B7100 with a slight mechanical issue.

[Daren Todd]

Sweet, looks like Christmas came a little early

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Do you know what it came out of?

 

[Grumpy560]

Do you know what it came out of?

Sorry Wolfman, I don't know anything of its origins other than it being a D950-A crate engine with 0 hours on it. I don't think its ever been mated to anything other than a testing station when it was manufactured but don't quote me on that because I don't know the history on the engine I have.

 

[OldeEnglish]

I bet the extra ponies from the d950 will be well worth your effort, excellent job and I can't wait to see the finished product. If I may ask... The motor you purchased on eBay... Was it from the company that offers crate engines for around $3500?

 

[Grumpy560]

I bet the extra ponies from the d950 will be well worth your effort, excellent job and I can't wait to see the finished product. If I may ask... The motor you purchased on eBay... Was it from the company that offers crate engines for around $3500?

Thanks,

No I did not buy this engine from the company that sells them on eBay. I bought it from an individual seller on eBay not affiliated with the other company.

Please excuse some of my last post about this D950 being a 'crate engine' as it was thought to be. After a very lengthy talk with Wolfman this morning (thanks Sean) it turns out that this is NOT a factory crate engine.

I'll let Wolfman chime in here and explain if he wishes to do so as he knows way more than I do about this engine.

 

[Pepperbrew]

Good luck, and Merry Christmas !

 

[OldeEnglish]

I hope Wolfman will share his knowledge on the situation, I'm very interested in your project and wish you the best of luck.

 

[Grumpy560]

Alright, I've decided to temporarily reassemble the front portion of the tractor. I'm doing this so I can figure out the alternator and belt drive situation along with the new location of the lower coolant hose.

I wanted to do this now so I wouldn't scratch up my freshly painted panels during reassembly.

Here I have bolted the rear engine plate in place, bolted the engine to the rear portion of the tractor and then installed the front frame and axle assembly. I don't have a new clutch kit yet and I have to take everything back apart again so I didn't bother installing the flywheel.

I went to the local pick n pull yard today and pulled alternator brackets from 3 various cars. Only one of these brackets will allow the alternator to be suspended up high but the actual mounting bracket will have to be made.

 

[Grumpy560]

I had to remove the oil pan to get the front frame bolted up. The lower end is remarkably clean so I covered it up with plastic to help keep out any debris that might get in there while I'm working on the accessory bits.

I'll swap out the oil sump and pan from the old D750 after the pan has been painted. Since I have an early D950 going in, my original PTO shaft fit perfectly in place.

Now the hard part for me begins..............

 

[ShaunRH]

You do NOT let grass grow under your feet do you Grumpy!? Wow, coming right along and it looks like a pretty straightforward bolt up... or are you just making it look easy?

 

[MagKarl]

Glad to hear it looks great inside. I just cringe when I see oil filters painted with the engine, makes me wonder.

 

[Grumpy560]

You do NOT let grass grow under your feet do you Grumpy!? Wow, coming right along and it looks like a pretty straightforward bolt up... or are you just making it look easy?

Thanks,

Yes, the engine is a direct bolt up, that was the easy part. Oil pick up tube, oil pan, starter, rear engine plate, flywheel, intake and exhaust manifolds all swap over from the old D750 to the D950.

Since I'm not that good at modifying things to fit I'll need to have a specialist do that for me, this is whats going to slow me down.

1. Find suitable alternator that, A) is common with a V pulley. B) small in size.
2. Have alternator mounting brackets made.
3. Take radiator to a shop that can modify the inlet/outlet ports to match the engine ports.
4. Find the correct fuel shut off solenoid and have a mounting bracket made.

So, its not a simple swap, there are some minor obstacles to deal with and I'll deal with them one at a time. Look at the pics below and you will see what's fixing to happen here................

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Glad to hear it looks great inside. I just cringe when I see oil filters painted with the engine, makes me wonder.

The reason they are painted is that that motor has never been run, No heat marks anywhere, It's a new "used" motor.
I'm sure that Grumpy will change them when he's got it all installed!

 

[Grumpy560]

At it again, got my new clutch kit in yesterday. I've ordered a 45amp alternator, fuel stop solenoid and a new temp sender unit since my engine did not come with one.

