What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

[Siesta Sundance]

Gonna be a nice coop, how many hens do plan on having? And is the egg access gonna be accessible from outside of the coop?

My coop is on 5x10 trailer with a wire mesh floor, takes less than 10min to use the water hose and spray out the bottom and roost box for cleaning.

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

All the rain we’ve been having resulted in a small lake in my driveway/yard. So today I dug a little trench across the driveway to drain it. I think I aught to figure something out to prevent this from happening in the first place. Tractor made light work of it!

 

[fatjay]

Electrical is a mess on my b7200, which was my fathers before he passed. Dash was completely dead. Most importantly, the flood lights, which I wired for him, but then he "rewired" after. Got everything working except the wiper and fuel gauge, but it's good enough for now.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

Started building a new chicken coop this week. Used the LX with clamp-on forks to move and set the frame on some cross ties. Gotta love me some Hydrostatic transmission. That made handling the coop frame so easy and gentle.

Before anyone berates me for my clamp-on forks, they do what I need done most of the time, and cost a fraction of what something I'd normally leave outside to rust. Takes all of about 5 minutes to put them on, and best of all, they cost very little. IIRC, I got 'em for $149. Hard to argue with success.

Here's the framing for the new coop. I'm pretty sure it's gonna keep the chickens in and the vermin out when I get done with it.

View attachment 118380
I can go back and add a solid floor later if I choose to, but I figure the dirt floor will be almost as easy to clean and I won't have to worry about washing it. Gonna build the run with 2x3 welded mesh 48 inches high at the bottom (as well as chicken wire) to keep the 'yotes out during the day. Automatic door on the coop should keep other critters out at night. The siding on the coop is gonna be some retired 5/4 x 6 Pressure Treated decking that I stripped off my neighbor's deck and salvaged. The framing 4x4s are all lap spliced short pieces. The 2x10 band at the bottom is from my deck that I completely replaced back in 2008. The windows are repurposed bathroom windows from having siding, windows, and doors done in 2010. So far, my costs in this are electricity and a few hundred screws.

That would make an awesome MIL suite…no joke that looks like it could be a cabin… love repurpose material uses/projects. Great job.

I am not sure you have predators that dig or not, but if not considered already, this would be a good time to consider to put some fence down under the coup floor to discourage unwanted guests from popping up.

 

[Bmyers]

I had Tuesday off, so went out to the farm and worked on mowing the waterway. Went into a hidden ditch a few times. Almost had to call for help to get out once, but between front loader, 4-wheel, and dif lock, I was finally able to get out. Got most of it mowed before I had to call it quits for the day.

 

[fried1765]

Started building a new chicken coop this week. Used the LX with clamp-on forks to move and set the frame on some cross ties. Gotta love me some Hydrostatic transmission. That made handling the coop frame so easy and gentle.

Before anyone berates me for my clamp-on forks, they do what I need done most of the time, and cost a fraction of what something I'd normally leave outside to rust. Takes all of about 5 minutes to put them on, and best of all, they cost very little. IIRC, I got 'em for $149. Hard to argue with success.

Here's the framing for the new coop. I'm pretty sure it's gonna keep the chickens in and the vermin out when I get done with it.

View attachment 118380
I can go back and add a solid floor later if I choose to, but I figure the dirt floor will be almost as easy to clean and I won't have to worry about washing it. Gonna build the run with 2x3 welded mesh 48 inches high at the bottom (as well as chicken wire) to keep the 'yotes out during the day. Automatic door on the coop should keep other critters out at night. The siding on the coop is gonna be some retired 5/4 x 6 Pressure Treated decking that I stripped off my neighbor's deck and salvaged. The framing 4x4s are all lap spliced short pieces. The 2x10 band at the bottom is from my deck that I completely replaced back in 2008. The windows are repurposed bathroom windows from having siding, windows, and doors done in 2010. So far, my costs in this are electricity and a few hundred screws.

That is one "beefy" looking structure!
Very likely could even withstand an elephant attack on your chickens.

 

[Trimley]

All the rain we’ve been having resulted in a small lake in my driveway/yard. So today I dug a little trench across the driveway to drain it. I think I aught to figure something out to prevent this from happening in the first place. Tractor made light work of it!

