What did you do to or on your Kubota today?

Trimley

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Looking closer, maybe if the top link used a hook it would be further rearward.
He mentioned the QH being close to the lights. The way it is, damage to the tail lights is likely...eventually.

🤔 Is the TL extension necessary?
 

The Evil Twin

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He mentioned the QH being close to the lights. The way it is, damage to the tail lights is likely...eventually.

🤔 Is the TL extension necessary?
Yeah, that's what I'm saying. Get rid of the extention and use the hook.
I've heard that some attachments top connection is too narrow for a hook though.
 

Trimley

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Yeah, that's what I'm saying. Get rid of the extention and use the hook.
I've heard that some attachments top connection is too narrow for a hook though.
We're thinking alike. That ballast box design is odd. A good side photo would be helpful for our (mine anyway) speculations.
 
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JimDeL

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...Once the 50 hour service was complete I got to the fun part. Installing the new SpeeCo Quick Hitch, which I discovered, could take out your tail lights if you're not careful. View attachment 118492 View attachment 118493 View attachment 118494 View attachment 118495 View attachment 118496
Isn't that the old style Kubota Ballast Box - which has been replaced by the WB-10?
The old style (yours) was never intended to be QH compatible. That's why it's been replaced by the WB-10.
It's also why you have your QH tilted so far back and have a top hook-up extension on it instead of a hook.
You'd be better off just connecting that old style ballast box directly to the 3 point.
 
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Trimley

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Isn't that the old style Kubota Ballast Box - which has been replaced by the WB-10?
The old style (yours) was never intended to be QH compatible. That's why it's been replaced by the WB-10.
It's also why you have your QH tilted so far back and have a top hook-up extension on it instead of a hook.
You'd be better off just connecting that old style ballast box directly to the 3 point.
That explains why it looks odd.

Maybe weld some extended ears on the bottom.
 

dirtydeed

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small water service repair this am with the backhoe this time. all went fine.

start

H4-SHE390-4.JPG


H4-SHE390-3.JPG


diggy/repair

H4-SHE390-7.JPG


backfill and done. load up and head home.

Got the google 5 star review before I even made it home. :)

H4-SHE390-10.JPG


H4-SHE390-9.JPG
 

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Jim’sMX

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Replaced washers to fix a hydro leak at the pump, added fluid, kicked a front tire, moved firewood to a stack and parked it for the day.
 

dirtydeed

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Was it leaking at the first joint near the house?

We added the copper piece. The original poly looks like it sunk/sheared coming out of the foundation (it was almost a 90 degree bend).

here is the piece we cut out that shows the crack in the pipe where it entered the foundation.

H4-SHE390-Broken pipe.JPG
 
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fried1765

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We added the copper piece. The original poly looks like it sunk/sheared coming out of the foundation (it was almost a 90 degree bend).

here is the piece we cut out that shows the crack in the pipe where it entered the foundation.

View attachment 118542
Relatively new house?
Backfill settling caused poly to fracture?
 

dirtydeed

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Relatively new house?
Backfill settling caused poly to fracture?
yep. 10 years old. I think that they likely ran the water service before the foundation was done. It was deeper than we typically see (like 5 feet). Or it was just a settling issue. Either way its still deep for a water service around here at 5 feet.
 

MountainMeadows

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Isn't that the old style Kubota Ballast Box - which has been replaced by the WB-10?
The old style (yours) was never intended to be QH compatible. That's why it's been replaced by the WB-10.
It's also why you have your QH tilted so far back and have a top hook-up extension on it instead of a hook.
You'd be better off just connecting that old style ballast box directly to the 3 point.
The ballast box wasn't intended for a quick hitch or an L2501. It's a "get me by" for the time being and I'm not done adapting it to work better. It's a work in progress. I just slapped it on at the end of a long day.
 

D2Cat

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Often times, around here, soft copper in ran through the concrete wall and out side 8-10 ft. then connected to usually a poly or PVC to meter. The copper is suppose to allow for flexibility with some settlement. The closer to the wall that pipe terminates the greater chance of a leak there.
 

ajschnitzelbank

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Three tandem loads in my area would cost a fortune.
You must have a crusher nearby.
Looks nice!
Thanks!

There are a couple quarries nearby, but it still cost a lot. I think five hundred some per load. When I did other part of the drive a few years back it was $300 per load 😳
 

ajschnitzelbank

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Yall got serious rain up there!
Have you thought of just dropping a 12" steel pipe in that trench?
Well, I have considered putting some sort of drain in. But I’m out of my element and haven’t figured out a way. Because it was a big low spot that I put a gravel parking area in the middle of, like an island (or peninsula I guess). So I’m not sure where to locate a drain. Plus, where that trench is it drained in the yard sorta toward the house, right in to the chicken area, so that wouldn’t be a good spot. If I did a longer drain away from the house it would go through the part of my driveway with an easement, which I’m not sure about doing. I’m rambling now. Thanks for the thought yeah I have considered a pipe/drain but I’m not sure about it. I’m leaning toward one more load of gravel and a load or two of dirt. Whatever I do, I’m glad the tractor will make light work of it!
 

The Evil Twin

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Well, I have considered putting some sort of drain in. But I’m out of my element and haven’t figured out a way. Because it was a big low spot that I put a gravel parking area in the middle of, like an island (or peninsula I guess). So I’m not sure where to locate a drain. Plus, where that trench is it drained in the yard sorta toward the house, right in to the chicken area, so that wouldn’t be a good spot. If I did a longer drain away from the house it would go through the part of my driveway with an easement, which I’m not sure about doing. I’m rambling now. Thanks for the thought yeah I have considered a pipe/drain but I’m not sure about it. I’m leaning toward one more load of gravel and a load or two of dirt. Whatever I do, I’m glad the tractor will make light work of it!
It does take careful planning. I have learned to allow water to go (sorta) where it wants to. As long as the area you lead it to is well drained. It was hard to tell from your photos what was where. Just thing though- if you fill the low spot, it will still travel beyond that to the next place. Take it one step at a time and good luck!
 
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