I will be experimenting this weekend with my setup. I have a 10 foot long tractor with the FEL on, and a 10 foot long TSC 7000lb single axle utility trailer. We'll see if it'll fit or not, either way, I'll snap a pic or 2 for your amusement.
Picture of your tractor on your trailer
- Thread starter miketrock
- Start date
Magicman
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
This is how the M4900 made the ~445 mile trip home after buying it. The other picture is ready for a 46 mile trip to the Cabin for a couple of days work and grass mowing. That is only a 7K trailer so I am pushing the limit even though I replaced the 205/75R/15 tires with 225/75R/15, 10 ply rated tires. The bearings are still the same. 
Note that I have added outriggers to the back of the trailer.
Note that I have added outriggers to the back of the trailer.
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Think you quoted the wrong poster. Those boxes are on Crashmans tractor. Looks like the bxpanded toolboxes I think?
Magicman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"
It wasn't directed to me either but I have two ammo boxes attached to mine in addition to the factory box.
I do intend to relocate my SMV triangle because it interferes with my rear view mirror field of vision.
I do intend to relocate my SMV triangle because it interferes with my rear view mirror field of vision.
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For you guys with 16-20+ foot trailers, If not trailering a tractor with an implement on the back, Id suggest you consider BACKING the tractor onto the trailer, and chaining your lift-arms to/under the front rails of the trailer, then using the 3-pt lift to take a strain UP on the front rails. This will not only place the heaviest part of your tractor slightly fwd of the axles properly loading the tongue of the trailer, but it will also be safer loading/unloading and will better LOCK the tractor from moving on the trailer if a panic-stop should occur.
Dvan
New member
Equipment
Kubota L2501- LA525 Loader- RCR1260 Rotary mower- BB1260 Box Blade- RB1672 Blade
In my case I load it different just about every time. It depends on the attachments I need, the weigh and how they nest together.
I don't need to worry about my canopy blowing off so I can load in any direction. Some canopies are problematic towing and only allow one direction loading.
One suggestion I would make is to you guys with torsion axles. Get that trailer as level as possible. Without the leveler shackles that the typical spring setup has being out of level even a little bit on torsion axles will change the forces on the two axles a lot. I have seen a guy go through 2 tires on a simple 100 mile trip because of it.
Just remember for the guys with smaller tow rigs. There is towing capacity and then payload capacity. Two different things. My F-150 can tow 9000 lbs, but my max payload on the truck is 2,000 lbs. that means people, tools, supplies, tongue weight of the trailer cannot exceed 2,000 lbs. I think the rule of thumb for tongue weight is 10-15%? On a 10k load, a 13% tongue weight is 1300 lbs. that means I can only have 700 lbs of other stuff - people, tools, etc.
Anyways, just thought I’d share.
Anyways, just thought I’d share.
Im not out to be the safety police, but how does that pull? What you pulling it with?
My tractor is a BX2670. My trailer is a 20’ H&H hydraulic tilt deck. It works great for me. No ramps to lift & wrestle with. Easy to carry other items along with the tractor
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3/4 ton Chevy crew cab pick up. Pulls with no issue...large gas engine and tranny. The trailer is actually a 14,400 derated to 9,990 for taxes/highway use and no special license requirement. Out here, if you are over 10k you are supposed to get a upgraded DL...
That pic is actually of it before I built a rack for the front bucket to rest on/strap in to...
I spent about 4 hours figuring out where exactly to load it so that the rig sits flat. When I haul the tractor I use a weight adjusting/leveling hitch so the front wheels of the truck are properly weighted. I bought a tongue scale to get it just right.
Got ya. That other post it just looked like the back of the truck was squatting a good bit so I was thinking front of that truck gotta be pretty light. The bucket doesn’t get close to the bed when you turn sharp?
Nope...look at that tool box/ bucket rack I added...
None of those picks show it...but after the adjustment to the hitch set up...and load location...dead level...
There are very specific instructions as part of using a load leveling hitch...has a lot to do with keeping the correct amount of weight on the front tires. Takes a while...but works perfect.
The thing that amazes me...is all the idiots that tow trailers with load leveling hitches incorrectly set. The back of the trucks down, fronts up/unloaded...crazy and dangerous. If your going to pay 4-500 bucks for the hitch...at least use it correctly.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
There's 2 examples of my B2650 variously rigged, on a PJ Trailers 18 ft car hauler. 7K dual brakes. If anything I would upgrade to hinged ramps instead of the storage slots at the back. But all in all, its a great trailer, got for a very reasonable price new, and hauls behind my '06 Tacoma 4x4 just fine.
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My L3901 on an 18' C&B car hauler. Sure works nice. Even in nasty driving conditions. The GMC 2500 does fine.
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Magicman
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
M4900 Utility Special 4WD e/w FEL & 1530 John Deere "Traveling Man"