View attachment 118393 View attachment 118394 View attachment 118395

Time to backfill and level that.

 

[RichardAaronlx2610]

All the rain we’ve been having resulted in a small lake in my driveway/yard. So today I dug a little trench across the driveway to drain it. I think I aught to figure something out to prevent this from happening in the first place. Tractor made light work of it!

View attachment 118393 View attachment 118394 View attachment 118395

Looks good without all the stickers. I did the same to mine the day i brought It home

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

Time to backfill and level that.

Totally. I added three tandems of crusher run and several tons of dirt from elsewhere on the property last year, but it seems I have more to do!

 

[ajschnitzelbank]

Looks good without all the stickers. I did the same to mine the day i brought It home

Definitely. I rip everything off my cars, too.

 

[MountainMeadows]

A couple weeks back I spread 4 tri-axle loads of asphalt millings on my parking lot. Then rented a roller to pack it down. All that work pushed the clock just over 50 hrs so a full service was next to follow up the parking lot work. I changed all 3 filters and used the vacuum trick on the fill inlet to avoid loosing Hyd oil on the Hyd filter change. I only lost about a pint. Greased the tractor and checked the clutch adjustment. Once the 50 hour service was complete I got to the fun part. Installing the new SpeeCo Quick Hitch, which I discovered, could take out your tail lights if you're not careful.

 

[fried1765]

Totally. I added three tandems of crusher run and several tons of dirt from elsewhere on the property last year, but it seems I have more to do!

View attachment 118482 View attachment 118483 View attachment 118484 View attachment 118485 View attachment 118486

Three tandem loads in my area would cost a fortune.
You must have a crusher nearby.
Looks nice!

 

[The Evil Twin]

All the rain we’ve been having resulted in a small lake in my driveway/yard. So today I dug a little trench across the driveway to drain it. I think I aught to figure something out to prevent this from happening in the first place. Tractor made light work of it!

View attachment 118393 View attachment 118394 View attachment 118395

Yall got serious rain up there!
Have you thought of just dropping a 12" steel pipe in that trench?

 

[Treckerzeug]

Finished log splitting for the 2025/26 winter

 

[Trimley]

Installing the new SpeeCo Quick Hitch, which I discovered, could take out your tail lights if you're not careful. View attachment 118496

Somethings out of whack. The QH shouldn't need to be tilted that far forward.

It looks like the ballast box needs "ears" added to the bottom, to move it away from the QH.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Somethings out of whack. The QH shouldn't need to be tilted that far forward.

It looks like the ballast box needs "ears" added to the bottom, to move it away from the QH.

Looking closer, maybe if the top link used a hook it would be further rearward.

 

[Trimley]

Looking closer, maybe if the top link used a hook it would be further rearward.

He mentioned the QH being close to the lights. The way it is, damage to the tail lights is likely...eventually.

Is the TL extension necessary?

 

[The Evil Twin]

He mentioned the QH being close to the lights. The way it is, damage to the tail lights is likely...eventually.

Is the TL extension necessary?

Yeah, that's what I'm saying. Get rid of the extention and use the hook.
I've heard that some attachments top connection is too narrow for a hook though.

 

[Trimley]

Yeah, that's what I'm saying. Get rid of the extention and use the hook.
I've heard that some attachments top connection is too narrow for a hook though.

We're thinking alike. That ballast box design is odd. A good side photo would be helpful for our (mine anyway) speculations.

 

[JimDeL]

...Once the 50 hour service was complete I got to the fun part. Installing the new SpeeCo Quick Hitch, which I discovered, could take out your tail lights if you're not careful. View attachment 118492 View attachment 118493 View attachment 118494 View attachment 118495 View attachment 118496

Isn't that the old style Kubota Ballast Box - which has been replaced by the WB-10?
The old style (yours) was never intended to be QH compatible. That's why it's been replaced by the WB-10.
It's also why you have your QH tilted so far back and have a top hook-up extension on it instead of a hook.
You'd be better off just connecting that old style ballast box directly to the 3 point.