The last thing I expected in this thread was a pic of a store-bought Schwinn!!Some more pictures of it assembled. Then I had to put the grand daughters' new ride together.
Imagine the bad-a$$ bike you could build for her.
Dean
The last thing I expected in this thread was a pic of a store-bought Schwinn!!Some more pictures of it assembled. Then I had to put the grand daughters' new ride together.
How many ports are on them, other than the work ports? What are they labeled?Can you tell by looking at them? The other two valves had no literature with them.
Kenny he actually has a handle on the Hydraulic pump drive system, he has a good pump, good valve, good sump and good cooler, it's just trying to run a high flow system and a low flow control in same circuit is got him out of sync.It might be time to rethink the whole plan, note that I have NOT read this entire thread from the beginning but I think that powering the rotor from the PTO is actually the best option as using the hydraulics just opens up more cans of worms.
Here is a great build that was detailed over on the GTT forum: http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...ion/21777-just-gizmo-stump-grinder-build.html
OK, Good, I did skim the thread later and saw some of that along with the fabulous fab work he has done.Kenny he actually has a handle on the Hydraulic pump drive system, he has a good pump, good valve, good sump and good cooler, it's just trying to run a high flow system and a low flow control in same circuit is got him out of sync.![]()
. One question I have is starting the wheel. I imagined that using the clutch to get the wheel spinning and then increasing the RPM would be the best. Thoughts?[/QUOTE said:Heres a "FWIW (for what its worth) comment. You may remember my post describing my little BX25 running a PTO grinder. When engaging the rather heavy 26x3/4" wheel on it I first was engaging the PTO at around idle rpms but that was really giving a "shudder" so I started experimenting with rpms and found that increasing to the 2000-2200 range was the best 'sweet spot' range......
Appreciate your efforts!Yooper
I'm sorry that my attempts at help in your other thread won't pan out.
The control/valve maker doesn't sell retail and all their products are solenoid controlled.
If you moved several thousand $ of their product a week you'd get a savvy applications engineer to solve your issues...I'm not that guy, just worked with him.
But absolutely you could feather the wheel and have a brake function, should be simpler having it's own fluid source.
I'm not sure the valve I have will do that. Its the detent motor spool valve from Northern Tool that seems to be on or off. Maybe its possible to 'feather' start it. I don't know.I would stay with the motor control valve as it will give you the varible speed and slow startup and slow down.
It's also faster to stop the unit in an emergency!