I have a supertight pully bolt that wont free up. Front end is off and engine is on tractor fully supported. I have put it in high gear, handbrake on, a chain around the pulley to take some of the turning force, with rubber under to protect where the fan belt rides. I have hit down the washer ring and soaked it in WD40 but not for long. I am using a breaker bar and there is movement on the bar 1/8 turn before the gears take up and then its when its getting very tight and wont give. I cant access the flywheel but I cant see that more force wouldnt damage or strip the spline even if I could fix the flywheel. I have put quite a bit of force on the nut (bolt) but it wont crack. I have broken a cheap socket bar but I am worried is it possible to twist the crank or strip or twist the clutch spline with too much force? I dont have a rattle gun and have give it one hit to the side with a cold chisel. Tried a bit of tightening also, to go the other way then back ( I assume it is right hand thread). Any clues anyone? I dont want to damage anything now I have gone this far with the project. Is heating of the pulley just outside of the nut a bad idea? How much force can you put on the breaker bar, will I damage something or will it just strip the bolt, which isnt good either? Please help if someone can adivise.
Tight front crankshaft fan drive pulley bolt M4500DT
- Thread starter Fishfarmer
- Start date
TheOldHokie
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Thanks Dan, I was scared of any impact on the front of the crank might damage something.
I know an impact wrench forces it to turn but doesn't it also have some forward impact?
I may overly worry that the main bearing or the thrust bearings on the crank could get damaged?
Barrie
TheOldHokie
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Thanks Dan, you are talking about an impact driver that you hit with a hammer aren't you and it turns as you hit it? That's what we call it in Australia. The other tool you might be talking about, here we call a rattle gun. That's what the tire shop guys use to put your car wheel nuts on?
TheOldHokie
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I don't have either tool but I just had a look and I can make a long steel plate that I can drill so the three pulley bolts will bolt it up then hole saw a hole through the center so I can get the socket on and breaker bar. If it still doesn't free and its still tight I will try a bit of heat on the bolt.
TheOldHokie
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I have made similar devices before with great success. I would be very careful with heat here.
Dan
Yes thank you Dan for your input. I will see if I can borrow an impact wrench if it doesn't work with the tool I will make. Its very tight so I don't want to strip it either, the impact wrench would be the better choice first. I could have put more pressure on the breaker bar but its so tight I was worried that I might twist the crank or strip a spline, so i stopped until I can fix the pulley or use the impact inertial force of the wrench... which is the better first option
GreensvilleJay
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Don't use the impact just yet !!
Tighten that bolt ,just a bit...then try to loosen it
you say it already moves a 'bit'.
when it 'binds up', lightly tighten it again, then loosen it up
every time you do this, you'll make a little progress getting the bolt out
yes it might take a zillion 'in-outs', but it is SAFE and bolt won't shear off !
Better to spend an hour getting the bolt out, than 2 DAYS repairing busted parts and 'mumbling under your breath'....
You can do the same thing with an impact gun but NEVER just set to 'out' and blindly pull the trigger !
You need to 'burp' the gun which can be tricky as you can't 'feel' how bad the bolt is binding up
Tighten that bolt ,just a bit...then try to loosen it
you say it already moves a 'bit'.
when it 'binds up', lightly tighten it again, then loosen it up
every time you do this, you'll make a little progress getting the bolt out
yes it might take a zillion 'in-outs', but it is SAFE and bolt won't shear off !
Better to spend an hour getting the bolt out, than 2 DAYS repairing busted parts and 'mumbling under your breath'....
You can do the same thing with an impact gun but NEVER just set to 'out' and blindly pull the trigger !
You need to 'burp' the gun which can be tricky as you can't 'feel' how bad the bolt is binding up
85Hokie
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" 'mumbling under your breath'.... " .............. me - I will be INVENTING new words as as the wrench flies across the shed! 
If someone has installed that bolt using LockTite (especially green) it will take heat on the bolt to unlock it. Is there any evidence that someone has had that bolt out previously? (Might be too late to detect that if you’ve been working on it (due to tool marks) unless you can see excess LockTite surrounding it.)
I would take a torch and heat the bolt/nut…not the pulley….and do so judiciously to avoid cooking the oil-seal behind it. (However, if you get that pulley off you might think about replacing the oil seal anyway while you’re in there.)
On the engine on MY M-model, there is a ”caution” on re-installation not to over-torque it to avoid creating an oil leak due to stressing the oil seal. (115 ft lbs max)
I would take a torch and heat the bolt/nut…not the pulley….and do so judiciously to avoid cooking the oil-seal behind it. (However, if you get that pulley off you might think about replacing the oil seal anyway while you’re in there.)
On the engine on MY M-model, there is a ”caution” on re-installation not to over-torque it to avoid creating an oil leak due to stressing the oil seal. (115 ft lbs max)
I had my L3300 crank nut and fan pulley off awhile back for a oil seal replacement. Had to take the radiator out in order to get the impact wrench with deep socket in there. Nut came right off no problem. I use a air impact wrench and had to buy the socket didn't have one big enough, but as noted above by GeoHorn torque specs say 115 lbs.
Good luck, having the right tools always makes things like this go easy.
I think we are talking about the same thing what you call bolt i call nut or
maybe i'm misunderstanding.
Good luck, having the right tools always makes things like this go easy.
I think we are talking about the same thing what you call bolt i call nut or
maybe i'm misunderstanding.
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fwiw I would try a really good penetrating oil first - least amount of possible damage. My personal preference is a product called Mouse Milk but there are others - all better than WD40
Mouse Milk worked unbelievably for me when I tried to adjust the 3 pt lowering speed adjuster on my new to me tractor. It wouldn't budge even with a large adjustable pliers. Let it soak overnight, turned by hand in the AM.
Mouse Milk worked unbelievably for me when I tried to adjust the 3 pt lowering speed adjuster on my new to me tractor. It wouldn't budge even with a large adjustable pliers. Let it soak overnight, turned by hand in the AM.
GreensvilleJay
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BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
No I didnt say the nut moves I said the breaker bar moves an 1/8 turn until the gears take up, so I meant the whole lot is turning, pulley, crank, through clutch to wheels then its springy tight, too tight to go on, I was scared of stripping something because I have a long breaker bar. If it moved at all I know I could free it backwards and forwards like you said. Its the initial movement that's solid, probably rusted but maybe locktite as GeoHorn has said.
I will have a look today but like you say no clear evidence of locktitie just the blue tractor paint. I am thinking the same about heating up the bolt head a bit then try, then a bit more and try etc. Will try penetrant but I cant see anything freeing this up, it would be a world cure. I think heat or anticlockwise quick impact. Will follow 115 psi for retightening. There is a lot more than 115psi I have been putting on it for loosening and no budge. I will put in a new oil seal and oring on the crank as a precaution anyway. First I will make the wheel pulley fixer bar, if its still super tight then some heat.
I call it a nut when it comes off a thread and its a bolt if the thread is on the hex head. I was just saying both because some pulleys have nuts and the crank has a thread on it. Mine has a thread in to the crank with a hex head bolt that holds the pulley on. It has a wide fixed flange/ washer as part of the hex head. I hope that helps if I used a poor explanation thanks
I am willing to try any penetrant but nothing will reach the thread I wouldn't think because it has such a wide washer as part of the hex head. it would need to penetrate 3/4 of an inch to even get to the thread.
I can only see heat or freezing to free up the threads. Maybe the new pulley holder tool will work with a bit of heat first, then try and work it to and fro. if not when I go to the hardware they have the mouse milk. I will get some anyway for the other jobs it will work on. Thanks for the tip.