Rear Floodlight On A LX2610?

[SDT]

I’ve not noticed any glare…I am not sure if it’s the angle or maybe my dash is so dirty nothing would reflect off it? Could be a little of both.

None on my B3350.

 

[19thSF]

Time for my 1st question. I looked around on the search here, Google and YouTube and got a pretty good idea but just wanted some clarification.

I have an lx2610 open station I'm going to plow snow with using the front loader and a rear blade. As of right now I'm going to try with the front lights or atleast led bulbs this season and then maybe next year upgrade more.

I'd like a single rear light to see backing up and the rear light. Growing up that's what most of our tractors had and I don't need to light up the countryside.

I found this light that'd seem to match or blend in with the tractor.
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I found 2 wires under the right fender that are hot when the key is on .
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I hate to snip the ends off of a brand new tractor.......and I'm sure it could be used against me on any warranty but clean secure wiring is my pet peeve and know I can make it look clean and work.

I have a couple of holes in the fender I was thinking of mounting the light and switch to, or maybe on the the side of the rops.

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I just wanted some clarification.........I know enough about power and plumbing to get me in trouble.......

But I can hook 1 tractor wire to a switch and the switch to 1 light wire, then the other tractor wire to a fuse( for extra protection) and the fuse to the other light wire. Correct?
View attachment 110972
You're all open to laugh at the drawing.

The other thought I had was just find a light with a built in switch.

Thank you for the advice.

It looks like the lights you have shown us draw about 4 amps. I believe that the circuit you would use is rated for 10 amps, so you should be OK

Goos luck with it.

Bob

 

[jyoutz]

I bought front and rear facing lights at Harbor freight. They also sell the wiring harness with relay and switch. It’s a direct connection to the battery and an easy installation. No need to mess with original wiring. I’m satisfied with the lights.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

It looks like the lights you have shown us draw about 4 amps. I believe that the circuit you would use is rated for 10 amps, so you should be OK

Goos luck with it.

Bob

Thank you.

 

[animals45]

I have one ot those lights on the back of my L3301 & I am not a bit impressed with it . It will be replaced before winter hits .
animals45

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I have one ot those lights on the back of my L3301 & I am not a bit impressed with it . It will be replaced before winter hits .
animals45

Thank you for the information. Growing up that's all we had on our main tractors and seemed decent and why I was considering it but I'm sure lighting changed since the 1990s

 

[animals45]

That could very well be cause it's from HF , maybe a real one like a Hella would be different . The type of lens makes a difference . I myself have no problem lighting up the hill side , I don't see like I used to .
animals45

 

[Foxrunfarms]

That could very well be cause it's from HF , maybe a real one like a Hella would be different . The type of lens makes a difference . I myself have no problem lighting up the hill side , I don't see like I used to .
animals45

I'm sure there could be a whole discussion on HF stuff. I bought an 8hp pull start Honda clone engine there and love it. I bought a manual log splitter and lasted 3 hours.......

No issue returning it and took that money and got fiskars maul. Night and day difference between a basic maul and that. Truly one swing.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

A little bit of an update. I was doing more thinking and research. At the moment I might get something like this.

That way I can move it around to see how I like it at different hights or angles I can remove it if I don't need it or can mount it on other things.

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

I would suggest that you use a relay.
You'll get WAY more power to the light(s) and take a load off of your fuse box.

In the OP's original post, the power to operate the lights goes through the fuse box and switch.

With a relay, the power to operate the lights comes direct from the battery and puts out as much power as the wire guage you use and the batteries capability. The switch wire only tells the relay to turn on or off, and at low amps.

Sorry for my chicken scratch, I've got the flu today...

 

[NorthwoodsLife]

They are cheap. I use them for lights and lockers and such on my Jeeps, trucks and tractors.

This one's wired different than my chicken scratch drawing. (Ground switch based) But I hope you get the idea.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I would suggest that you use a relay.
You'll get WAY more power to the light(s) and take a load off of your fuse box.

In the OP's original post, the power to operate the lights goes through the fuse box and switch.

With a relay, the power to operate the lights comes direct from the battery and puts out as much power as the wire guage you use and the batteries capability. The switch wire only tells the relay to turn on or off, and at low amps.

Sorry for my chicken scratch, I've got the flu today...
View attachment 114746

No need to apologize I greatly appreciate any advice and the time you took to draw that.

 

[airbiscuit]

I wouldn't cut the wires. Just buy matching plug ends for your system. Here are the type of lights I bought, and the difference from 55w halogens.

 

[Black75betty]

I wouldn't cut the wires. Just buy matching plug ends for your system. Here are the type of lights I bought, and the difference from 55w halogens.

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I have an LX2610 which looks ready for plugging auxiliary lights right in to the existing light system. I bought a set of Artillian lights, which attach to the ROPS, and each light has a switch on it. I like this. I can turn on all the lights at once, or choose to use the work lights as I need them. I have zero electrical experience. How do I connect the 2 sets of wires from each light, to the set of connectors on the tractor?

 

[kubotasaurus]

I have an LX2610 which looks ready for plugging auxiliary lights right in to the existing light system. I bought a set of Artillian lights, which attach to the ROPS, and each light has a switch on it. I like this. I can turn on all the lights at once, or choose to use the work lights as I need them. I have zero electrical experience. How do I connect the 2 sets of wires from each light, to the set of connectors on the tractor?

First, you need to find out how much load your lights will draw if you have them all on at the same time. As stated in other posts above, the light circuit under the fender is only rated for 5A.

 

[The Evil Twin]

I wouldn't cut the wires. Just buy matching plug ends for your system. Here are the type of lights I bought, and the difference from 55w halogens.

View attachment 114749
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Where did you find a matching connector? That would be ideal, but I could never find one.

 

[airbiscuit]

This is the type of plug that matched my New Holland.

 

[The Evil Twin]

That's not on the big orange flavor.

 

[airbiscuit]

Take a picture of it and take it to an auto parts store, or do google lens. (or post a picture of it on this thread)

 

[The Evil Twin]

I thought you found one for your Kubota. Lots of people ask, so I was interested where you found it. It's been the source of numerous threads.
It was faster to pin a water tight automotive connector it than it was to go to the parts store. Searches yielded nothing useful. Lots that looked similar, but no measurements.