Have you used this wire successfully before? Have you tried a different spool of wire? Has the wire developed some corrosion on the surface? Could the wire be out of spec.
Welder Advice
- Thread starter powerkraut
- Start date
I get the not wanting to spend too much just to see if you like welding. However, I think a cheap welder will make I much more likely that you struggle and give up out of frustration than a good welder will. I have a Lincoln 210MP. I wired in 220v, but it runs off 110v as well and I've used that setting, but the machine is much more capable when powered by 220v. I also got a Lincoln Viking 3350 hood. As a hobby welder at best do I need a good hood like that? No, but it allows me to see and I'm positive my ability to see what I'm doing makes me a better welder than I would otherwise be.
On a budget today, the Titanium line at HF gets pretty good reviews. I'd still get a 220v machine or at least one that can run off either 110 or 220 and start with 110 if needed. Get a good hood so you can see.
Grab a Vulcan hood as they also get pretty good reviews. Don't forget to budget for gas. You can start with flux core, but shielding gas will give you much nicer welds as well.
On a budget today, the Titanium line at HF gets pretty good reviews. I'd still get a 220v machine or at least one that can run off either 110 or 220 and start with 110 if needed. Get a good hood so you can see.
Grab a Vulcan hood as they also get pretty good reviews. Don't forget to budget for gas. You can start with flux core, but shielding gas will give you much nicer welds as well.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
I agree with the 220V machine, but I’m not "100% sold" on the import machines causing bad welds.
Similar to the the Miller vs. Lincoln Vs. Hobart v.s (whomever), I wonder how much the machine counts vs. the skills of the actual “welder himself”.
Any machine my welding instructor touched, laid beautiful beads. But he had “thousands of hours” of experience.
Much like, my fat ass, buying an expensive “tennis racket” certainly ain't gonna make me play like John McEnro, and expensive golf clubs wont make me John Daly …….
(We do have similar "body types" and "bad habits" though…and apparently “fashion sense” too..
)
If I thought I could lay down beautiful “Stack’s of dimes” every time because of the machine, I would have bought one these "Miller Dynasty 300’s” many moons ago…...
But, after taxes, at $16,000, I don't think it would make me much better of a welder……(Just poorer, ………….and possibly single )
(Wow they have really skyrocketed in price…..I remember them being ONLY $7,000 not too long ago……….I still want one though……………)
Similar to the the Miller vs. Lincoln Vs. Hobart v.s (whomever), I wonder how much the machine counts vs. the skills of the actual “welder himself”.
Any machine my welding instructor touched, laid beautiful beads. But he had “thousands of hours” of experience.
Much like, my fat ass, buying an expensive “tennis racket” certainly ain't gonna make me play like John McEnro, and expensive golf clubs wont make me John Daly …….
(We do have similar "body types" and "bad habits" though…and apparently “fashion sense” too..
)
If I thought I could lay down beautiful “Stack’s of dimes” every time because of the machine, I would have bought one these "Miller Dynasty 300’s” many moons ago…...
But, after taxes, at $16,000, I don't think it would make me much better of a welder……(Just poorer, ………….and possibly single
)(Wow they have really skyrocketed in price…..I remember them being ONLY $7,000 not too long ago……….I still want one though……………)
I bought my Miller MIG 25 years ago with a spool gun. It's still very good. At the time, two of the advantages were the spool gun and duty cycle that stomped most of the machines at the time. Sure, it was a bit more, but it's still going strong at 25.
However, technology has changed over 25 years. The difference in quality probably is a lot less than it was 25 years ago.
However, technology has changed over 25 years. The difference in quality probably is a lot less than it was 25 years ago.
I bought a Millermatic 185 over 25 years ago (also with a spool gun) and it's still going strong. One thing about higher quality welding machines of yesteryear is that they're better able to deal with all that life throws at them. My welder lives in an unheated garage that can be -20°F in the winter and 90°F in the summer and yet it still works whenever I need it to. The duty cycle is great too, but most hobbyists aren't going to worry much about that.
The Millermatic is a 220V machine as is the Lincoln SW TIG 200 and the Hypertherm 380 plasma cutter that I have, and personally I'd have no use for 110V anything when it comes to welding and cutting.
barts
Active member
Equipment
4wd B5100 w/ FEL, box blade, JD110 TLB, WC68 chipper, log arch, brush mower.
I have a small Miller Challenger MIG welder which works well, but for a lot of tractor stuff it's too light.
I also have Lincoln IdealArc stick welder (250 A AC/DC) and this is what I use for anything 3/16" or over.... it's nearly 500 lbs, much of it copper, and it welds very nicely. There's one locally on FB Marketplace for $100; it looks a bit ragged but there are no delicate parts inside.
One of these, plus a auto-darkening helmet and some basic leather protection (Harbor Freight is inexpensive) and you can be learning to weld pretty cheaply.
I also have Lincoln IdealArc stick welder (250 A AC/DC) and this is what I use for anything 3/16" or over.... it's nearly 500 lbs, much of it copper, and it welds very nicely. There's one locally on FB Marketplace for $100; it looks a bit ragged but there are no delicate parts inside.
One of these, plus a auto-darkening helmet and some basic leather protection (Harbor Freight is inexpensive) and you can be learning to weld pretty cheaply.
