Hey Paul. Sorry. I just saw this post. Yes they are pioneer.What hydraulic fitting does your Kubota use ? Are they pioneer or what ?
The item number of the top link cylinder is 9-7682-08 I have used it quite a bit and works very well. I did mount it with the lock valve down for clearance for my tool box.Hello,
Could you please share the part number on the Hydraulic top link you purchased from Surplus Center?
Thanks in advance...
Dragland
Hopefully it works out for you. They are very handy to have!I wish I knew about rear remotes and TnT when I was buying a tractor. I would have preferred to have the dealer install them from the get-go and roll that cost into my financing.
Always smarter in hindsight!
However posts like yours give me hope that I can still some day install rear remotes! I called the dealer and they kinda brushed me off assuming I didn't want to spend $2k to have them installed. Maybe in a year or two (after I convince the wife I need to dump more $$$ into my tractor) I'll order some parts.
Kidd, aside from the 2 kubota fittings, the valve and hoses, and the T for the return line.... Are there any other parts to add to this?Hey Eipo. The spool valves I used from Surplus Center is 9-7862-F. It is a double spool valve with one having a float. To tie into the new valve, you need to feed it from the loader valve from the power beyond port which feeds the 3 point. You have to remove the existing steel line that goes from loader valve to the 3 pt. Kubota makes the adapters to tie back into. They make a new tube that goes from the 3pt that you go to from power beyond from new valve. The other adapter is just a fitting that goes into the loader valve power beyond port that feeds the pressure port on the new spool valves. That is the one that has the 90 degree fitting going to it in the bottom pic of my post #2. In that same pic you can see the new tube that goes to the 3pt. The part numbers for those are 7j056-84432 and 7j056-84300. For the return from the new valve, I tee'd into the return line from the loader valve to the transmission. I will get some more pics later. Hope this helps.
Kidd, aside from the 2 kubota fittings, the valve and hoses, and the T for the return line.... Are there any other parts to add to this?
Are you using the float spool for the top link?
No specific purpose right now, but sure wanted to have it in the future if the need arose. For the money difference and all of the suggestions from other members, I wanted to have the option for whatever use comes up in the future. For me all of the work to do it, I wanted to do it right the first time and not regret not having it.So is there a specific purpose for one of your spools being float? The non float version of the Prince 2 spool valve is about $100 cheaper.
One reason to own a "float valve" is with a three point mounted disk. A float valve would allow the disk to be pulled by the lower links while the top link allows the disk (primarily the rear gangs) to float along the contour of your land. However......you have negated this effect with that cylinder which has a stop in it. I just bought a cylinder which does not have the stop.....for this very reason. A three point disk (or some other implements) may work better if they are allowed to float, just as the drag links do......and simply pulled by the lower drag links.No specific purpose right now, but sure wanted to have it in the future if the need arose. For the money difference and all of the suggestions from other members, I wanted to have the option for whatever use comes up in the future. For me all of the work to do it, I wanted to do it right the first time and not regret not having it.
Kidd,
Is the retracted length on the cylinder end to end or eye to eye?
The cylinder has worked great for everything. When using my boxblade or any other of my impliments, I have plenty of travel on the cylinder in or out. I have never had a problem not being able to retract enough. The reason it looks long on my ballast box, is that when I fabbed it I didnt make the top link holes as high up as they should have been from the 3 pt arms. I didnt know about that dimension when I made it. I think it should be 18" and mine is like 14".Thanks.... Thats just a hair longer than the toplink that comes with the 2650 in its retracted state. I was worried, based on the picture of your ballast box, that the cylinder would be to long in its retracted state.
No problem. You are surely welcome.Thanks again for taking the time to answer my questions.
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