At a minimum a 6 amp. But, if you have the $$, bigger the better.
I see that switch now has a black w/ white stripe wire on it.
By chance, is there a black w/ white wire anywhere near the ignition switch wiring?
Yes, but now I'm wondering if the black/white wire might have fallen out of the connector, and someone stuck the green in there by mistake.B/w was the other side of the green no? Checking chargers.
No it was like that for sureYes, but now I'm wondering if the black/white wire might have fallen out of the connector, and someone stuck the green in there by mistake.
I went back and re-read your original post and seen that it was like that from the beginning.No it was like that for sure
Post 19 has a schematic on how the relay works.Question on those relays. All those I have seen like that have a schematic on one side that shows x1, x2, c, no, nc contacts. Do they have anything like that or at least a part number on them?
Start now. Key soon after. lolI went back and re-read your original post and seen that it was like that from the beginning.
Alright, now the question is....
Do you want this to start using the key and insure all of the safety switches work?
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Do you just want it to start?
I actually have a more powerful old school charger but it's not here...Start now. Key soon after. lol
Since.i do.have a charger and always wanted a battery pack. Would the latter work now or do I need a proper 2/4/6/8 amp charger? The latter appears best Price/ performance available now.
I will go back out and check.You could use the small charger to bring the battery back up over time, but it will take a while.
The battery packs are nice to have in case of emergency, but the larger amp battery chargers are better for a dead batter.
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If you want it to start now, turn the key to on, connect the red wire to the starter's battery post like I asked you to do earlier to get the starter to engage. Might need to turn the key to the glow plug position for a bit first if it is cold where you are.
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Take that red wire and cut/splice it into the green wire. If you do this, you'll need to make sure that the green wire is fully seated into the plug. Later on, you can figure out what switch is causing the problem.
I would clean up/shorten all of the wiring going to the relay and get it up out of the way to ensure something doesn't happen to it.
This would require a battery fully charged though!
All the ones iv used have 85,86,87 (87b), 30Question on those relays. All those I have seen like that have a schematic on one side that shows x1, x2, c, no, nc contacts. Do they have anything like that or at least a part number on them?
I can't find the post where you asked me to do one more test . To boost the battery, I could start a motorcycle and connect it up if needed. I will leave the trickle on overnight. I could also get the tractor to run, maybe and leave it on fast to charge no?You could use the small charger to bring the battery back up over time, but it will take a while.
The battery packs are nice to have in case of emergency, but the larger amp battery chargers are better for a dead battery.
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If you want it to start now, turn the key to on, connect the red (85/86) wire to the starter's battery post like I asked you to do earlier to get the starter to engage. Might need to turn the key to the glow plug position for a bit first if it is cold where you are.
-Or-
Take that red (85/86) wire and cut/splice it into the green wire. If you do this, you'll need to make sure that the green wire is fully seated into the plug. Later on, you can figure out what switch is causing the problem.
I would clean up/shorten all of the wiring going to the relay and get it up out of the way to ensure something doesn't happen to it.
This would require a battery fully charged though!
S i could consider this if I don't figure out those 2 switchesYou could use the small charger to bring the battery back up over time, but it will take a while.
The battery packs are nice to have in case of emergency, but the larger amp battery chargers are better for a dead battery.
******
If you want it to start now, turn the key to on, connect the red (85/86) wire to the starter's battery post (with the 30/87 going to the terminal that had the black wire) like I asked you to do earlier to get the starter to engage. Might need to turn the key to the glow plug position for a bit first if it is cold where you are.
I did this and started it. When's it's warmer, I'll turn it up and it will charge...
-Or-
Take that red (85/86) wire and cut/splice it into the green wire. If you do this, you'll need to make sure that the green wire is fully seated into the plug. Later on, you can figure out what switch is causing the problem.
I would clean up/shorten all of the wiring going to the relay and get it up out of the way to ensure something doesn't happen to it.
This would require a battery fully charged though!
I deleted that last message of mine. I found where the white wires you have connected needs to go. Leave them connected.I can't find the post where you asked me to do one more test . To boost the battery, I could start a motorcycle and connect it up if needed. I will leave the trickle on overnight. I could also get the tractor to run, maybe and leave it on fast to charge no?
I am leaving it run to charge. Thank you so much. If ever you need anything from Canada or the Montreal region +/- 100 miles, please let me know in case I can return the favour. I will have to pull the wheels off and figure out how to test those switches I guess or just order 2 and change them both? You figure that is the issue? Until then I could just hotwire it rather than splice wires and bypass the safety features. I have one quick job to do and can order those tomorrow then do the other stuff after it works properly and I close up the sides.I deleted that last message of mine. I found where the white wires you have connected needs to go. Leave them connected.
Whatever you can do to charge that battery up, do it. No need to be in a hurry for me. If you want to leave the smaller charger on overnight, that should work.
Here is what your final wiring needs to be if you want to bypass the safety switches.