Ran tractor out of oil, need to pull the engine

SumoChas

New member

Equipment
MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
Welp, My first post here and it's a doozie. Tractor is a 2014 MX4800 HST with 300 hours on it :cry:

Here's the story: My father was running our tractor with a grapple up front moving piles of cedar. My best guess as to what happened is a cedar branch got lifted up when he was rolling backwards, and actually hit the engine oil filter, unspinning it slightly from the sealing surface. That's unfortunate, but here is the kicker: he thought the low oil pressure light was the DPF light, and continued to use the tractor until he felt the engine bog down, then shut it off and left the tractor where it was.

I wasn't out at the land with him at the time, but came back out the following week to assess the damage. I filled up the engine oil, reseated the oil filter, and fired the tractor back up. Oil pressure light was no longer illuminated after a few seconds. Engine sounded healthy as I let it idle for a few minutes, so I thought we got lucky. The problem came as soon as I revved it up to drive it back to the overhang we park it under. The engine had a knock.

I didn't want to just leave the tractor in the field and work on it in the texas summer sun so I drove it a hundred yards (knowingly driving it with a knock) to get it parked under the shade.

Hoping that the issue was a spun big-end rod bearing, the following weekend I went back out and drained the oil, removed the front driveshaft, pulled off the sump and found lots of babbit. Fortunately, there was no other type of metal.

After pulling the DPF and fuel injectors, I was able to rotate the engine with a wrench and start inspecting the rod bearings. 3 of them looked brand new, one of them had very slight wear on it. Damn! That wouldn't be the cause of the knock. Since I was there I checked the valve lash and all were fine.

Now I'm almost certain that one of the main bearings is spun and the source of the babbit in the sump. I have a service manual on order and am wondering if I should run the engine one more time (with new oil & filter) in order to remove the front loader, or do you think the engine can be pulled with the front loader still attached? I have access to an engine hoist, or a neighbors tractor if need be. My other concern with one more run is damaging the crankshaft even more. I might end up having to get the crank machined anyways for thicker bearings, but I'm hoping not to have to do that and be able to use standard bearings.

I only get to go out to my land one day a week at most, so this will be a long process. I'll try my best to update this post as events unfold, but I'm anticipating several months of work before it is back together and running healthy again.

TLDR: Almost certainly a bad main bearing, should I run the engine one more time to remove the front loader, or try and remove the engine with the front loader still attached?

Thanks for reading
 

wdlanning

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L3750, L4310, B20, Genie Boom
Nov 7, 2016
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philadelphia pa
Don’t run because you may throw the rod or cause more damage. You can split the tractor with the fel on it. Got to drop the subframe so you must support it. Lots of bolts and hoses and inconvenience. I would give the crank bearings a careful look and measurement before I took it apart.
 
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SumoChas

New member

Equipment
MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
Don’t run because you may throw the rod or cause more damage. You can split the tractor with the fel on it. Got to drop the subframe so you must support it. Lots of bolts and hoses and inconvenience. I would give the crank bearings a careful look and measurement before I took it apart.
Fantastic, thanks for the feedback. I'll leave the FEL in place and begin tearing her apart.
 

SumoChas

New member

Equipment
MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
I decided to replace the one rod bearing that had a minor amount of wear on it, put in new oil and a new filter, and run the tractor again to see if I could better pin-point the knock, and also remove the Front end loader. Unfortunately, I was not able to identify the knock any better, but here's a video of it if anyone is curious.


The front end loader is now off the tractor since I had it running anyways and all the fluids are drained (Oil, Hydraulic, and coolant). A few more trips to the farm and I hope to have the engine out, on a pallet, and in the bed of my truck. Long term goal is to have this re-assembled by 2021. I'm very fortunate that I don't rely on this tractor for a living, otherwise this would be a much harder pill to swallow.
IMAG0731.jpg
 

SumoChas

New member

Equipment
MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
do you have insurance on it??
No mechanical insurance, only personal injury...It'll be a slow process but I think I'll be able to repair it. Unfortunately I'm still not sure which bearing actually failed. Another few weeks and I hope to have the engine out at least.
 

