Rear Floodlight On A LX2610?

[Foxrunfarms]

Speaking as someone who recently installed LEDs on my B...
There is one advantage to running halogens over LEDs for winter work. As mentioned above, halogens will create a lot of heat. The snow will melt off of the lamp. I haven't used mine in winter yet, but other lighting posts (I believe here on OTT) complain that LEDs in the front headlights won't melt the snow off of the plastic housing.

As for wiring, I'll second what others have said above. The connector you located should already be fused for a 5A work light. You can buy the bullet connectors so you won't have to cut the existing connectors on the tractor. Add a weatherproof switch on the positive lead between the bullet connector and your light. Don't forget the heat-shrink tubing and split loom to protect the wires. Lastly, crack open a cold one and bask in the glory of a job well done!

Thank you. Growing up we ran those style lights on the back of our farm tractors and you're right rain/snow evaporate right off them. I've wired subwoofers in my trucks and rewired old tractors and everyone commented how nice and clean everything. It's easier to wire everything nice, tight and clean the 1st time, rather than doing it with frozen fingures.

 

[ve9aa]

The difference is night and day (pun intended) between the regular lights and when I turn on the LED rops lights. In my case I am snowblowing, not plowing, but I'll assume it's even HARDER to see with a big bucket out in front of you, raising it up/down.

I spent MAYBE $100 on Amazon for a big LED light bar (facing forward) a couple floods facing more-or-less backwards (slight angle) and a strobey-dooey (not shown in these pix) for when I am near the road or have to cross it to help out a neighbour.

Best $100 I ever spent on lighting, hands down. Night time here in the country it's as dark as the inside of a cow...no street lighting and far enough from houses not to get really anything in the way of porch lighting illuminating the driveway. You can see it looks like daytime in my driveway.

Watched my neighbour struggle for a decade with an old International with 2 piss weak bulbs facing 1 fwd and 1 backwards and he ran into stuff all the time. Even ran the machine into the ditch once and had to yank him out with the LAnd Rover.

My advice: Spend the $50--$100 so you can see where you're going. You spent $30k or whatever on a beautiful machine. Protect it and yourself and the belongings in the yard at night, in the winter.

 

[SDT]

Time for my 1st question. I looked around on the search here, Google and YouTube and got a pretty good idea but just wanted some clarification.

I have an lx2610 open station I'm going to plow snow with using the front loader and a rear blade. As of right now I'm going to try with the front lights or atleast led bulbs this season and then maybe next year upgrade more.

I'd like a single rear light to see backing up and the rear light. Growing up that's what most of our tractors had and I don't need to light up the countryside.

I found this light that'd seem to match or blend in with the tractor.
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I found 2 wires under the right fender that are hot when the key is on .
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I hate to snip the ends off of a brand new tractor.......and I'm sure it could be used against me on any warranty but clean secure wiring is my pet peeve and know I can make it look clean and work.

I have a couple of holes in the fender I was thinking of mounting the light and switch to, or maybe on the the side of the rops.

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I just wanted some clarification.........I know enough about power and plumbing to get me in trouble.......

But I can hook 1 tractor wire to a switch and the switch to 1 light wire, then the other tractor wire to a fuse( for extra protection) and the fuse to the other light wire. Correct?
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You're all open to laugh at the drawing.

The other thought I had was just find a light with a built in switch.

Thank you for the advice.

I have the Kubota rear work light on my B3350. Yes, it is expensive, but it comes with everything necessary to attach it to the ROPS, and works as expected. I replaced the OEM bulb with an inexpensive LED replacement readily available from multiple online sources.

I also added a HF 22" light bar to the inside (beneath) the ROPS using the optional HF wiring package. You will wonder how you could get by without it.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

The difference is night and day (pun intended) between the regular lights and when I turn on the LED rops lights. In my case I am snowblowing, not plowing, but I'll assume it's even HARDER to see with a big bucket out in front of you, raising it up/down.

