Dual rear remotes on my B2650

[rkidd]

I see there is some interest in my remote project, which is great. I have to apologize for the lack of pics now. A while back when trying to up load pics for a new thread, I some how deleted all of the pics on all of my threads which was extremely disappointing to say the least. I didnt know it was even possible to do that! It would be a daunting task to upload all of the pics again. I did check and there is nothing the administrators can do. If any body is interested in a certain pic, let me know and I will reload it.

 

[Chad D.]

Ok. Just about done. I Found what appeared to be a usable 14mm x #6 JIC banjo, but it was waaaaayyyy too small to try to bore out. Rather than order another one like Eipo used, I decided to modify what I had. I cut apart the long banjo tube from the 3rd function kit that feeds the 3PH and made my own banjo with a little TIG welding.

rather than bending the handles, I rotated the valve body just a hair off straight when mounting, so the levers are in a good spot. Question for Eipo though... You mentioned the float position being further from center than the first valve you had. My Bucher, which is the same as yours, seems to be a long ways. I’ve got my float valve in the same spot, but the valve handle hits the metal pan beneath it right as it goes into the float detent. I haven’t tried it with pressure on it yet, but it seems like it may not work unless I bend the handle up a good bit.
Something I was able to do though, was retain my seatbelt. I flipped the retractable pard around and bolted it through the fender, just above the valve stack. There was a hole the correct size just waiting for me! I’ll share a photo when it’s all done... may not be quite as strong as the original mount, but I bet it’ll hold me if I ever tip over. I did place a good sized washer under the nut to help distribute the load. I bet the fender may bend, but I doubt it would fail any easier than the long piece of flat bar and the leverage that would be prying against the single fastener...

 

[Chad D.]

Taaa daaaahhhhh. If it fits, it ships! It’s a tight fit, but it certainly did. Many thanks to RKidd and Eipo for making this thread the success that it is. I would not have put this together without the detailed information that was provided!

as you can see in the photos, my install is almost identical to Eipo’s, with the addition of the seatbelt. The XL fittings I had must not have been quite as tall as his, because I had to splay to QD fittings out a touch to make them usable. I didn’t use any NPT other than the drain line barb fitting and the QD adapters, so mine is fairly compact.
The home brew banjo fitting worked perfectly, and seems to be holding pressure just fine. Time will tell on fhat one...

Now, time to get another cylinder and make that rake spin!!!

 

[eipo]

Very nice!

 

[B3350orbust]

All wrapped up. My original intent was to run this around the back side, but the 3 point arm would interfere with it in the raised position. I sized the hose to run that way, so it was a relief when it was the PERFECT length to run around the front of the seat support and under.

Here is the banjo to JIC fitting.....

This shows the power beyond port at the loader valve.... I did have to loosen the connection just above this to spin in the fitting, but it didn't need much.

Now for some part numbers....

From Surplus Center...

Valve: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydra...rince-MB21GB5C1-DA-Valve-w-Float-9-7862-F.axd

Cylinder: https://www.surpluscenter.com/Brand...Double-Acting-Top-Link-Cylinder-9-7682-08.axd

Sae 8 Oring to 3/8 female pipe thread 90 for the power beyond at the loader valve. This replaces the Kubota part which is a SAE 8 Oring to 3/8 male pipe thread that you have to put a 90 onto anyway : https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/6805-08-06-8-saeorb-male-x-38-nptf-female-90.html

3/8 male pipe thread by male pipe thread for the 90 in the loader PB port: https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/5404-06-06-38-nptf-male-x-38-nptf-male.html

From there you'll make up a hose with a Female swivel pipe thread to connect to the PB port and run to the valve.

For the PB port on the valve to the 3 point, whatever manner of fitting at the valve to accomplish the connection based on where you mount the valve.... But You can replace this part...

https://www.messicks.com/part/7j056-84300/tube-pb-fl

With this one....

https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/3059-06-06-38-male-jic-x-38-bsp-banjo.html

And save yourself some more money AND not have the hose connection hanging down closer to the tire. The hole that the banjo bolt goes through did need to be reamed out a little... My bolt measured 16.84mm and the banjo hole was 16.72mm. I chucked a drill bit into the cordless drill and opened the hole up till the bolt fit. Took about 5 minutes.

The rest of the fittings are whatever you need to make it work on your tractor. The banjo bolt for the 3 point is a 6, or 3/8 BSPP thread.

Will you show/tell me how you tied into the tank port from the fel? I think I understand the rest....

 

[joearizona]

when I had my hose made up for the power beyond return I had a Banjo & new Banjo Bolt added & i was simple to install

 

[eipo]

Will you show/tell me how you tied into the tank port from the fel? I think I understand the rest....

Are you referring to the PB port from the loader valve? The "tank" portion of the system is low pressure and simply requires a T.

 

[B3350orbust]

Are you referring to the PB port from the loader valve? The "tank" portion of the system is low pressure and simply requires a T.

 

[B3350orbust]

Yes the t port, I know where it’s located on the loader valve. Did you cut the hose add a tee, then run a hose to the valve body? What size hose and is it a specific type? My prince valve instructions state the return to tank pressure is 500psi. The hose on the tractor looks a little thick....
I’m impressed with the work you have posted and it has empowered me to upgrade my tractor as well.

