Can a mod change the thread title to "Bought the wrong model truck and now I'm mad"?
I removed both retractors and buckles. i still have them. What does the computer need to hear from these retractors though in order to turn off the airbag light.The dealer monkeys have no way to program the system to ignore rear seat belts.
Did you remove just the buckles, or the retractors too?
You won’t be able to just jump the two pins on the buckle , light will still be on, they use a Hall effect switch for the buckle sensors.
No weight sensors in the rear seats.
I don’t see the key in chime as programmable either on our side, Forscan possibly, but I can’t say for sure.
Mcfarmall said it best
or wrong makeCan a mod change the thread title to "Bought the wrong model truck and now I'm mad"?
This isnt the issue. The issue you are talking about is easy to defeat on the superduty.I use seat belt extenders (Amazon or eBay) in my Toyota. Plug them into the seatbelt receptacle & the truck is happy (no chime). I use them when a cooler or dog trip the weight sensor. Or just motoring around the farm at 5 mph & don’t want to be safely strapped in.
Im burning 1 quart of oil every 4000 miles in a 20k mile truck. Ford says thats acceptable up to 1 qt per 3000 miles. Its still under factory warranty
I like Elon Musk as wellThread hijacking is not cool. This thread is about a user disabling safety equipment.
FYI, an air bag will probably kill you if you trigger it while not wearing a seat belt. If you are keeping it slow, you probably won't trigger the bag. IIRC, it takes 25 MPH to trigger it.I use seat belt extenders (Amazon or eBay) in my Toyota. Plug them into the seatbelt receptacle & the truck is happy (no chime). I use them when a cooler or dog trip the weight sensor. Or just motoring around the farm at 5 mph & don’t want to be safely strapped in.
It has pretensioners in the retractors that it needs to see, along with the sensors in the buckles.What does the computer need to hear from these retractors
I know Forscan can get rid of the door chime, among other things. Not sure on the airbag light. Try checking the superduty forum, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum5/My 2020 Dually 7.3 F350 worktruck is an extracab. I took out the back seats to make room for tools and in the process, removed the rear seatbelts. Since then my airbag light has been on, presumably because seat belts arent hooked up. So I took to the dealership to disable those seatbelts due to there being no seats as well as some warranty work and they say they cant disable those because its a safety issue, liability blah blah blah.
So i say, actually, having my airbag light on all the time is a safety issue because if i there is a fault in my front airbag system (where the seats actually are) i wont know because the light is always on. They say yeah good point but sorry no can do. Oh and we cant put a safety inspection sticker on because your airbag light is on...lol
So is there a fix or workaround for tricking the system? If i put the seatbelts back it will be in the way of my tool area.
Also is there a way to disable the key in ignition, door open chime? If youre in construction you will understand.
Should i or could i use Forscan to fix/disable these things? Anyone else deal with this?
second that. I would think that someone on there would have already figured out how to do it with Forscan.I know Forscan can get rid of the door chime, among other things. Not sure on the airbag light. Try checking the superduty forum, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum5/
IM looking into cost of forscan. Might be worth it just to disable the door chimeI know Forscan can get rid of the door chime, among other things. Not sure on the airbag light. Try checking the superduty forum, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum5/
The Forscan software itself is free. But I bought this needed tool off Amazon to ‘send’ my changes I wanted to make to my 2020 F250.IM looking into cost of forscan. Might be worth it just to disable the door chime
IM looking into cost of forscan. Might be worth it just to disable the door chime
I loved my 6.7 up to the point i had a wire issue with a nox sensor. Traced it down over a couple weekends, fixed it with a new wire. All was goodexcept the computer wanted to disable the truck in xx number of miles and counting because of the emmision fault even though it was fixed. Had to be reset by the dealer otherwse i was going to be left stranded for a no longer existing probem. Cost $450 because they said they had to check my work before they did the reset.I have the real 7.3L in the form of a 2002 F250 7.3L. I love that truck. I bought it from a good friend (American Airlines pilot) who moved to Hawaii and didn't want to take it with him. He bought the truck new in 2002 and sold it to me about five years ago for $8k with only 117,000 miles on it. I added a chip and programmer from DP-Tuner and it's a great truck and going strong at almost 170,000 miles now. I need to change the glow plugs since a few are bad which makes starting in cold weather kind of difficult.
I've owned a lot of Fords including Super Duty's, Rangers, Mustangs (SVT), Contour (SVT), F150 and my first car, a Fiesta. I like Ford products in general, particularly the Super Duty models, but my old Ford has no DPF, no DEF, and has a Banks exhaust from the turbo back. Great truck!! $85k for a new Super Duty just isn't in my immediate future, but if I were looking for a new truck I'd be looking at Ford first despite the inflammatory title of this thread.
I used my old Ford to pull the M6060 600 miles from Sheridan, WY to Kalispell, MT over four mountain passes. The truck, trailer and tractor, plus two dogs, two spare tires, a Decked system in the bed, and a SnugTop came in a little under 20,000lb. The only hill that was a struggle was the 6% grade out of Missoula. In 3rd gear with the peddle to the floor all I could do was 55mph for 5 miles but we made it. There are times when I wish I had more hp and torque, and one day I'll upgrade the turbo, hp oil pump, injectors, transmission etc. .... one day.