Rear Floodlight On A LX2610?

[Foxrunfarms]

Time for my 1st question. I looked around on the search here, Google and YouTube and got a pretty good idea but just wanted some clarification.

I have an lx2610 open station I'm going to plow snow with using the front loader and a rear blade. As of right now I'm going to try with the front lights or atleast led bulbs this season and then maybe next year upgrade more.

I'd like a single rear light to see backing up and the rear light. Growing up that's what most of our tractors had and I don't need to light up the countryside.

I found this light that'd seem to match or blend in with the tractor.

I found 2 wires under the right fender that are hot when the key is on .

I hate to snip the ends off of a brand new tractor.......and I'm sure it could be used against me on any warranty but clean secure wiring is my pet peeve and know I can make it look clean and work.

I have a couple of holes in the fender I was thinking of mounting the light and switch to, or maybe on the the side of the rops.

I just wanted some clarification.........I know enough about power and plumbing to get me in trouble.......

But I can hook 1 tractor wire to a switch and the switch to 1 light wire, then the other tractor wire to a fuse( for extra protection) and the fuse to the other light wire. Correct?

You're all open to laugh at the drawing.

The other thought I had was just find a light with a built in switch.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Amazon look up LED lights, I like Auxbeam just put a 15" on the front of the new Cam-am UTV for plowing.

 

[beckmurph]

I put these on the b2650 I had.
I really liked them.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Amazon look up LED lights, I like Auxbeam just put a 15" on the front of the new Cam-am UTV for plowing.

Thanks. I'm going to try the light I'm looking at. I was just double checking if my wiring was correct and what size to use.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I put these on the b2650 I had.
I really liked them.

Thanks. I'm going to try the light I'm looking at. I was just double checking if my wiring was correct and what size to use.

 

[i7win7]

55watts / 12volts = 4.58amps
use a 5 amp fuse for single light

3rd photo shows "bullet" connectors not sure which size you need

 

[GrizBota]

The female bullet connector on the tractor should be the positive. I believe it is also fused in the fuse box as the work light circuit. You mention the circuit you found is hot when the key on. Do you have a a OEM work light switch (I’m thinking you don’t)? You might pull the work light fuse to confirm that is the circuit you’ve found.

I always put both the switch and fuse on the positive lead (since the chassis is ground). I like to put the fuse as close to the power source as I can to maximize the amount of the wire length the fuse protects. If indeed you’re already taping into the fused work light circuit, it wouldn’t need another (but in theory you could put a fuse in every two inches, it might not help much, but it would hurt anything either). I would not bother with a fuse on the ground line. Some light assemblies are grounded to the housing too. In which case a fuse in the ground circuit would not likely do anything.

You can match the gauge of wire you use to that of the tractor. Probably 16 maybe 18 gauge. I think the work light circuit is fused at 5 amps (35 watts).

(revised the work light fuse amperage and likely wire gauge)

 

[Foxrunfarms]

55watts / 12volts = 4.58amps
use a 5 amp fuse for single light

3rd photo shows "bullet" connectors not sure which size you need

Thank you.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

The female bullet connector on the tractor should be the positive. I believe it is also fused in the fuse box as the work light circuit. You mention the circuit you found is hot when the key on. Do you have a a OEM work light switch (I’m thinking you don’t)? You might pull the work light fuse to confirm that is the circuit you’ve found.

I always put both the switch and fuse on the positive lead (since the chassis is ground). I like to put the fuse as close to the power source as I can to maximize the amount of the wire length the fuse protects. If indeed you’re already taping into the fused work light circuit, it wouldn’t need another (but in theory you could put a fuse in every two inches, it might not help much, but it would hurt anything either). I would not bother with a fuse on the ground line. Some light assemblies are grounded to the housing too. In which case a fuse in the ground circuit would not likely do anything.

You can match the gauge of wire you use to that of the tractor. Probably 16, maybe 18. I think the work light circuit is fused at 7.5 or 10 amps.

Thank you.

 

[imnukensc]

I'm sure it'll work, but I'd've gone with LED instead of a halogen. An LED will draw much less amperage for the equivalent amount of light.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

odds are halogen lamp will pop a 5 amp fuse, they also generate a LOT of heat....
LEDs are the way to go, cheap, last longer, more Lumens per watt

 

[The Evil Twin]

Time for my 1st question. I looked around on the search here, Google and YouTube and got a pretty good idea but just wanted some clarification.

I have an lx2610 open station I'm going to plow snow with using the front loader and a rear blade. As of right now I'm going to try with the front lights or atleast led bulbs this season and then maybe next year upgrade more.

I'd like a single rear light to see backing up and the rear light. Growing up that's what most of our tractors had and I don't need to light up the countryside.

I found this light that'd seem to match or blend in with the tractor.
View attachment 110968
View attachment 110969

I found 2 wires under the right fender that are hot when the key is on .
View attachment 110966
I hate to snip the ends off of a brand new tractor.......and I'm sure it could be used against me on any warranty but clean secure wiring is my pet peeve and know I can make it look clean and work.

I have a couple of holes in the fender I was thinking of mounting the light and switch to, or maybe on the the side of the rops.