Since I had the gasket kit already it was time to get something done. So today I pulled the front frame back off and replaced the damaged front engine cover, that took me about 4 hours. I installed a new front crank oil seal and a new oil filter went on.

I bolted the front frame back on and installed the radiator again. I used some small washers to space out the fan and pulley away from the water pump to give me a better idea where the fan belt needs to go since I'm going the dual belt route on this swap.

I'm going to move the radiator forward 1/4 inch and shave 1/8 inch off the fan blade to give me more room between the two.

I'm also "thinking about" relocating the battery, modifying the throttle linkage and installing a 5 gallon fuel tank from a B7200 that has a sender unit for a fuel gauge, but only when I'm done with the cooling and charging systems first.

I have made a drawing of the alternator bracket that I want to make or have made for me. I won't know how it will work out yet and I'm not going to have my alternator till the 31st.

 

[coachgeo]

....

I'm going to move the radiator forward 1/4 inch and shave 1/8 inch off the fan blade to give me more room between the two. ...

There is a possibility that fan will flex enough that more than 1/8th may need to be removed. You might consider going to a thin electric from a Junk Car or new.

 

[Grumpy560]

There is a possibility that fan will flex enough that more than 1/8th may need to be removed. You might consider going to a thin electric from a Junk Car or new.

Thanks, yes I did consider a 12" slim fit electric fan. I might go that route if what I'm trying doesn't work out.

 

[Grumpy560]

Got the radiator moved forward about 3/8 of an inch and that gives me plenty of room between the fan blade and radiator. I slightly trimmed the lower inside lip of the hood where it meets the radiator in front.

I still have room to space out the fan pulley if i need too as I used washers behind it temporarily to get an idea where the belt should run to be inline with the alternator. When I get it set where it needs to go I'll figure out how to space it properly.

I need to take the radiator to the shop and have the lower outlet tube changed from 1 3/8" to a 1" outlet and have the inside cleaned out. I'm going to leave the top inlet the way it is.

 

[Apogee]

Steve,

One more alternator link for more ideas. This ended up being very similar to the dual belt factory Kubota setup.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9923&highlight=single+belt+alternator

(Not sure if you've ever seen this thread, but wanted to make sure you did if you hadn't)

Steve

 

[Grumpy560]

Steve,

One more alternator link for more ideas. This ended up being very similar to the dual belt factory Kubota setup.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9923&highlight=single+belt+alternator

(Not sure if you've ever seen this thread, but wanted to make sure you did if you hadn't)

Steve

Yep, that thread was posted on here a few pages back I believe. That was a very well done conversion and its the way I'm going to do mine. That conversion was on a D750 with the original throttle linkage in place. The D950 has a separate stop lever on the side of the injection pump that requires either a hand cable or a electric stop solenoid mounted right below the new alternator. Its easy enough mounting either of the two by themselves but one right on top of the other leaves very little space if any at all.

I was going to take the tractor to work with me today but the heavy rain we had this morning quickly put a stop to that idea, remember I don't have the oil pan bolted up yet and I didn't want to chance it. No worries though, I've got some help lined up when I do get the tractor to work with me.

I've also been busy sorting out the electrical layout. With a 45 amp alternator I'm going to add a few circuits for extra LED lights and a radio. I don't plan on using any of the old wiring harness because its brittle with stiff wire insulation, cut wires and missing terminals. My new harness will have a 12 position mini blade fuse box.

 

[Grumpy560]

Finally made some progress on the alternator brackets today. This is the first one of 2 I'll have to make that will be welded together once they are bolted up in the correct position.

I found it to be too much of a hassle having to roll the entire tractor around to get it out of the way so I pulled the engine out and bolted it onto a pallet, its much easier moving it with a forklift this way.

The brackets I'm making are going to use the air cleaner bracket and a single mounting point on the side of the cylinder head just like Sean Barr did on his alternator install with a couple of minor changes.

1st change I made was utilizing the entire length of the air cleaner bracket thus allowing there to be 3 mounting bolts instead of just 1 bolt.

2nd change I made was having a 2 piece bracket instead of a single piece mounting bracket over the throttle lever. Once the 2 brackets are made and bolted in place they will be welded together.

You will get a better idea of how I'm doing this when I get the second bracket made and placed on the cylinder head.