I spent MAYBE $100 on Amazon for a big LED light bar (facing forward) a couple floods facing more-or-less backwards (slight angle) and a strobey-dooey (not shown in these pix) for when I am near the road or have to cross it to help out a neighbour.

Best $100 I ever spent on lighting, hands down. Night time here in the country it's as dark as the inside of a cow...no street lighting and far enough from houses not to get really anything in the way of porch lighting illuminating the driveway. You can see it looks like daytime in my driveway.

Watched my neighbour struggle for a decade with an old International with 2 piss weak bulbs facing 1 fwd and 1 backwards and he ran into stuff all the time. Even ran the machine into the ditch once and had to yank him out with the LAnd Rover.

My advice: Spend the $50--$100 so you can see where you're going. You spent $30k or whatever on a beautiful machine. Protect it and yourself and the belongings in the yard at night, in the winter.

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Thanks. I'm considering different options at moment. I was thinking about a light bar up on top because I fear the loader will be in the way. I have older farm sheds and just barely make it under during summer with the rops up. I'm guessing once I pack down snow it'll raise up the tractor.

Good point on spending money on the tractor......don't cheap out on lights.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I have the Kubota rear work light on my B3350. Yes, it is expensive, but it comes with everything necessary to attach it to the ROPS, and works as expected. I replaced the OEM bulb with an inexpensive LED replacement readily available from multiple online sources.

I also added a HF 22" light bar to the inside (beneath) the ROPS using the optional HF wiring package. You will wonder how you could get by without it.

Thank you. That was something I was thinking about too. Buy the right kit and have it done right and nicely.

 

[06B3030]

I just installed these LED headlight bulbs and really happy with them.

I also installed a magnetic mount LED Spot and used this Wiring Harness.
I tapped into the work light wiring under the right tail light. I cut the connectors, soldered them and used heat shrink tubing with the harness. I also mounted the relay up under there as well. Ran the switch back to the dash.

Head lights AND LED spot on ROPS...

 

[GrizBota]

I just installed these LED headlight bulbs and really happy with them.

I also installed a magnetic mount LED Spot and used this Wiring Harness.
I tapped into the work light wiring under the right tail light. I cut the connectors, soldered them and used heat shrink tubing with the harness. I also mounted the relay up under there as well. Ran the switch back to the dash.

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Wow. Those OEM replacements seem to be a huge improvement.

 

[06B3030]

Wow. Those OEM replacements seem to be a huge improvement.

OOPS...the picture at the bottom was with the LED head lights AND the LED spot on the ROPS.

The LEDs in the head lights did make a big difference by themselves.

 

[GrizBota]

OOPS...the picture at the bottom was with the LED head lights AND the LED spot on the ROPS.

The LEDs in the head lights did make a big difference by themselves.

Well now, that explains why I was a bit surprised at how well they worked.

 

[06B3030]

The rear work light circuit is fused at 20A in my tractor (B3030). It should be called out in the Owners Manual...

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I just installed these LED headlight bulbs and really happy with them.

I also installed a magnetic mount LED Spot and used this Wiring Harness.
I tapped into the work light wiring under the right tail light. I cut the connectors, soldered them and used heat shrink tubing with the harness. I also mounted the relay up under there as well. Ran the switch back to the dash.

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Head lights AND LED spot on ROPS...

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Thanks for the links. That looks like a pretty nice and simple plug and play harness. It almost makes me think about doing all the lights at once.

 

[06B3030]

Thanks for the links. That looks like a pretty nice and simple plug and play harness. It almost makes me think about doing all the lights at once.

It was very nicely made. There were some comments about the switch quality, but I think it's fine!

It fit nicely in a "snap-in" panel I had on the side of the dash. Better than drilling a hole in the dash panel itself. I just have to paint another set of screws black.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

It was very nicely made. There were some comments about the switch quality, but I think it's fine!

It fit nicely in a "snap-in" panel I had on the side of the dash. Better than drilling a hole in the dash panel itself. I just have to paint another set of screws black.

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That looks sharp. I was thinking of a box or side panel so I wouldn't have to drill into the dash and could be removed if I wanted to.

