
Thanks Tom. I think she found them at epicgardening.com. The brand is “Birdies”. They are a little proud of them, but they last. The left 4 have been out there for 5 years and are indistinguishable from the new 4. Heavy gauge galvanized steel that Is then powder coated. And they bolt together in different configurations. Square. Rectangle, etc.Those raised garden beds look great. Where did you find them?
Tom
Similar planters (*82" x 23" x 29" tall) are $349 each on Gardner's Supply website.Thanks Tom. I think she found them at epicgardening.com. The brand is “Birdies”. They are a little proud of them, but they last. The left 4 have been out there for 5 years and are indistinguishable from the new 4. Heavy gauge galvanized steel that Is then powder coated. And they bolt together in different configurations. Square. Rectangle, etc.
$349/per. Holy cow. Too rich for my blood too! These are probably the 17” style.Similar planters (*82" x 23" x 29" tall) are $349 each on Gardner's Supply website.
Too rich for my blood.
Lowe's has much lower ones (only 17" tall ) on sale for $114.99
Ok that’s great! Thanks. Haven’t made it to the manual yet but that’s encouraging. Maybe the front dust seal is the same.Don't pull the housing on the rear, the seal comes out without pulling the housing off.
GM wolfman. still not totally clear on how the axle support fits in to this repair. Seems like it would be difficult to pull all those seals (axle support seal, 070 seal, 030 seal, and 020 oil seal out of the diff body through the axle support, and reinstall through it also. The axle support thrust washer looks like it blocks access to the diff seal, but it’s not clear from the wsm drawing. No specific procedure in there about the seals.The bevel cases (where you were greasing) your just forcing grease into the bevel case, it's not going to hurt anything but don't need to over grease those joints.
The front shaft seals will make all of that mess in the front, there is 2 seals and a O-ring up there that will need to be replaced.
I'm pretty sure you will need to remove Nut 40 to be able to set all the seals out.
I personally would do it with diff cover still on and the axle still in and the wheels on the ground.
If the nut doesn't want to come off with it together, then you'll have to get serious with it and pull it all apart.
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@North Idaho Wolfman I got all the seals we talked about except Im having trouble sourcing the collar seal "020" (Kubota #35350-43220). I talked to Messicks and the local dealer, and no one is showing it as available. I'm not sure how that interacts with oil seal 070, and if I'd be ok not changing that for now. Curious what your thoughts are on it? Thanks.The bevel cases (where you were greasing) your just forcing grease into the bevel case, it's not going to hurt anything but don't need to over grease those joints.
The front shaft seals will make all of that mess in the front, there is 2 seals and a O-ring up there that will need to be replaced.
I'm pretty sure you will need to remove Nut 40 to be able to get all the seals out.
I personally would do it with diff cover still on and the axle still in and the wheels on the ground.
If the nut doesn't want to come off with it together, then you'll have to get serious with it and pull it all apart.
View attachment 100502
Did you also try Colemans?@North Idaho Wolfman I got all the seals we talked about except Im having trouble sourcing the collar seal "020" (Kubota #35350-43220). I talked to Messicks and the local dealer, and no one is showing it as available. I'm not sure how that interacts with oil seal 070, and if I'd be ok not changing that for now. Curious what your thoughts are on it? Thanks.
Hey good evening, Fried. No i had not checked with them directly, but I just did, and they dont show anything with that part number. Thanks for the suggestion!Did you also try Colemans?
They are also a mega dealer like Messick's, though possibly Messick's may have already checked with them.