SumoChas

New member

Equipment
MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
Finally got back out to the tractor for some good tear down work. I don't have as many tools as I'd like out there so I have to pack some up everytime I go. Whadayaknow - two weeks ago I needed to pull the steering wheel off and had nothing even resembling a steering wheel puller. After trying to use a piece of steel under the wheel and the steering wheel lock screw to "jack" out the wheel with no luck, I knew that was a wasted day.

Fast forward to yesterday, I brought out a bearing puller and was able to get the wheel off. Splines AND tapered fit?! No wonder it was so difficult.

Moving on, Got the dash off, fuel tank drained and removed, all the covers and support plated removed. Also decided to remove the front end loader supports on both sides for a little bit easier access to the engine. My service manual doesn't have a loader attachment so they skipped that step, but it looks like life will be easier with them removed.

IMG_0338.jpg


I'm basically ready to split the tractor now and lift out the engine. Hopefully that will be done next weekend. Already have a makeshift engine stand and pallet so it can be loaded into my truck so I can take the engine to a place where I have more tools and a cleaner work environment.

IMG_0343.jpg


I do have a final question that maybe someone will be able to answer:

The service manual mentions setting the "Front Axle Rocking Restrictor" to the front axle. I didn't immediately see what they were referring to on my tractor. I see what it does, just acts as a jacking screw to keep the axle level, but didn't see if it was actually on my tractor or a special tool I was supposed to buy. I'll figure something out if it doesn't already come on my tractor.

Thanks for the help and I apologize for all the words and not many pictures.
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,710
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Austin, Texas
What you described is something to keep the front end from falling left or right about the pin between the frame and axle.

In other words the axle can pivot side to side (up and down) in respect to the tractor so one wheel can travel up or down to stay in contact with the ground. If you remove the stability of the rear end the engine wants to flop to the side so brace it to keep it vertical before splitting it.
 
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D2Cat

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L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
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Sumo, you can use a block of wood, like 1x2x4" long, or any size that fits snug. Use one one each side on the axle and up against the engine. Just needs to be in there so it doesn't fall out.
 

SumoChas

New member

Equipment
MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
Sumo, you can use a block of wood, like 1x2x4" long, or any size that fits snug. Use one one each side on the axle and up against the engine. Just needs to be in there so it doesn't fall out.
Great, Thanks D2
 

Tx Jim

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Apr 30, 2013
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Blocks of wood for stabilization should be placed between frt axle & frt support(frame) not engine
 
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Donystoy

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LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
Dec 10, 2013
504
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43
Binbrook, Ontario
Not sure what you have under your loader supports from first picture but since it is only on earth make sure it does not topple if it rains and softens the ground. Tough when you have to do this in a field. Should cover with a tarp and also use one on the ground to make finding parts easier. Good luck!
 
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SumoChas

New member

Equipment
MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
Not sure what you have under your loader supports from first picture but since it is only on earth make sure it does not topple if it rains and softens the ground. Tough when you have to do this in a field. Should cover with a tarp and also use one on the ground to make finding parts easier. Good luck!
Thanks Donystoy. I've got some cut cedar logs under each side of the loader supports which lead to the back half of the tractor. I know this is very shade-tree mechanic style, but I'm working with what I've got. When the tractor gets split (hopefully this coming weekend), I'll have a more permanent jackstand located under the HST and on a big plywood sheet to keep the rear of the tractor supported. I don't plan on moving the back half at all during this repair, and the amount of rock on my land should give a, not ideal, but decent base for supports.

Disassembly is the easy part, so we'll see how this whole process unfolds :)
 

Russell King

Well-known member

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L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Austin, Texas
What part of Texas are you in? I’m near Austin
 
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