Top n tilt
- Thread starter Southernswim
- Start date
That could very well be.
In my case I think if I have an obvious high spot, what I do is keep the 3PH fully lowered as NHsleddog does, but change the angle (with my top cylinder) to make it less aggressive after I scrape the high spot off. And perhaps change the angle again to be more aggressive at the next high spot if the box is not full...full weight of the box blade is always on the ground, even when dragging a full box to a dumping point.
Dang, I was super excited to start reading this thread, but the actual subject somehow got totally derailed.
Now there are at least two guys looking for sourcing options other then the two sources previously mentioned.
I’m also more confused then ever in regards to which hydraulic function would be most important to have if only one could be had.
I was assuming the tilt function, since my L3901 has teeny tiny (and painful!) ”nubs” to try to grab a hold of when I turn the sideline turn buckle.
Poor design it’s definitely a royal p.i.t.a.
AND because I ALWAYS seem to be on a sidehill, necessitating constantly readjusting, seems the hydraulic side link would be a no brainer.
The top link is orders of magnitude less of a pain to turn to adjust.
Anyway…
Now there are at least two guys looking for sourcing options other then the two sources previously mentioned.
I’m also more confused then ever in regards to which hydraulic function would be most important to have if only one could be had.
I was assuming the tilt function, since my L3901 has teeny tiny (and painful!) ”nubs” to try to grab a hold of when I turn the sideline turn buckle.
Poor design it’s definitely a royal p.i.t.a.
AND because I ALWAYS seem to be on a sidehill, necessitating constantly readjusting, seems the hydraulic side link would be a no brainer.
The top link is orders of magnitude less of a pain to turn to adjust.
Anyway…
That is a VERY difficult question to answer!
I think, MAYBE, that if I could only have one, I would choose the top cylinder, as I use it a lot to adjust the cut and also to tilt the box blade back when it is full, without leaving the tractor seat, if I want to drag the full box somewhere to dump it. I think doing this would be impractical with a manual adjustment.
But I think it really would depend on what one is doing most of the time...
My advice: Get both, when you can afford it, if money is an issue.
I agree that both would be nice to have. Right now I do not have any. I can tell you that I adjust my top link a lot more frequently than the side link.
If I had to choose one, I would get the top first.
Regarding your difficulty adjusting the side turn buckle, you can upgrade to ones that are easier to manually adjust, or you can keep them lubed up and keep an open end wrench in your tool box to make the one you have easier to adjust
If I had to choose one, I would get the top first.
Regarding your difficulty adjusting the side turn buckle, you can upgrade to ones that are easier to manually adjust, or you can keep them lubed up and keep an open end wrench in your tool box to make the one you have easier to adjust
PortTackFarm
Active member
Equipment
L3560 LE (ROP's) w/ LA805 FEL, LP RCF 2072, BB2572 and WoodMaxx WM-8H
I ordered my TnT kit from Fit Right back in October. I am expecting my kit sometime next month or early May, provided the original delivery time table is still applicable. We are grading out our property around our new "Barndominiun" and have several side slopes that need to be cut in certain ways that only the TnT will allow for, so I am excited to get it as soon as I can. We had planned to plant grass this spring but with grass seed as expensive as it is now, and the property being an hour from home (it's just a recreational property) I don't want to risk investing in all the seed only to see the grass die off in July. We'll take the summer to get everything leveled and graded out the way we want and plant grass in September.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
I carried a two short pieces of pipe in the weenie little toolbox to fit the nubs on the toplink and sidelink so I could turn them. The hydraulics I have now are much more efficient.
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Getting Top-N-Tilt from Fit-Rite, to me, was like a bigger deal than getting the tractor itself. It was nothing short of christmas. After having it, I could not use a machine without now. I def use the top link the most on the fly, but the side link is equally important.
There is no comparison to the finished product when the machine is equipped with T&T
an incredible write-up done by NHS
www.orangetractortalks.com
There is no comparison to the finished product when the machine is equipped with T&T
an incredible write-up done by NHS
Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle (PA)?
I got a private request to post some pictures of my T&T setup in use. First off, Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle? 1. Quality of job. 2. Speed of job. 3. Trailering (no implement clearance issues loading) 4. Obstacle avoidance or handling in tight spaces. 5. Quick Hitch heaven. Any...
www.orangetractortalks.com
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Getting Top-N-Tilt from Fit-Rite, to me, was like a bigger deal than getting the tractor itself. It was nothing short of christmas. After having it, I could not use a machine without now. I def use the top link the most on the fly, but the side link is equally important.
There is no comparison to the finished product when the machine is equipped with T&T
an incredible write-up done by NHS
Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle (PA)?
