Thanks, i learn so many thinks from this fine community and i like to share my modifications for the help of others..
Greetings again from a very hot Greek summer..
Greetings again from a very hot Greek summer..
zl-1501dt things i've done
- Thread starter Alexisferos
- Start date
my small tractor had a zzzzzz sound from the starter and i see it it wasn't happy when i use it, for the most people the sound would be normal but i thought that the brass bushing were out of oil or they where dirty after 40years of work. (jackpot)
the job was easy and fast.
i hat to remove the + cable from the battery, the exhaust, the mesh from the side, the dipstick , and the power cable from the starter, then the two bolts from the starter and it was free, 20minutes max.
so i dissemble the starter, clean everything (the commutator-the armature), lube everything as it had its original grease inside it.
i clean and the tractor behind the starter and i bolt everything up,
now the starter spins free and soundless, so the engine is happier
sorry but i don't have many pictures because i was in a rush
i love to work in this tractor.
the job was easy and fast.
i hat to remove the + cable from the battery, the exhaust, the mesh from the side, the dipstick , and the power cable from the starter, then the two bolts from the starter and it was free, 20minutes max.
so i dissemble the starter, clean everything (the commutator-the armature), lube everything as it had its original grease inside it.
i clean and the tractor behind the starter and i bolt everything up,
now the starter spins free and soundless, so the engine is happier
sorry but i don't have many pictures because i was in a rush
i love to work in this tractor.
Attachments
Today i decide to overhaul the engine of my Kubota, it starts fine almost perfect it doesn't have blow by when worked hard but when i leave it at idle for hours or at small rpm (1000) is sprays white smoke from the exhaust and has oil consumption and i see it at the exhaust fumes.
so i will tear it down maybe they are the valve seals but since its an easy job i will see where i will stop..
photos and info the next days
so i will tear it down maybe they are the valve seals but since its an easy job i will see where i will stop..
photos and info the next days
Daren Todd
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Massey Ferguson 1825E, Kubota Z121S, Box blade, Rotary Cutter
What your describing sounds normal. Our little l1501's are almost an air cooled engine since they don't have a water pump. Your issue sounds more like wet stacking, since it only happens when ran for prolonged periods at low rpm's.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f33/wet-stacking-all-diesels-do-65384/#/topics/65384?_k=fomq5t
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f33/wet-stacking-all-diesels-do-65384/#/topics/65384?_k=fomq5t
I have to agree, mine will drool black if i leave it idle or low rpms for extended time. I noticed it when i was making pellets. Needed lower rpms for pelleting.
Made black spots on the hood.
Made black spots on the hood.
---wet-stacking-- is a new for me, thanks Daren i read all the info there.
the good think is that i decide to overhaul the z751 because i will do it almost free,
a friend of mine has workshop and he will help me,
i will pay only the parts and the beer's.
the good think is that i decide to overhaul the z751 because i will do it almost free,
a friend of mine has workshop and he will help me,
i will pay only the parts and the beer's.
"a friend of mine has workshop and he will help me, I will pay only the parts and the beer's."
If this is the "cost" of the rebuild you can't loose. However, your engine probably has many hours before it's really needed.
Wet stacking is, as Daren mentioned, the engine idling too long and not put to a job that requires the engine to get to operating temp and keep it there for a while. Also helped by less then perfect rings.
Have fun. You always do good work!
If this is the "cost" of the rebuild you can't loose. However, your engine probably has many hours before it's really needed.
Wet stacking is, as Daren mentioned, the engine idling too long and not put to a job that requires the engine to get to operating temp and keep it there for a while. Also helped by less then perfect rings.
Have fun. You always do good work!
Here i am again.
i have made a great progress today.
only 5 hours it was the disassembly, even with the problems that i have found.
first i start removing the oil and water and i continue with the parts upper the head and the head.
just unbolt everything and save the bolts in a box. easy job.
you will see that the back cylinder has a lot of junk at the exhaust port.
...the photos....
sorry for the dirty tractor but i didn't have a pressure washer there.
i will wash it after the rebuild.
the cylinders are in a good condition not perfect but i will hone them and i will see how they will perform.
as i see with the little thinks that i know for engines (because i'm a computer boy) the combustion looks almost perfect.
i have made a great progress today.
only 5 hours it was the disassembly, even with the problems that i have found.
first i start removing the oil and water and i continue with the parts upper the head and the head.
just unbolt everything and save the bolts in a box. easy job.
you will see that the back cylinder has a lot of junk at the exhaust port.
...the photos....
sorry for the dirty tractor but i didn't have a pressure washer there.
i will wash it after the rebuild.
the cylinders are in a good condition not perfect but i will hone them and i will see how they will perform.
as i see with the little thinks that i know for engines (because i'm a computer boy) the combustion looks almost perfect.
Attachments
as you see the combustion has a nice brown and black color that to my eyes looks fine for its age.
now i thought that all the day is going to be as easy as now,
well the problems had start after i remove the four bolts under the engine that hold the metal tube that protects the 4x4 shaft.
well the rear coupler it wouldn't move it self with nothing, i had to use the torch and make it glow red, then with a bigger hammer i manage to move it back and remove the shaft.
YES i say time for the sump and i start o remove the bolts,
well NO.
