I don’t think the reason to warm up is limited to the fluids and circulation…it’s important I think fuel that gels and oil that gets thick with cool temp warming up only helps. However, I think all those precision machines parts that also expand and contract with temp probably makes sense to let them get close to operating temperature before WFO. Little bit of fuel is cheaper than snap crackle and pop.
Tractor Warm Up Question
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TheOldHokie
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L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
The faster you warm that fluid the faster those parts get warmed. The fluid is what is doing the warmup.
Dan
But faster means more load on those parts that are not ready for prime time. Yes, it is a judgement call since no two startups are exactly the same.
As has been stated yes the charge relief does create some heat although it is limited. As you stated it is better than nothing. The rotating groups inside the HST housing will also heat the oil due to the friction created by spinning through the oil inside the HST housing.
As far as the hydraulic and steering pump(s) they are open center and without operating a function the only heat created is from the friction of the pump(s) and the flow of oil through the circuit. But it does distribute what heat is in the circuit throughout the components that it comes in contact with.
I probably wouldn't equate it to an automatic transmission which will have a torque converter or fluid coupling, as these components will build heat during operation in neutral.
My BX23S is stored in an unheated garage. In winter, I warm the glo plugs until the gas guage stops it's dance. I start up, raise my bucket and get it outside. I'll make sure I have my gloves and hat on and putter down the driveway (350') and gently start to move some snow. As it warms up, I slowly raise the revs. Then it's work as normal. In the summer, I just putter to the area I'm going to work and slowly start my task. As it warms up, I work as normal.
My concern with that chart is that it doesn't go far enough. Do I need 10 more minutes at -14 and 5 more at -20 F? Or is 30 minutes good for any temp below -4 F?
Any engine warmed to operating temp will outlast one driven cold by a factor of at least 5. Many Americans do not have the patience in our fast paced world to do this. Knew a guy who had a auto trans shop and he said he drove around the block before he hit the highway.
I live in Alaska and that is not necessary. You should not need more than 10 at the most and I am a warm up fanatic.
In my manual the sentence before this chart is for the hydraulic / HST oil and says to run the tractor at about 50% of the rated power for these times.
I generally wait to plow snow until mid day but today I needed to get out early and it was -2 F I used the block heater and that moved the heat gage up really fast ready in about 5 minutes.
I don't run mine below 20 degrees if I can help it. Lived in Alaska a long time and know that cold is like a disease for internal combustion engines and especially drive trains. I know that is not possible with many people. Years ago I once had a VW little 1969 station wagon that put out little or no heat. Being stupid as youth often is I drove that VW from Fairbanks to Anchorage at temps as low as -40. Was covered from head to toe in parka and snow pants.
Trips kinda stop being fun once you have to stop and scrape the inside of the windshield