Stump grinder build

Caboose

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B2650HST
Aug 16, 2016
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Some more pictures of it assembled. Then I had to put the grand daughters' new ride together.
The last thing I expected in this thread was a pic of a store-bought Schwinn!! :D With your machining skills and the quality materials/parts you use, didn't it hurt your heart a little to be working with that?

Imagine the bad-a$$ bike you could build for her.

Dean
 

Yooper

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3901 LA525
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This is where I'm needing advice. Valve #1 is a motor spool valve, obviously for running the hydraulic motor. There is no power beyond on this valve. Is there a way I could still power the joystick (#2) and the boom extender valve (#3) ??
The other thought I had is using the PTO pump just for the motor and running the others off of the tractor hydraulics by adding a rear remote.

Hoping somebody can help me with this.
 

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cviola2005

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Jun 8, 2016
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Do the other valves have power beyond? Is it possible to send power first to the joystick, then the boom extender, and the to the motor spool valve, having a return at the boom extender and the spool valve?

Not sure if that makes sense.
 

Kennyd4110

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Can you tell by looking at them? The other two valves had no literature with them.
How many ports are on them, other than the work ports? What are they labeled?

It's very hard to offer specific advice without specific information.

When you say running off of the tractor, do you mean you will plumb this device into the existing (or added) PB loop on your tractor? Like you would when installing a backhoe? This is the BEST way.

Here a simple diagram on adding valves with PB in series: http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/infobuild/basic_hydraulic.pdf

Or do you mean you will use some existing rear remotes to feed this new device?

Using a PTO pump is a mixed bag: You'll get more power and flow, and won't need a valve (just turn the PTO on/off), but it will cost a lot more and you'll have to add a separate on-board tank and possibly a cooler to deal with the generated heat.
 

cviola2005

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Maybe with a few close up pics of each valve, we could design a diagram. We will have to know how many ports on each and if they are labeled.

I would say that one would want power at the motor spool valve first, then the up/down/left/right boom valve, then the boom extender valve. But since your motor spool (let's call the MS) valve doesn't have PB, that would be a problem. But, maybe you could put a "T" in, splitting to the MS and boom valves (with boom valves hooked in series). Then put a relief valve on the PB of the booms valves. That should give power to the MS, without anything blowing up. IF IM WRONG, PLEASE SOMEONE CORRECT QUICKLY.

I can draw a diagram of my idea if needed. Just let me know.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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If you put the motor valve after any other valve with PB and you operate that valve it will reduce flow to the last valve or to the motor as it will bypass fluid flow strait to the tank.

Are all the in and out ports the same size?

I personally would only use the PTO pump for the motor circuit and use the Tractor pump for the controls, that way as you move the unit you will not reduce the flow and speed to the cutter head.

First Option:
PTO pump for motor
Tractor Pump for controls

Second option:
Just make a series circuit out of the whole PTO system, out of pump, to in of one valve out of that valve, to in of the next, and so on, I would make the motor valve the last, that will only work well if all the ports are the same size, also if there is any restriction on a valve, like the Joystick valve, it will restrict flow and speed to the cutter head and cause a large heat gain.

Third option:
You will need a regulated / controlled Tee valve (won't work with a normal open tee, as it would just flow to the easiest path), send one side to the control valves and the other side to the motor valve.
 

Kennyd4110

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North Idaho Wolfman

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It might be time to rethink the whole plan, note that I have NOT read this entire thread from the beginning but I think that powering the rotor from the PTO is actually the best option as using the hydraulics just opens up more cans of worms.

Here is a great build that was detailed over on the GTT forum: http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...ion/21777-just-gizmo-stump-grinder-build.html
Kenny he actually has a handle on the Hydraulic pump drive system, he has a good pump, good valve, good sump and good cooler, it's just trying to run a high flow system and a low flow control in same circuit is got him out of sync. ;)
 

Kennyd4110

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Kenny he actually has a handle on the Hydraulic pump drive system, he has a good pump, good valve, good sump and good cooler, it's just trying to run a high flow system and a low flow control in same circuit is got him out of sync. ;)
OK, Good, I did skim the thread later and saw some of that along with the fabulous fab work he has done.

He was asking about how to plumb the motor valve with PB so I thought he was trying to power it from the tractor. Plus in another thread he was asking about an electric motor spool valve.

My suggestion then is to loose the motor valve all together-just turn the PTO on or off to control the rotor. Less parts, fewer hoses, less restriction, less heat, more gooder:D
 

Yooper

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Thanks for the responses! I'm going to use the PTO pump to just power the grinder wheel. I like Ken's idea for a straight through hook up as long as I install a pressure relief valve per Princes instruction sheet. The valve I have now has the pressure relief built in plus it gives me a way to shut off the wheel. Still thinking this over.

One question I have is starting the wheel. I imagined that using the clutch to get the wheel spinning and then increasing the RPM would be the best. But it may be possible to use the motor spool valve to engage the wheel by slowly engaging the valve. Thoughts?
 

Alphonse

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L-35
Feb 16, 2016
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Yooper
I'm sorry that my attempts at help in your other thread won't pan out.
The control/valve maker doesn't sell retail and all their products are solenoid controlled.
If you moved several thousand $ of their product a week you'd get a savvy applications engineer to solve your issues...I'm not that guy, just worked with him.
But absolutely you could feather the wheel and have a brake function, should be simpler having it's own fluid source.
 

pacer

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Oct 3, 2015
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. One question I have is starting the wheel. I imagined that using the clutch to get the wheel spinning and then increasing the RPM would be the best. Thoughts?[/QUOTE said:
Heres a "FWIW (for what its worth) comment. You may remember my post describing my little BX25 running a PTO grinder. When engaging the rather heavy 26x3/4" wheel on it I first was engaging the PTO at around idle rpms but that was really giving a "shudder" so I started experimenting with rpms and found that increasing to the 2000-2200 range was the best 'sweet spot' range......
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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I would stay with the motor control valve as it will give you the varible speed and slow startup and slow down.
It's also faster to stop the unit in an emergency!
 

Yooper

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Yooper
I'm sorry that my attempts at help in your other thread won't pan out.
The control/valve maker doesn't sell retail and all their products are solenoid controlled.
If you moved several thousand $ of their product a week you'd get a savvy applications engineer to solve your issues...I'm not that guy, just worked with him.
But absolutely you could feather the wheel and have a brake function, should be simpler having it's own fluid source.
Appreciate your efforts!
 

Yooper

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I would stay with the motor control valve as it will give you the varible speed and slow startup and slow down.
It's also faster to stop the unit in an emergency!
I'm not sure the valve I have will do that. Its the detent motor spool valve from Northern Tool that seems to be on or off. Maybe its possible to 'feather' start it. I don't know.

You are right on the shut off in case of emergency. If I don't go with the valve, I will install an E stop button tied into the seat switch.
 

Yooper

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Found some Kubota orange powder from a place called Powder Buy the Pound and used it to coat the seat mount. Matched pretty good. Not a cheap date, though.

Working on dialing in the valve mounting so I can begin to plan the hose routing. That motor spool valve...still deciding if it stays or if it goes.
 

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Yooper

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Just sat down and made a list of miscellaneous things I want to get done. I'll work on these as I'm working through the hydraulics set up. Foot rests were one of the things on the list and I found a plate that I tacked on to establish the angle and clearance for the raise cylinder. The foot rests will not only be for comfort, but also for safety because my foot could get pinched when swinging the boom.
 

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