Two of them are inaccessible because you have to remove the front differential.
and 3 of the bolts that hold it its in a very deep and problematic space.
Its like the build the tractor and then they decide to add the 4x4.
bravo kubota
now i thought that all the day is going to be as easy as now,
well the problems had start after i remove the four bolts under the engine that hold the metal tube that protects the 4x4 shaft.
well the rear coupler it wouldn't move it self with nothing, i had to use the torch and make it glow red, then with a bigger hammer i manage to move it back and remove the shaft.
YES i say time for the sump and i start o remove the bolts,
well NO.
Two of them are inaccessible because you have to remove the front differential.
and 3 of the bolts that hold it its in a very deep and problematic space.
Its like the build the tractor and then they decide to add the 4x4.
bravo kubota
Attachments
Last edited:
after a lot of i had the pistons in my hands,
the rings have some play and the cylinders walls need some honing.
the crank looks and feels perfect.
so i will wash,clean everything, hone the walls, change the pistons, the rings and the bearing rods.
and at the head i will change the valve steam seals and will grind the valves.
new gaskets and etc...
here are the two last photos
i had the pistons in my hands,the rings have some play and the cylinders walls need some honing.
the crank looks and feels perfect.
so i will wash,clean everything, hone the walls, change the pistons, the rings and the bearing rods.
and at the head i will change the valve steam seals and will grind the valves.
new gaskets and etc...
here are the two last photos
Attachments
Battered Sav
New member
Equipment
L2000DT (L225DT) Tiller, Slasher, Finishing mower, Ripper, grader/ripper, PHD.
Here i am again,
i have clean everything and disassembly the valves the conrod from the piston,
i have wash with acid the radiator and hone - deglaze the cylinders.
here are some photos
i have clean everything and disassembly the valves the conrod from the piston,
i have wash with acid the radiator and hone - deglaze the cylinders.
here are some photos
Attachments
here you can see the nice clean cylinders, not perfect but for me they are in good shape.
i have also clean the block and wash it, clean and check the valves.
and since now everything is clean i start with the head, assembly the valves and grind them, new seals new type with springs, my old ones were just a rubber seal without springs on top where they seal the valve.
the head is ready.
i have also clean the block and wash it, clean and check the valves.
and since now everything is clean i start with the head, assembly the valves and grind them, new seals new type with springs, my old ones were just a rubber seal without springs on top where they seal the valve.
the head is ready.
Attachments
old piston out and two new pistons with new rings in.
i have also put the head in the front wheels and all the parts that need for engine to start,
sorry that i don't have pictures but it was late and i make everything to start the tractor,
i have not put the hood and the front drive shaft,
so for an info for all, i have pay the parts + filters and oil and antifreeze 250euro
The tractor start after i bleed the lines, its working perfect without black smoke and with good sound.
if i find time tomorrow i will put the 4x4 shaft and the hood, recheck again everything and start working it.
i have also put the head in the front wheels and all the parts that need for engine to start,
sorry that i don't have pictures but it was late and i make everything to start the tractor,
i have not put the hood and the front drive shaft,
so for an info for all, i have pay the parts + filters and oil and antifreeze 250euro
The tractor start after i bleed the lines, its working perfect without black smoke and with good sound.
if i find time tomorrow i will put the 4x4 shaft and the hood, recheck again everything and start working it.
Attachments
mwjoerin
New member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1981 L245DT, FEL, 4' Rotary Mower, 41" Tiller, PTO Sprayer, Hiller, Cultivator
Thank you for sharing. You are an inspiration for us that like to do our own work.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
Today I have put the tractor to work, a little mowing, and I can say that I'm very pleased with how the engine is working, nice sound, good power, low temps , no smoke,
I'm gonna work it some days and then I'm gona check the valves and the head bolts...
I'm gonna work it some days and then I'm gona check the valves and the head bolts...
ok i have a question to the tractor guru's.
my tractor starts perfect, runs perfect, has no black smoke, its working as it should be at idle and when i work it hard no weird sounds,
the problem is when i leave it or i work it with his nose (radiator) up hill or i work or travel in a road upwords,
it dosen't matter if its at idle or at load, it has a metal knocking sound, i cannot say if it is an engine internal sound front or rear piston, valves or valve train rods, or even diesel knocking.
and i say again, the sound is noticable only when its nose is upwords.
has any off you have some idea? or i will start dissaseble everything again.
i will try thiner oil first and a new diesel.
i have put 4 hours to it today i try to identify the problem..
my tractor starts perfect, runs perfect, has no black smoke, its working as it should be at idle and when i work it hard no weird sounds,
the problem is when i leave it or i work it with his nose (radiator) up hill or i work or travel in a road upwords,
it dosen't matter if its at idle or at load, it has a metal knocking sound, i cannot say if it is an engine internal sound front or rear piston, valves or valve train rods, or even diesel knocking.
and i say again, the sound is noticable only when its nose is upwords.
has any off you have some idea? or i will start dissaseble everything again.
i will try thiner oil first and a new diesel.
i have put 4 hours to it today i try to identify the problem..
ok i have the problem to my knocking, it was a clocked diesel filter and from that the injectors was struggle to take the right amount diesel when uphill,
everything is is good order now.
everything is is good order now.