Ran tractor out of oil, need to pull the engine

SumoChas

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MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
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Texas
Finally another update.

If you don't care about the rest: I was able to rebuild the engine, reinstall it in the tractor, and get it running! I didn't take any pictures since they are the same as before. Just scroll up backwards to see previous pics.

This project isn't quite over yet, but should be only one more visit out to the land to get the tractor driving again.

I was recommended a machine shop in San Antonio, TX (E&E Machine and Parts) to have the crankshaft turned down. Kubota offers 2 oversized bearings. E&E were able to get the journals cleaned up and stay right at the +.2mm which was needed for the first oversized bearing. They had the job done in one day right at the end of October. I replaced the ruined bearing carrier and plasti-gauged the main bearings. I was at the upper end of the clearance specified in the manual, but still within tolerances so away I went.

Getting parts was the biggest slow-down. It took over a month for me to receive one order on the gaskets and bearings I ended up needing. In that order I had forgotten to put in the other half of the thrust bearings so that turned into yet another order which took even more time.

In the end, I got everything I needed to start putting the tractor back together. No pics again since everything looks the same.

I hauled the engine from where I rebuilt it back out to my land right after Christmas. We had the same fantastic neighbor (who helped us remove the engine) drive his Kubota over and pull it out of my truck. Getting it re-installed in the front half was tricky due to my poorly designed lifting bracket and the uneven terrain. We ended up rolling the front half of the tractor into the engine instead of vice-versa. That made it much easier and then used the working tractor to help roll the assembled front half back into position.

The rest isn't much but reversing the processes of before: The two halves came together and then I spent another day getting everything hooked back up (electrical, hoses, fuel lines) and then filling it with fluids.

First fire up took forever because I didn't sufficiently bleed the fuel lines, but it did eventually start. I still need to re-bleed the fuel system even after running it.

I have one error code (P0204, I hope the injector connector might not be pushed in all the way) and one coolant leak (off the thermostat housing, easy fix).

Due to the engine code, the coolant leak, and also not having quite enough coolant to fill the radiator I didn't actually bring the engine up to temp or drive the tractor.

Next time out I'll replace the leaky gasket and hopefully find/fix the error code. Once that's done I'll be able to drive it around. If that checks out then the hood and front end loader will go back on and this project will be done!
 
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Lil Foot

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Thanks for the update.
 
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D2Cat

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Once you have the engine running, if all the fuel lines are tight, you should not have to do any more bleeding of fuel lines. They will push any small amount of air out when it first starts. That is why is sputters, coughs and finally runs. That first bit of rough whjile running a bit on each cylinder is the air being expelled.


Glad to see you got it all back together. Nice job. Patience is a virtue.
 
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Jim L.

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Jun 18, 2014
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Having a good neighbor - next trip maybe take a pecan pie or wrapper of brisket. Sounds like your neighbor is worth it.
 
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Nicfin36

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Very good to hear. Hope you get it 100% soon. I am glad all the hard work is paying off.
 
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Clint from Flint

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You are certainly a knowledgeable person with lots of patience. Congratulations on your successful job. Thumbs up to You(y)

Clint from Flint
 
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Henro

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Having a good neighbor - next trip maybe take a pecan pie or wrapper of brisket. Sounds like your neighbor is worth it.
My thoughts too!

Except I was thinking a couple cases of good beer...
... plus the pie! ;)
 
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SumoChas

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MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
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Texas
Once you have the engine running, if all the fuel lines are tight, you should not have to do any more bleeding of fuel lines. They will push any small amount of air out when it first starts. That is why is sputters, coughs and finally runs. That first bit of rough whjile running a bit on each cylinder is the air being expelled.


Glad to see you got it all back together. Nice job. Patience is a virtue.
Thanks for the info D2Cat. Subsequent fire-ups took quite a lot of cranking (which wasn't the case before, it used to fire right up on first crank) that I was blaming on air in the fuel system. Maybe my error code (P0204) might also be related to the numerous cranks needed to get the engine started?

Still some troubleshooting to be solved for sure.

Also to those reading, the fantastic neighbor got a few cases of beer for the help!
 

lugbolt

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P0204 is injector circuit issue, kubota calls it something else so you will want to research kubota's nomenclature

did u take the injectors out of the head? If you did, did you mark what cylinder they came from? They are all different and are considered cylinder specific.
 

SumoChas

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MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
P0204 is injector circuit issue, kubota calls it something else so you will want to research kubota's nomenclature

did u take the injectors out of the head? If you did, did you mark what cylinder they came from? They are all different and are considered cylinder specific.
Yes the injectors should be back in their same positions. I numbered them when they were removed and re-installed them in the same order. There is a chance I screwed it up but I don't think so. I'll double check that when I replace the thermostat housing gasket. Thank you!
 

SumoChas

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MX4800 HST
Aug 10, 2020
20
17
3
Texas
This will be my last update on this thread. Thanks everyone for reading and showing interest/support.

The Tractor is done! :)(y)

I had a chance to get out to the land today and finish up the last few remaining items. This delay was also waiting on one part (Thermostat housing gasket).

The P0204 code from before and long cranking to fire up were all because I didn't fully seat injector #2's electrical connector. OOPS! I'm all for easy fixes and was fortunate all I had to do was plug the connector in correctly.

I replaced the thermostat housing gasket, filled it up with coolant and went driving to bring it up to temp.

After a solid heat cycle, No leaks, and no check engine lights I knew it was set!

Installed the front drive shaft, Hood, and then the front end loader (what a mess this was*). It runs great and also starts on the first crank thanks to now having all 4 injectors instead of only 3 ;) It feels really good to have accomplished this huge project.

I'm guessing we saved at least $10,000 by doing this project ourselves. Parts total was right around $1,100 including the crankshaft machining. Labor was 5 months worth! Hah!

* I didn't realize that I had unloaded the FEL (Front end loader) on uneven terrain. Hooking this back up took almost an hour and a half. After multiple attempts to get it re-engaged, I ended up knocking one of the loader arm rams out of place and it got behind the loader arm support. Tough to describe the situation, but the end result was having the FEL sitting on the ground with the loader arms too low for me to drive the tractor under. Ended up using a car jack and an ATV jack and some cut cedar to lift the loader arms back up enough to then drive under, hook up the hydraulics, and undo my big screw-up.
 
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200mph

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Congrats! Glad to hear you’re back up and running.

Thanks for sharing.
 
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Lil Foot

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Congratulations on what had to be a huge project!
 
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GeoHorn

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We really need a PICTURE of it all back together ... or IT DIDN’T HAPPEN! 😂