 

[Chad D.]

Yes the t port, I know where it’s located on the loader valve. Did you cut the hose add a tee, then run a hose to the valve body? What size hose and is it a specific type? My prince valve instructions state the return to tank pressure is 500psi. The hose on the tractor looks a little thick....
I’m impressed with the work you have posted and it has empowered me to upgrade my tractor as well.

You’ll find that the molded hose from the FEL valve is actually easy to cut a tee into. It’s also simply hel in with basic hose clamps, so you don’t need anything super special.
To be clear, this hose is painted dark grey and comes out of the loader valve pointed to the right side of the machine. It looks a lot like a formed tube, as it has a quick 180° bend so the flow heads to the left side and into the tank.
I was able to lay under my B2650, and reach up with my knife to cut the hose between the 180° bend and the tank. I cut ~1/2” out of the hose for the takeout of a tee.
as mentioned early in this thread, the hose is not a standard SAE size. I believe it is 10mm, which is just a RCH bigger than 3/8”. A readily available tee that will work is a 1/2” PEX (plumbing tubing) tee from Home Depot. It fit in the drain hose beautifully. I used 3/8” Goodyear Insta-Grip hose from the rear remote valve to the new tee on the drain. It was a pain in the ass to get that hose on! I had to sand the barbs down a ways, But got it.
In the end, it all worked perfectly.

 

[B3350orbust]

You’ll find that the molded hose from the FEL valve is actually easy to cut a tee into. It’s also simply hel in with basic hose clamps, so you don’t need anything super special.
To be clear, this hose is painted dark grey and comes out of the loader valve pointed to the right side of the machine. It looks a lot like a formed tube, as it has a quick 180° bend so the flow heads to the left side and into the tank.
I was able to lay under my B2650, and reach up with my knife to cut the hose between the 180° bend and the tank. I cut ~1/2” out of the hose for the takeout of a tee.
as mentioned early in this thread, the hose is not a standard SAE size. I believe it is 10mm, which is just a RCH bigger than 3/8”. A readily available tee that will work is a 1/2” PEX (plumbing tubing) tee from Home Depot. It fit in the drain hose beautifully. I used 3/8” Goodyear Insta-Grip hose from the rear remote valve to the new tee on the drain. It was a pain in the ass to get that hose on! I had to sand the barbs down a ways, But got it.
In the end, it all worked perfectly.

 

[B3350orbust]

Thanks again, I’m stoked about this upgrade, I’ve read this several times but didn’t quite get the return to tank info...

 

[Chad D.]

Thanks again, I’m stoked about this upgrade, I’ve read this several times but didn’t quite get the return to tank info...

That was the toughest part to figure out for me, as well. Also the hardest part of the install, simply due to my big hands in a small space. Doable, but bring your patience... And two beers.

 

[B3350orbust]

I finished my remotes today, it all went pretty smooth. I used an Upunar expander on the return tube so the tee went in pretty well. No leaks, I’m waiting for the top link to try it out. Does anyone have a suggestion for a lift arm cylinder?

 

[B3350orbust]

I finished my remotes today, it all went pretty smooth. I used an Upunar expander on the return tube so the tee went in pretty well. No leaks, I’m waiting for the top link to try it out. Does anyone have a suggestion for a lift arm cylinder?

 

[MidwestMike]

I know this is an old thread but I thought it would be easier to keep the information in one place. Please let me know if a new thread would be best. (especially considering the length.. )

I’ve been reading everything to that I could find for the last few weeks, time for some (dumb?) questions and comments and see what the people with the true experience have to say.

I believe I understand the hydraulic flow and plumbing theories….

Started looking for option for grapple, once I’m playing I figured add what I can for the rear. TnT and maybe another available port.

Eipo’s valve mount looks good, but what is done when also wanting to add forward lines for a grapple?

I see Chad D had the forward 3rd function already, and worked with the hose going from there to the 3PH.

• Suggestions on getting a forward grapple line from the rear valve?

I had some strange thoughts….
You aren’t using top/tilt and grapple at the same time. And chances are you are working with front remotes OR rear, depending on the project.

It would be hard to fit more than a two spools by the seat, you could have grapple line plumbed back there and plug in when needed, > which would be the least desirable.

• Could you put a T in the lines and run it up to the front, then disconnect the rear (TnT) when using the grapple?
• Another thought would be a solenoid activated diverter to run to the grapple
  • This would be based on mounting valves on the left side of the seat, so right hand on joystick, left hand on grapple.
  • > Could you mount these valves on the left..?
• And my most out of the box type thought, a single spool valve under the left side of the seat, with 3 or 4 solenoid operated valves stacked, to make something like Summit’s Hydraulic Multiplier Kit.

https://summit-hydraulics.com/produ...ve-including-couplers-and-switch-box-control/

• You can get these for $100 each, and specials for half that price. They draw 2.5 amps each, so no selection would be for the grapple, the item with the most run time would not draw any current. Then flip one switch for Top, second switch for Tilt, and even have one more available.
• So until I find a 4th accessory, 5 amps would be the most you would use while adjusting TnT, and would be fine with the ROPs dynamo.