View attachment 110970
View attachment 110971

I just wanted some clarification.........I know enough about power and plumbing to get me in trouble.......

But I can hook 1 tractor wire to a switch and the switch to 1 light wire, then the other tractor wire to a fuse( for extra protection) and the fuse to the other light wire. Correct?
View attachment 110972
You're all open to laugh at the drawing.

The other thought I had was just find a light with a built in switch.

Thank you for the advice.

Extra protection won't hurt, but the work light circuit should already be fused. You want the fuse as close to the source as possible anyway. As someone suggested, pull the work light fuse and check for voltage. That will verify it is indeed the circuit. An incandescent light doesn't care about polarity, FYI.
The fuse and switch should be in the hot lead. Personally, I don't add an extra switch. If the headlights are on, they are all on. That's a matter of preference.
You will likely be disappointed in the headlights no matter what bulb you put in. For snow, the LED pop ins may be worse because of reflection off of falling/ drifting snow. You might want to start thinking of dual color floods for the front. There are cheap and expensive versions. My preference is one that will do amber and white together. That knocks the edge off of the reflection.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

Extra protection won't hurt, but the work light circuit should already be fused. You want the fuse as close to the source as possible anyway. As someone suggested, pull the work light fuse and check for voltage. That will verify it is indeed the circuit. An incandescent light doesn't care about polarity, FYI.
The fuse and switch should be in the hot lead. Personally, I don't add an extra switch. If the headlights are on, they are all on. That's a matter of preference.
You will likely be disappointed in the headlights no matter what bulb you put in. For snow, the LED pop ins may be worse because of reflection off of falling/ drifting snow. You might want to start thinking of dual color floods for the front. There are cheap and expensive versions. My preference is one that will do amber and white together. That knocks the edge off of the reflection.

Thank you. Good point about If the lights are on they're all on. I'll have to double check but I believe those wires are hot when the key is on. So the rear light would be on no matter if the main light switch is on or off. Where I work I prefer running an older skid plowing snow vs one with leds. My truck had yellow fog lamps and really liked those in snow.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

odds are halogen lamp will pop a 5 amp fuse, they also generate a LOT of heat....
LEDs are the way to go, cheap, last longer, more Lumens per watt

Thank you. I didn't think of that.

 

[The Evil Twin]

Thank you. Good point about If the lights are on they're all on. I'll have to double check but I believe those wires are hot when the key is on. So the rear light would be on no matter if the main light switch is on or off. Where I work I prefer running an older skid plowing snow vs one with leds. My truck had yellow fog lamps and really liked those in snow.

Ah, I missed the part about being on with the key! Well....then that would be cause for a switch. Lol!!
BTW, there is a kit that I use for making wiring harness connections. It's a bit pricy to buy in, but once you do only the pieces need to be replenished. It comes with the tools and various connectors to get you started. It'll look BETTER than factory and be water tight. They can't void your warranty for adding lights. Unless you melt that circuit. Then it's just that repair. Not the whole rig.

Eastwood Crimp-Right Weather-Tight Wiring Connector Crimping Kit

Install factory style weather proof connectors in your wiring harness

www.eastwood.com

 

[cthomas]

You should have the switch on the positive wire and make sure the switch is weather proof. Also I would use a LED light as they are brighter, use less energy, and more vibration resistance. I installed Nilight Leds on a lot of equipment(my toys and the neighbors after seeing mine). For connections weatherpack, delphi, metric-pak are all good connectors. I prefer soldered and heat shrinked wiring connections.

 

[Foxrunfarms]

You should have the switch on the positive wire and make sure the switch is weather proof. Also I would use a LED light as they are brighter, use less energy, and more vibration resistance. I installed Nilight Leds on a lot of equipment(my toys and the neighbors after seeing mine). For connections weatherpack, delphi, metric-pak are all good connectors. I prefer soldered and heat shrinked wiring connections.

Thank you . All stuff I'll have to think about and consider.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I hooked the LEDs on my BX23s to one of those $10, 4 chanl RF relay units. 1 for rear lights, 1 for fronts, 1 for the garage door opener. The key fob 'ring' is on the 'cruise control' lever.

 

[kubotasaurus]

Speaking as someone who recently installed LEDs on my B...
There is one advantage to running halogens over LEDs for winter work. As mentioned above, halogens will create a lot of heat. The snow will melt off of the lamp. I haven't used mine in winter yet, but other lighting posts (I believe here on OTT) complain that LEDs in the front headlights won't melt the snow off of the plastic housing.

As for wiring, I'll second what others have said above. The connector you located should already be fused for a 5A work light. You can buy the bullet connectors so you won't have to cut the existing connectors on the tractor. Add a weatherproof switch on the positive lead between the bullet connector and your light. Don't forget the heat-shrink tubing and split loom to protect the wires. Lastly, crack open a cold one and bask in the glory of a job well done!

 

[Foxrunfarms]

I hooked the LEDs on my BX23s to one of those $10, 4 chanl RF relay units. 1 for rear lights, 1 for fronts, 1 for the garage door opener. The key fob 'ring' is on the 'cruise control' lever.

Sounds really cool. Will the upgrade be "Alexia, turn on the front lights" lol.