 

[rc51stierhoff]

I have a light bar (aimed forward) on the underside of the top cross of the rops and two smaller lights for behind on one of my machines. I did it this way thinking I could angle one of the lights down to the implement and PTO area and still have one so I can see further back. The combination works very well (it’s nice if want to hook up or un-hook in the dark) as well as if loading on a trailer at night…I even use when backing down the lane at night if tractor is on the trailer), however I am contemplating a canopy and I worry the light bar will have some shadow effect from a canopy. If and when I get out of the analysis paralysis I may have to switch or move the configuration. I guess my point is if thinking anbout a canopy I’d think about that when mounting the lights. Eventually I’ll add them to my B as well. They are super helpful and I suspect it if prevents me from hitting something it was money well spent.

 

[06B3030]

That looks sharp. I was thinking of a box or side panel so I wouldn't have to drill into the dash and could be removed if I wanted to.

That's why I mounted it there...if the switch was to fail...it would be an easy fix!!!!

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I have a light bar (aimed forward) on the underside of the top cross of the rops and two smaller lights for behind on one of my machines. I did it this way thinking I could angle one of the lights down to the implement and PTO area and still have one so I can see further back. The combination works very well (it’s nice if want to hook up or un-hook in the dark) as well as if loading on a trailer at night…I even use when backing down the lane at night if tractor is on the trailer), however I am contemplating a canopy and I worry the light bar will have some shadow effect from a canopy. If and when I get out of the analysis paralysis I may have to switch or move the configuration. I guess my point is if thinking anbout a canopy I’d think about that when mounting the lights. Eventually I’ll add them to my B as well. They are super helpful and I suspect it if prevents me from hitting something it was money well spent.

Thanks for the extra info. A canopy crossed my mind but at the moment need to fold down the rops from time to time.

 

[JasonW]

I’ll add older picture of mine with a canopy.
I have mine setup through a main auxiliary fuse block mounted under the dash. Its a 20” light bar facing forward, 12” facing rearward and two cube led lights on each side.
Single double pole double throw switch is mounted on the dash for the lights and separate push button switch for the overhead fan. Wiring runs up the left side of the ROPS, leave enough slack in the wires at the pivot point to fold the ROPS down as needed. No issues with shadows from the canopy.

 

[The Evil Twin]

I have a light bar (aimed forward) on the underside of the top cross of the rops and two smaller lights for behind on one of my machines. I did it this way thinking I could angle one of the lights down to the implement and PTO area and still have one so I can see further back. The combination works very well (it’s nice if want to hook up or un-hook in the dark) as well as if loading on a trailer at night…I even use when backing down the lane at night if tractor is on the trailer), however I am contemplating a canopy and I worry the light bar will have some shadow effect from a canopy. If and when I get out of the analysis paralysis I may have to switch or move the configuration. I guess my point is if thinking anbout a canopy I’d think about that when mounting the lights. Eventually I’ll add them to my B as well. They are super helpful and I suspect it if prevents me from hitting something it was money well spent.

How's the glare on the dash with it mounted under the ROPS? I've heard some say it's ammnnoying. Obviously depends in angle, light bar, operator height, etc. I mounted mine outside the ROPS on the sides. It's fine, but I've been doing tight woods clean up and they got snagged a lot. Not damaged, jut annoying. Especially when twigs get pulled onto the back of your neck. And all I can think of is... SPIDERS!!!!

 

[rc51stierhoff]

How's the glare on the dash with it mounted under the ROPS? I've heard some say it's ammnnoying. Obviously depends in angle, light bar, operator height, etc. I mounted mine outside the ROPS on the sides. It's fine, but I've been doing tight woods clean up and they got snagged a lot. Not damaged, jut annoying. Especially when twigs get pulled onto the back of your neck. And all I can think of is... SPIDERS!!!!

I’ve not noticed any glare…I am not sure if it’s the angle or maybe my dash is so dirty nothing would reflect off it? Could be a little of both.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Right o. Maybe I'll do a temporary mount to see.