Open any thoughts, comments or topic updates I may have missed, Thanks!

 

[6feettogo]

I just ran hoses from the rear to the valve and from the front to the valve. Takes a minute to change from one to the other. I forced out the ball on the 2 outside male connectors so that when putting on the hoses it would not make contact so the fluid would not leak out. The pvc on the bottom is there just to catch what little fluid that does drip.

 

[Chad D.]

I know this is an old thread but I thought it would be easier to keep the information in one place. Please let me know if a new thread would be best. (especially considering the length.. )

I’ve been reading everything to that I could find for the last few weeks, time for some (dumb?) questions and comments and see what the people with the true experience have to say.

I believe I understand the hydraulic flow and plumbing theories….

Started looking for option for grapple, once I’m playing I figured add what I can for the rear. TnT and maybe another available port.

Eipo’s valve mount looks good, but what is done when also wanting to add forward lines for a grapple?

I see Chad D had the forward 3rd function already, and worked with the hose going from there to the 3PH.

• Suggestions on getting a forward grapple line from the rear valve?

I had some strange thoughts….
You aren’t using top/tilt and grapple at the same time. And chances are you are working with front remotes OR rear, depending on the project.

It would be hard to fit more than a two spools by the seat, you could have grapple line plumbed back there and plug in when needed, > which would be the least desirable.

• Could you put a T in the lines and run it up to the front, then disconnect the rear (TnT) when using the grapple?
• Another thought would be a solenoid activated diverter to run to the grapple
  • This would be based on mounting valves on the left side of the seat, so right hand on joystick, left hand on grapple.
  • > Could you mount these valves on the left..?
• And my most out of the box type thought, a single spool valve under the left side of the seat, with 3 or 4 solenoid operated valves stacked, to make something like Summit’s Hydraulic Multiplier Kit.

https://summit-hydraulics.com/produ...ve-including-couplers-and-switch-box-control/

• You can get these for $100 each, and specials for half that price. They draw 2.5 amps each, so no selection would be for the grapple, the item with the most run time would not draw any current. Then flip one switch for Top, second switch for Tilt, and even have one more available.
• So until I find a 4th accessory, 5 amps would be the most you would use while adjusting TnT, and would be fine with the ROPs dynamo.

Open any thoughts, comments or topic updates I may have missed, Thanks!

As for adding a quick/inexpensive/easy control for grapple, I would much rather put a manual diverted on the FEL curl/dump circuit. That would allow you to raise/lower the grapple, as well as open/close with one hand on the same stick. I believe that using one hand for up/down and the other to grab would be terribly inconvenient.

 

[biketopia]

First off, sorry for the thread bump. Been a long time lurker first time poster. I've been going over this thread and I'm ready to pull the trigger on adding rear remotes on my B2650 but was hoping for a picture, or a little better clarification from @Chad D. or any one on how they did this on a machine already equipped with 3rd function.

I did the 3rd function kit from Summit Hydraulic 3 years ago to run a grapple. Works great but uses the PB & T port typically tied into for adding the rear remotes. I reached out to Summit before finding this thread and their recommendation was to add one of these splitters but that seems overly complicated/expensive.
Can I "tee" into the PB and T ports going to the 3rd function kit to run the rear remotes, add the low pressure drain line and be good to go? Or can/should I them in parallel, remove the connection at the T port from the 3rd function, run that into the rear remotes, then a line to the T port on the loader valve and low pressure and I'm good? I'm only looking to run a hydraulic top link, maybe do a TnT set up way down the road.

 

[Russell King]

First off, sorry for the thread bump. Been a long time lurker first time poster. I've been going over this thread and I'm ready to pull the trigger on adding rear remotes on my B2650 but was hoping for a picture, or a little better clarification from @Chad D. or any one on how they did this on a machine already equipped with 3rd function.

I did the 3rd function kit from Summit Hydraulic 3 years ago to run a grapple. Works great but uses the PB & T port typically tied into for adding the rear remotes. I reached out to Summit before finding this thread and their recommendation was to add one of these splitters but that seems overly complicated/expensive.
Can I "tee" into the PB and T ports going to the 3rd function kit to run the rear remotes, add the low pressure drain line and be good to go? Or can/should I them in parallel, remove the connection at the T port from the 3rd function, run that into the rear remotes, then a line to the T port on the loader valve and low pressure and I'm good? I'm only looking to run a hydraulic top link, maybe do a TnT set up way down the road.

You cannot tee into a power beyond port or line. The pressure will always go towards the valve that is not trying to move a cylinder. The pressure line must come from the pump to a valve (FEL) out the power beyond port to the next valve P in port out the power beyond port of the valve (rear remotes) and then to the tractor 3PH pressure feed. I have no idea about the 3rd function valve but it may have to be the first valve then FEL. I know there have been treads on this same subject so you should search for other threads.

Each valve will need a tank return but they can all enter the tractor at a single point if needed. The tractor 3PH valve does not need a tank return just to be clear.

Go to FitRite Hydraulics for some helpful tips and pictures