my kubota b2920. aux beam light bar forwards and two 6 led auxbeam lights backwards.
Post your ROPS light mounting pics
- Thread starter Burgie
- Start date
My B3200 setup: front mount 22" led light bar, 2 rear facing led spotlights and a rear facing emergency light bar mounted onto 1/4" angle iron. No holes drilled by securing with u-bolts.
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savoy9020
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
G1800, L2501 (2016) 5ft LP box 2004 F250 6.0 Lariat Supercrew 2017 1140D RTV, 2
Nice Job on the 22". I am looking to do the same with my 2501.
I have 2 x 22", also have got 2 x 32 (420watt) but that's 35 amps out of the poor L2501's 40 amp alternator.
-wsh
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
I have 2 x 22", also have got 2 x 32 (420watt) but that's 35 amps out of the poor L2501's 40 amp alternator.
-wsh
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
OC455
Member
Equipment
BX2350 LED ROP, FEL, Belly mower,modified snow blower, pole boom, middle plow
Do I spy a deuce and half in the driveway?Here is my 22" light bar.
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Light bars are clean looking install.
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
OC455
Member
Equipment
BX2350 LED ROP, FEL, Belly mower,modified snow blower, pole boom, middle plow
Hey everyone, this is what I came up with. Thanks for your posts, it helped me a lot with my install.
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Great thread. Great ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Here is my contribution to the thread.
LED lights are really cheap now. I got these for around $25 a pair, and I have seen them for even less.
I attached angle iron with holes/slots via square u-bolts to the ROPS. I might paint the angle iron ROPS gray or black, but for now I am just testing the attaching of the light, so the metal color is fine.
Since all the lights I bought are attached via a bolt, the angle iron with holes/slots provides great flexibility in mounting the lights. Easy to move them as well.
I still need to secure the wiring and add an on/off switch. Right now they are wired into the preexisting work light wire and come on when the tractor is running. So, temporarily, to turn them off I simply unplug one of the bullet plugs.
For the rear, I found that I only needed one rear light facing downwards to light up the back and sides enough to be able to see where I am going in reverse.
For the front, I have one light straight forward and the ones on each side angled out slightly to cast light out at an angle - total of three.
In complete darkness I can see all around the tractor with the lights set up the way I have them. What a positive difference! I can easily cut the grass or do snow removal work at night now.
Here is my contribution to the thread.
LED lights are really cheap now. I got these for around $25 a pair, and I have seen them for even less.
I attached angle iron with holes/slots via square u-bolts to the ROPS. I might paint the angle iron ROPS gray or black, but for now I am just testing the attaching of the light, so the metal color is fine.
Since all the lights I bought are attached via a bolt, the angle iron with holes/slots provides great flexibility in mounting the lights. Easy to move them as well.
I still need to secure the wiring and add an on/off switch. Right now they are wired into the preexisting work light wire and come on when the tractor is running. So, temporarily, to turn them off I simply unplug one of the bullet plugs.
For the rear, I found that I only needed one rear light facing downwards to light up the back and sides enough to be able to see where I am going in reverse.
For the front, I have one light straight forward and the ones on each side angled out slightly to cast light out at an angle - total of three.
In complete darkness I can see all around the tractor with the lights set up the way I have them. What a positive difference! I can easily cut the grass or do snow removal work at night now.
Attachments
OC455
Member
Equipment
BX2350 LED ROP, FEL, Belly mower,modified snow blower, pole boom, middle plow
You sure do! Actually 1 of 2 [emoji6]Do I spy a deuce and half in the driveway?
Thanks I appreciate it!
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[/QUOTE]Thank you!
Well just upgrade the alternator!
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Finally, it is done.
I decided that as I drop the ROPS in summer for grass cutting and one of my doors is a little low I wanted a system that allowed for the quick and easy removal of the light bar.
I decided to use track section and drilled and tapped 2 1/3 inch fixing into the ROPS, this will have no bearing on the integrity of the bar and again I used the pre-existing hole to run the wires.
Having mounted the channel I then made up 2 aluminium bars to mount 2 forward and 2 rear facing lights. With the mounting able to pivot it allows me to redirect the lights quickly and with a single central bolt remove each bar. Wired back to 2 25 amp IP67 switches via 30 amp relays. The flashing beacon is magnetic and moved from tractor to truck in minutes, powered from the cigar lighter socket.
I decided that as I drop the ROPS in summer for grass cutting and one of my doors is a little low I wanted a system that allowed for the quick and easy removal of the light bar.
I decided to use track section and drilled and tapped 2 1/3 inch fixing into the ROPS, this will have no bearing on the integrity of the bar and again I used the pre-existing hole to run the wires.
Having mounted the channel I then made up 2 aluminium bars to mount 2 forward and 2 rear facing lights. With the mounting able to pivot it allows me to redirect the lights quickly and with a single central bolt remove each bar. Wired back to 2 25 amp IP67 switches via 30 amp relays. The flashing beacon is magnetic and moved from tractor to truck in minutes, powered from the cigar lighter socket.
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Installed my rear facing lights today!
The last three were shot in complete darkness with just the led lights on. I think that will work!!
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The last three were shot in complete darkness with just the led lights on. I think that will work!!
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Thought I would share my ROPS light mounting project. It started out as a simple design. I used a piece of 1X3 rectangle tubing with 3/8-inch threaded rod connectors welded to it to support it from the ROPS. Between the tubing and the ROPS is a piece of conveyor belting. This went well until I tried to mount the light bar bracket to the tubing, the bracket broke. So, I made my own bracket. Part way into it I figured that if I had to make one that held 1 light, I might as well make it to have 2 lights. This is what I came up with.