I got a private request to post some pictures of my T&T setup in use. First off, Why Top and Tilt (T&T) and Power Angle? 1. Quality of job. 2. Speed of job. 3. Trailering (no implement clearance issues loading) 4. Obstacle avoidance or handling in tight spaces. 5. Quick Hitch heaven. Any...
i feel like the thread resurrected itself nicely!
Some good advice, and I’m taking heed for sure…
And also, I will be saving up so I can have both tilt and top.
Just when I thought I was done, having just installed a 3rd function and grapple.
Sigh!
Thanks to all!
Some good advice, and I’m taking heed for sure…
And also, I will be saving up so I can have both tilt and top.
Just when I thought I was done, having just installed a 3rd function and grapple.
Sigh!
Thanks to all!
one thing to watch for; it is important the side link does not drift. As this will screw up your grade. Some Kubotas have leakier internal valves than others. Apparently my B2601 suffered badly from this, and I had to install a check valve on the side link to stop it from drifting. Any cylinder with a check valve will prevent you from using float. When I moved the T&T to the LX I just left the check valve on the side link. Didnt feel like removing it to test the waters of the LX internal valve, I'd rather have the assurance it wouldn't drift.
The check valve adds a few extra points that need seals, but Brian sent me some extra seals, and once I got the check valve itself sealed up, it no longer drifts or moves any amount.
For a one man operation, Brian has the patience of a saint and awesome product support. Receiving his product, simply unbox it, everything fits perfect without the guess work or leg work of DIY, you are off the races in 20 minutes.
The check valve adds a few extra points that need seals, but Brian sent me some extra seals, and once I got the check valve itself sealed up, it no longer drifts or moves any amount.
For a one man operation, Brian has the patience of a saint and awesome product support. Receiving his product, simply unbox it, everything fits perfect without the guess work or leg work of DIY, you are off the races in 20 minutes.
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I bought my hydraulic top link from https://www.surpluscenter.com/shop.axd/Search?keywords=top+link
They have a few sizes to choose from.
My tilt cylinder came from Kubota. It ran around $500 for my L47.
All hoses were acquired locally.
They have a few sizes to choose from.
My tilt cylinder came from Kubota. It ran around $500 for my L47.
All hoses were acquired locally.
I ordered a hydraulic top link from the attached website a couple weeks. Received it last week and it seems to be a good quality. Not to Fit Rite level, but still good.
Hydraulic side links are a little harder to come by and I have one on order from fit rite.
www.tractorinnovations.com
Hydraulic side links are a little harder to come by and I have one on order from fit rite.
Kubota Remote Hydraulic Kits | TractorInnovations
Tractor Innovations Remote Hydraulic Kits for Kubota Tractors. Custom ready to Plug & Play. Made in USA.
www.tractorinnovations.com
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
They are simply OTS welded cylinders with swivel eye ends and two OTS 36" long hoses with male AG tips. All readily available online:
Cylinder: $125
Hoses: 2@$13 each
Tips: 2@$7 each
Port adapters: 4@$2.50 each
Grand total: $175 plus shipping
Dan
I had a fit rite top link on my BX which I bought because I wanted something to match the OEM link and couldn’t find one elsewhere.
The quality is unmatched and he will make just about anything to match your needs. Frankly, I felt bad using it because it was such high quality.
Top link cylinders for the larger machines seem easier to come by, but they are not far off in terms of cost and the quality is not the same, plus when you buy from fit rite, it’s a one man operation so you know who you’re dealing with and I’d much rather buy from someone in the US and support a small business.
I had a top link on order for my B2601 with Fit Rite, but couldn’t wait for it, so I found a top link and have him building me a side link.
ehhhh I'm not sure if 2" diameter with 1 1/4 rods and stroke of 18"-26", with the correct pin spacing for the machine side pivot are found on many shelves.
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
That is not what is being sold by Tractor Innovations. Look at his description.
Category 1
10" Travel
- 2" Diameter Hydraulic Cylinder
- 20" Retracted Length
- 30" Extended Length
- ¾" Pin Diameter
Dan
A different one with 8" stroke
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regarding the first one shown, retracted length too long by 2", and not sure it would fit the tractor side without a bushing.
if the retracted length is too long you cant tilt the box blade 'in' aggressive enough, same goes for rake. No doubt the larger tractors have an easier time than the smaller ones.
@MtnViewRanch
if the retracted length is too long you cant tilt the box blade 'in' aggressive enough, same goes for rake. No doubt the larger tractors have an easier time than the smaller ones.
@MtnViewRanch
TheOldHokie
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
They are the same dimensions he is offering. They have 1: pin holes - bushings are cheap. How short do you want? Let me repeat in case you missed my point - there is nothing special about his offering.
Dan
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