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I’m a Canadian red seal jman welder. CWB certified structural welder. Stick and flux core All position. Post secondary welding instructor. CNC plasma table experience.
my advice to a beginner is to avoid 110/120v powered units. They are too limited in ability. I have 2 machines at home. Lincoln idealarc 250 ac/dc stick machine. Runs on 230/460/575v single phase power. Burns any rod I can throw at it. I also have a Miller bobcat 250 gas powered machine. Mounted on its own trailer I built. It’s multi process and I run stick and flux core wire with a suitcase feeder.
I would avoid any Chinese made machine. As for me, I’m only buying Lincoln, Miller/Hobart or ESAB.
my advice to a beginner is to avoid 110/120v powered units. They are too limited in ability. I have 2 machines at home. Lincoln idealarc 250 ac/dc stick machine. Runs on 230/460/575v single phase power. Burns any rod I can throw at it. I also have a Miller bobcat 250 gas powered machine. Mounted on its own trailer I built. It’s multi process and I run stick and flux core wire with a suitcase feeder.
I would avoid any Chinese made machine. As for me, I’m only buying Lincoln, Miller/Hobart or ESAB.
. I worked for a major welding equipment mfg. 20 years. Dealing with Bath Iron Works Shipyard Etc. I should add my comments to the end of this thread, after a certified weldor from Canada, respectfully added his. . I'm bombarded with ad's here trying to post. Thus the possible typo's.
I will say I worked for Thermal Dynamics Inc. Pioneer in Plasma cutting, since 1956, in Lebanon, N.H., long before Hypertherm. Thermal brought to market, the first single phase 230v, and 120v, made in USA, and 1st. in the world, plasma cutter, when I worked for them in the 1980's. THAT said, I was the rep. for Bath Iron Works, that brought in the first 40 lb. hand carry 1/2" air plasma, to , take on board ship. It too was made in N.H., Not China. . FAST FORWARD Today. I just ordered for the HELL of it a $180 ARC-CAPTIAN, 50 amp 120/230v air plasma cutter to test. As if I don't already have enough in SEMI-retirement. Same for welders. I have a wonderful 45 year old I bought new,, Lincoln SP-150 MIG, Miller XMT-304 Stick /Mig Tig, Thermal Arc AC/DC 250 Inverter Pulse TIG, CobraMatic_Aluminum Push-Pull System...........As I REALLY Hated to see the "China Syndrome" tools, equipment, and welders, invade my marker place, I'm also going to buy that Arc-Captian Full Blown Multi Process Mig-Tig-Pulse_Mulit Volt to test in my shop. JUST FOR THE HELL OF IT !!!!! Two reason why.......I just joined this "Orange Tractor Talks", don't even have my used B2650HSDC yet, got so many wonderful answrers from Kubota owners helping me get started to get ready with options, I thought with your limited budget and welding skills, even though I Hate China imports, this Arc Captian product line has too many You Tube fabricators Thumbs up. I need to challenge. When I worked for that mfg., I was proud to help design. I still do. I sell new and custom re-furbish CNC Plasma/oxy cutting machines today. If you have bought a Tig/Mig machine yet, I'll post my results on that Arc Captian when I test it. Most often, some things are too good to be true.
I still long to find a mint orig. Lincoln SP-125, that runs on 120 v. ( for my body & tin work and moving around ), , but it welding 3/16" with .035" wire is pushing it. I agree you should put in a 230 volt outlet, at least 30 amps. Flux Core gas-less wire OK for brackets etc., like stick welding. Sheet-metal / cosmetics need .030" wire & gas, or TIG, that's where you could get away with a 120 v. machine. FYI: One Lincoln Electric "Bent Carrot" marketing product is the SP-150 Welder at the Big Box Home Store. It's a look a like to the one at the Industrial Welding store, $$$$ Hundreds Less, Gas-Less, No Gas Solenoid Kit, Only 4 Voltage Adjustments (Not Continuous Pot, so Sheet Metal Impossible). What a bargain !!
Great news. Like what You have.
My only caution to those buying new mig welders, are those with gasless flux-core, can they latter be upgraded, if you need to, gas kit for doing finer work like sheet-metal.
AND, is the VOLTAGE Control in STEPS or a Continuous knob. If in 4 Steps,, it's a Cheap worthless for Sheet-metal fine tuning, Goldy Locks Syndrome. Get What Ya Pay For.
My story is the same as this one. After retiring from my construction gig, I took a couple quarters of community college welding labs (Saturdays 9-4) working on stick welding profieciency. I already owned a Lincoln AC225. Then I bought the same Primeweld machine as above. It was shocking how easy MIG was compared to stick, though since I had some stick experience, it may have contributed to the easy transition.
The 180 seems to be a really nice little machine. I am now working on tuning up my stick welding skills again in preparation for welding together the ripper attachment for the BT1100 on my L48. The MIG is a little short on heat for 3/4 to 3/4 connections. Or so I have been told.
It will not run 6010. It is a little sketchy with 6011, though it may be the cheap rod I bought. My next purchase of 6011 will be a different brand, not from India. The 180 runs 7018 really nice. Absolutely fun to run the 7018 on it.
The 180 welds nice on 110, but better on 220, without a doubt. Also, the company has VERY responsive customer service. You would not be disappointed if you chose their product. Easy ordering and quick shipping. I could not have one complaint.
Have fun welding.
I must say I always want to buy American. I worked for an American Mfg. of Plasma Cutters for 20 years. Still I sell as a dealer, CNC American Mfg. Plasma machines. BUT, As a Hobbyist, a friend has a Miller Maxstar portable Stick /Tig. The P/C Board Blew. $1,200.00 replacement part. He Went to Harbor Tool, got one made in China for $300, and is happy. I can't argue. A throw away tool.