Stump grinder build

[Yooper]

Some more hydraulic questions. Seems the more I research the more confused I get! Need to start planning the hydraulic circuit for the controls on the grinder and looking for the best way. Should I tee off the power beyond line at the loader valve or should I tee off the block on the right side? Looking at my owners manual, they show and explain the block ports on the right side. #2 looks to be pressure from the pump, #1 is described as 'from implement (Outlet), and #3 is 'from implement (Tank port). Can somebody explain the #1 and #3 ports please?

I also noticed this plate on the right side of the transmission. Is this possibly for tapping into hydraulics for rear remotes?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Should I tee off the power beyond line at the loader valve or should I tee off the block on the right side? Looking at my owners manual, they show and explain the block ports on the right side. #2 looks to be pressure from the pump, #1 is described as 'from implement (Outlet), and #3 is 'from implement (Tank port). Can somebody explain the #1 and #3 ports please?

I also noticed this plate on the right side of the transmission. Is this possibly for tapping into hydraulics for rear remotes?

First no TEE it must be a loop.
So, line off of PB back to your controls, then a return line back to where you pulled the PB line off of.

And no that plate on the side of the three point cylinder does not appear to be an add on port.

Three ports on the block are Out [#2] (pressure from pump) IN or PB [#1] (return pressure from loader valve) and tank or return [#3] (unrestricted return from the loader valve, main use is for fast dump).

 

[Kennyd4110]

Here is a basic diagram: http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/infobuild/basic_hydraulic.pdf

As NIW wrote you cannot Tee the PB line, all valves must be added in series.

 

[Yooper]

Thanks guys! I think I got a handle on it now.

 

[Yooper]

Some pictures of the control station and foot rest modification.

 

[Yooper]

Made up a rubber guard for the chips. Need to put some slits in the rubber flap at the bends and also considering three lengths of chain in the back of the flap to keep it from going forward into the wheel.

 

[Lil Foot]

Yooper, every time I see your welds, I hate you.
Beautiful work, as usual.

Ever get over Clintonville way? When I was a tad, my Dad was a Tool Designer at the old 4WD plant, and we rented a house where a hatchet murder had taken place. The space between the windows & storm windows was filled with feathers- for insulation, presumably. Weird.

 

[Yooper]

Probably 15 years since I was there. They actually had an earthquake there a couple of years ago. Big news in these parts!

 

[coachgeo]

Consider a flat bar along bolted to bottom rim of rubber guard with one or two verticle uprights running to top where rubber guard mounts. Nothing thick... just keep the rubber from flapping. Might be better than a dangling chain that can get caught on the griding wheel in some odd scenario.

 

[Caboose]

Yooper, every time I see your welds, I hate you.
Beautiful work, as usual.

I agree. I work with some really good welders that always reference the "stack of dimes" goal for welds. These seem to meet that analogy.

That is one thing I have yet to learn - welding. I am darn close to 50 years old and have NEVER "burnt a rod". It is on my list in the next couple of years to learn and it's examples like this I will use as a reference for what good (correction - great) looks like. I have a feeling I will be sorely disappointed in my welding for a looooong time

Dean

 

[Yooper]

Consider a flat bar along bolted to bottom rim of rubber guard with one or two verticle uprights running to top where rubber guard mounts. Nothing thick... just keep the rubber from flapping. Might be better than a dangling chain that can get caught on the griding wheel in some odd scenario.

The rubber flap at times will be 'scraping' the ground when the cutter wheel has the stump below grade so it has to be flexible.

 

[Yooper]

I agree. I work with some really good welders that always reference the "stack of dimes" goal for welds. These seem to meet that analogy.

That is one thing I have yet to learn - welding. I am darn close to 50 years old and have NEVER "burnt a rod". It is on my list in the next couple of years to learn and it's examples like this I will use as a reference for what good (correction - great) looks like. I have a feeling I will be sorely disappointed in my welding for a looooong time

Dean

Mig (wire) welding is easy to learn and it opens up a whole new world. I would encourage you to pursue it! Lots of stuff on the internet and youtube to help get you started. Just remember, you will only be as good as the equipment will let you.

 

[Yooper]

Couple of pictures of the hydraulic valve set up. Got to admit, that valve for the cutter wheel motor gives me pause. Its supposed to handle 20 gpm but with those 1/2" outlet ports, I don't know. (This is the valve that sticks out toward the back and is mounted 'sideways' with the filter on it) Seriously leaning toward Ken's idea of running the lines straight through. No different than if it was shaft driven.

 

[coachgeo]

The rubber flap at times will be 'scraping' the ground when the cutter wheel has the stump below grade so it has to be flexible.

hmmm. Good point. Sounds like no metal at all should be on bottom of the flap.... or is flap far enough out that even at 90deg. it can not reach the grinding wheel?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

The only thing I see is that I wouldn't put the filter where you have it, it would work better on the suction line between the pump and the tank, but I realize that you might just be limited on space.

1/2 line should flow quite a bit of fluid.

 

[hodge]

Mig (wire) welding is easy to learn and it opens up a whole new world. I would encourage you to pursue it! Lots of stuff on the internet and youtube to help get you started. Just remember, you will only be as good as the equipment will let you.

And, the visual appeal of the weld isn't important- clean, prepped surfaces, proper heat and good penetration, and sufficient design is what matters.

 

[cviola2005]

And, the visual appeal of the weld isn't important- clean, prepped surfaces, proper heat and good penetration, and sufficient design is what matters.

Very good point! My welds look like splattered poo, but have sufficient prenetration to hold. I think I've only ever had one of two welds break in my 10 years of hobby welding. But again, they look no better than splattered poo!


ETA: For the record, your welds look great, Yooper.

 

[Yooper]

hmmm. Good point. Sounds like no metal at all should be on bottom of the flap.... or is flap far enough out that even at 90deg. it can not reach the grinding wheel?

The flap will reach and that's where the chains come in. I've got it figured out (famous last words) and I'll post a picture soon. The chains will only allow the flap to move away from the wheel.

 

[Yooper]

The only thing I see is that I wouldn't put the filter where you have it, it would work better on the suction line between the pump and the tank, but I realize that you might just be limited on space.

1/2 line should flow quite a bit of fluid.

I'm for once actually following the instructions. As you will see from the diagram supplied by Prince, they show the filter on the return side.

Couple of pictures of the control valve and motor. The motor has SAE 10 ports. The control valve has 3/4" npt inlet and outlet ports, and 1/2" npt working ports which can flow 20 gpm no problem as long as I use 3/4" hose. Still thinking on this.

 

[RCW]

Yooper - total layman speaking, but I would keep the valve, and 3/4" hose, if that's what's called for.

As I said before, your welds are astounding!

I have had so much interest in your build - thanks so much!