Weak Starting
- Thread starter NHSleddog
- Start date
I will try to answer several questions here,
When things get below zero and something needs a jump up here, you jump it. It isn't odd or rare. Just life in the cold. Call the dealer on a day that is below zero and they would tell you the same.
I did believe the battery was weak from the start. After replacing it and having the old one tested, it is not the battery.
It is under warranty, and the one-year anniversary would be the end of next month (my reason to look into this before then).
This is not a good time to bring it to them, next month will be better.
Honestly, all this time I figured it was the battery and no big deal to take care of.
If I knew how fast it should turn over, I could test that easily with a tachometer.
When things get below zero and something needs a jump up here, you jump it. It isn't odd or rare. Just life in the cold. Call the dealer on a day that is below zero and they would tell you the same.
I did believe the battery was weak from the start. After replacing it and having the old one tested, it is not the battery.
It is under warranty, and the one-year anniversary would be the end of next month (my reason to look into this before then).
This is not a good time to bring it to them, next month will be better.
Honestly, all this time I figured it was the battery and no big deal to take care of.
If I knew how fast it should turn over, I could test that easily with a tachometer.
No I was thinking of your post. In the first or second sentence you say the tractor always starts right up.
As for the time line, maybe time DOES pass slower as you get older...
It felt like several days...
85Hokie
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BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
the starter is a gear reduction style, planetary type
they don't crank very fast but they have a ton of starting torque
similarly, the ZD25/28 mowers-same starter as I recall. Notoriously slow cranking, then when the wiring breaks down they just drag like the battery is half dead
If I had it at the shop, I'd be doing a voltage drop test. If under 0.5 volt drop between batt and starter (while cranking) there is no problem with the plus cord and connections. Same for earth cord, less than 0.5v drop and the earth is good. Eliminates the wiring and connections if it's done properly. At that point, I'm testing the loaded voltage at the battery while cranking. Ok? Then either there is nothing wrong, or the starter has some sort of problem which would be extremely rare--I can't remember replacing any of those style starters unless a customer asked me to (maybe twice in 30 years?)
as I said they don't crank over very fast anyway so without hearing it there's no way for us to really know
they don't crank very fast but they have a ton of starting torque
similarly, the ZD25/28 mowers-same starter as I recall. Notoriously slow cranking, then when the wiring breaks down they just drag like the battery is half dead
If I had it at the shop, I'd be doing a voltage drop test. If under 0.5 volt drop between batt and starter (while cranking) there is no problem with the plus cord and connections. Same for earth cord, less than 0.5v drop and the earth is good. Eliminates the wiring and connections if it's done properly. At that point, I'm testing the loaded voltage at the battery while cranking. Ok? Then either there is nothing wrong, or the starter has some sort of problem which would be extremely rare--I can't remember replacing any of those style starters unless a customer asked me to (maybe twice in 30 years?)
as I said they don't crank over very fast anyway so without hearing it there's no way for us to really know
Pau7220
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Equipment
L3650 GST, Landpride TL250 FEL w/ Piranha, 6' King Kutter, GM1084R Finish
In response to what 200mph and lugbolt said... Voltage drop test is the way to go. I find it much easier to use an analog meter set on a 3V scale. If the voltage drop test shows ok... move on to an inductive amperage draw test on the starter. Most guys I know have the small cheap hand held meters in the bottom drawer of their tool box.
Have you checked that all the connections are torqued and clean? Corrosion and loose connections are like a giant resistor in the circuit.
I'd start by cleaning the terminal clamps and battery posts with a wire brush, greasing and reassemble. Do the same with the ground clamp to frame.
If everything is good to the starter you might have a bum starter relay switch.
I'd start by cleaning the terminal clamps and battery posts with a wire brush, greasing and reassemble. Do the same with the ground clamp to frame.
If everything is good to the starter you might have a bum starter relay switch.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
another easy test...
goto dealer, start up 2 or 3 similar units.......
as lugbolt says.. gear reduction starters are slow turners.....so you have to compare yours to others with same starter system.
goto dealer, start up 2 or 3 similar units.......
as lugbolt says.. gear reduction starters are slow turners.....so you have to compare yours to others with same starter system.